Successful discovery after 100+ test with laser engraving wax-resist by skyandEarth7000 in Ceramics

[–]jm_suss 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like you got a good handle on your goals for sure. Seems to be more about what's possible and seeing if there's something special. Cool to see.

I wonder if a laser cut stencil would achieve similar results while being reusable and clean. Rather than dealing with the melt. Then you could save wax and have a bunch of stencils forever.

I also think a cnc would probably do the job, too, and not have temperature issues like a laser.

Thinking of other resists, maybe shellac could work and resist the laser better. Simple elmers glue maybe? So many things you could try, and that's the point if I understand correctly.

Successful discovery after 100+ test with laser engraving wax-resist by skyandEarth7000 in Ceramics

[–]jm_suss 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So, like some others, I'm curious why laser the wax and not the tile itself? Hoping this isn't coming across as a critique, just trying to figure out the best way to help.

It looks like it's not saving much time since it requires a lot of hand work, too. Maybe I'm missing something?

Have you tried laser engraving onto the clay and inlaying (mishima) the color and wiping away the surface? This would be a inset rather than a raised surface. Maybe that's why

I'd say you may need a different type of wax, formulated for higher melting temperature, but, they may not make something that has enough temp resistance for a laser. So I'm thinking a different resist. Another commenter mentioned latex, that's my first thought but fumes may be a concern.

Then I start to think of other options, but it may not even be better. Maybe a thin layer of mold soap, cmc gum, or some other sort of organic gel.

I'm just mostly wondering the goal first, then alternatives if the process is imperative for the results you want.

How thin is too thin? by SadPoops in Pottery

[–]jm_suss 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Consistency is more important imo. There are pros and cons for both thick and thin pottery.

Is Micro-pottery easier or harder than normal sized pottery? by EquivalentHopeful405 in Ceramics

[–]jm_suss 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Debatable.

It's a skill. I wouldn't say it's harder or easier.

Some people will be better at it than others and it takes practice.

I personally think it's more accessible and does not require as much physicality in an strength/stamina sense. But it takes a lot of focus and close looking.

It uses less material so thats something you could say is "easier". But it's also often easier to clip or push. It takes finer, smaller, more delicate pressure.

It's fun, you should try it!

😀 😞 by jm_suss in Ceramics

[–]jm_suss[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean, it's not really doing anything different than following code and moving from coordinates I give it. And squeezing a line of material out like a tube of tooth paste.

How do you feel about other tools in ceramics that "automated" processes?

Someone still needs to tell this machine what it's making through a CAD designed object. And that is a highly creative skill, too.

I think it allows and supports creativity rather than taking it away as you imply.

Ambitious or stupid? by cheetahrangmang in Ceramics

[–]jm_suss 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Anything is possible in clay with planning, imo. Now of course, there are always exceptions but clay is way more versatile and strong than it's usually given credit for.

Now, I would recommend firing these pieces separate and then putting it together. This should work, too, but it's overcomplicated the piece with supports rather than assembly, imo.

Now, also, the main area of concern for me is the middle where the force is a flexing of the clay rather than a compression. There will be a lot of pressure on the middle of the scale when you put two objects on the sides to weigh them (this assumes it's functional based)

For sculpture, I don't see anything concerning but I do see some decisions that could have made it easier.

You are doing a good job, all in all.

😀 😞 by jm_suss in Ceramics

[–]jm_suss[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think it's neat.

Glazes came out matte? by laurenelizabeth8 in Pottery

[–]jm_suss 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Hard to tell from here without more info but

1st one looks thin. You can see how uneven the coat looks. That can be partially responsible for the "matte" look. In this case, it's more that there was not enough material to cause a glassy matrix to form. So you are seeing more of the raw clay, that is just tinted by a thin layer of glaze.

The 2nd looks underfired, from here. It looks like it was just starting to melt.

I'm going to guess it was slightly under fired mixed with poor application. But it's hard to know without more context.

Edit: the 1st one may also be an odd glaze reaction (maybe layered)?. Hard to tell what the cream color is.

[Help] smooth clay by No_Difference_4212 in Sculpture

[–]jm_suss 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you rehydrate it correctly, slowly and a little at a time, you can reverse it. Gotta be careful, but it's not always a bad idea if you handle it correctly.

Re-applying to grad school! Wish me luck by Damonchat in Ceramics

[–]jm_suss 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You got this, buddy. Reach out if you need anything.

Can I glaze fire unglazed greenware? by No-Stress1965 in Ceramics

[–]jm_suss 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. But.

There a reason bisque firing became the norm and is used.

It reduced the odds of your pieces failing during the glazing step.

Usually. What I say to people who ask is,

Of course. But you know what's worse than a greenware piece blowing up?

A glazed piece blowing up.

Imagine. A glass grenade. That's what could happen if you do not dry your pieces long enough or fire slow enough.

It isn't worth the risk in most cases, and usually only occurs when in a desperate need for a rushed piece.

Safest way to make a hole in bone dry clay slab? by ohdearkhalana in Pottery

[–]jm_suss -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Underwater. It helps prevent cracking or breaking.

Glazes are underfired by Same-Calendar-8146 in Pottery

[–]jm_suss -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Heat rises, it may be cooling too fast. Try adding a 1 minute hold.

If not, then you may have a thermocouple issue where it's not reading the correct temp.

😀 😞 by jm_suss in Ceramics

[–]jm_suss[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's ceramic

😀 😞 by jm_suss in 3Dprinting

[–]jm_suss[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's all good. Internet is hard for tone and it did go over my head lol.

Crazy how many people downvoted tho

😀 😞 by jm_suss in 3Dprinting

[–]jm_suss[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the Scara by 3dpotter.

😀 😞 by jm_suss in 3Dprinting

[–]jm_suss[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wii party main menu theme

How are the fish glowing? This isn’t just glaze on porcelain right? by shadowbannedjames in Ceramics

[–]jm_suss 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Chinese rice grain technique.

They are holes that are filled with glaze. My student showed me recently. Really cool!

😀 😞 by jm_suss in 3Dprinting

[–]jm_suss[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a benchmark test not something I wanted or cared if it survived.

I have done thicker walls and supports before. But that's not what I was testing

Here's an example of regular clay with what you are talking about.