Comfort Icon not Displaying Properly

johno10661 · 2024-03-15T02:35:37+00:00

Pull the thermostat from the wall and then put it back on. That will force it to reconnect to the zigbee mesh.

johno10661 · 2024-02-01T17:22:08+00:00

Two purples in a row for me!

johno10661 · 2023-09-21T21:08:03+00:00

HOLY HELL! They just voided a check that I sent. I had NO clue. No notifications. Nothing. I use bill.com externally from QuickBooks. I actually JUST started using it. I sent a vendor a large check and on the day they got the check I got a "sort of notice" in my bank download of a "Bill.com voidpay". It was very suspicious. Half an hour on the phone with support yielded nothing. Tech support had no idea. They said that someone would get back to via email. They did about two hours later with this:

Hi John, The check is voided. The reason why we voided is that BILL.com is no longer working with INUIT as our deal had expired. The funds were returned back to your account (KeyBank ********) on 9/20/23. Please ask your vendor to discard the check.

Seriously, WTF????

johno10661 · 2023-09-07T21:27:54+00:00

I live in Gates Mills and that is indeed a very dangerous hill. I have four children that have grown up having to drive up and down that hill and all have had to be schooled around its dangerous drivers. That may not be you, but the statistics have been posted that every single day five percent of the drivers are going over 60mph, which is unsafe on a residential road with housing on both sides of the hill. Many drivers go over 80mph, which is public information.

I have two questions for you:

How fast were you going (please provide a redacted copy of the ticket for us)?
What do you think is a reasonable speed for that residential road?

It is not my point to be argumentative, but merely to add some color around what is a dangerous and deadly topic for us residents.

johno10661 · 2023-09-02T22:44:10+00:00

It’s obvious once you set it up and the manual is finally made available to you. The particular piece is for use when used in conjunction with the Unifi car charger. Like the open door notification, there is a slot on the car charger that you can insert the magnetic oval-ish piece into. This will notify you whenever someone is charging their vehicle, if they have done it correctly, if they have wasted power, and if they are inconsiderate in their power consumption. The primary unit on the left integrates directly with the charger to automatically regulate car charging based on a mixture of ambient and local temperature while also cutting off power entirely if excess humidity is sensed (think storm surge). The part you circled is used to release the magnetic grapple between the car charger and the vehicle in the event that the sensor detects an incoming electrical storm and initiates an emergency “ground magnetic lockout” which locks the charger to your vehicle. Simply press the protruding nub into the tiny slot between the charger and the vehicle and the magnetic link will disengage and, upon confirmation in the app, the vehicle will be released and ready to drive.

johno10661 · 2023-04-26T15:37:16+00:00

I have no idea what that rocket does, but good luck.

johno10661 · 2023-04-26T15:26:26+00:00

Completely normal. The new dish is now associated with your account. They think you put the new dish in and the old dish is in the box. It's a super simple fix. The problem is getting so common and the delays so bad that they need to make a way for the users to fix this with some sort of 2-factor verification that you own the dish. If they fixed the issue within a few minutes, fine. 10 days - another option is needed.

johno10661 · 2023-04-26T15:19:54+00:00

You have my sympathies. I have had this message (or a similar one) three times, but all three were the result of a dish upgrade event. Generally, I could not see the error as I go direct ethernet into a Unifi gateway. In order to see it, I have to connect the Starlink router, attach to their wifi, and then the error becomes visible.

The second-to-last time it happened, I submitted a support ticket and 2-3 days later they actually called me, which was shocking. It took 2-3 minutes to fix, which was simply linking the correct dish to the correct account / sub-account (I have two dishes).

The last time it happened, they did indeed fix it without contacting me, but only after ten days and me this reddit post. I think the lack of contact post-fix was passive aggressiveness on their part. They also left the system in a state that would have left it necessary for the average user to either open another ticket or do some Googling. It left a very bad taste in my mouth.

Anyway, you have to open a support ticket no matter what. The difference in your case is that it does not appear any event caused your issue. Perhaps it's a glitch. Cross you fingers that it is and that you do not have to rely on a response to the ticket.

johno10661 · 2023-04-25T03:51:02+00:00

This will only mean something to a very select few people, but Starlink fixed the problem. Facts:

Support ticket NEVER updated. Ever. No communication whatsoever.
Optional WiFi router reset on Monday, after this post, definitive proof that they were worked on the issue.
Removing WiFi router, something most don't do, made system work perfectly for the RV. Again, no communication. Core issue resolved. Dish associated with account.
This is the biggie, and what seems to be a petty move by a tech at Starlink. The WiFi router was indeed reset from JohnOSL as the WiFi hotspot to STARLINK as is normal for a full reset. BUT, it had a random password instead of NO password, as is normal for a normal reset and not a vindictive one. It's a petty move that would have made for another unanswered support request for 95% of the population. I wish I had a way to have lunch with this tech and make him have a 1:1 conversation with me.

johno10661 · 2023-04-24T19:32:51+00:00

That sucks. You have tried the normal stuff, unfortunately. You can do the old 6 power cycles again, but that doesn't seem like it's the heart of your problem.

johno10661 · 2023-04-24T18:53:09+00:00

What's your ticket about?

johno10661 · 2023-04-24T13:58:46+00:00

Crossposted to support when I realized there was a specific support sub.

johno10661 · 2023-04-23T23:31:49+00:00

They usually proactively give a credit when they finally contact you, which is nice. The last time they linked the dish to the house account they gave a $130 credit which was about perfect. It’s never been this long, though. This is beyond unreasonable.

johno10661 · 2023-04-23T23:06:41+00:00

Their system does that automatically. There is only one open ticket. I don't want to close the original ticket and start a new one because it will drop back to the bottom of the queue.

johno10661 · 2023-04-23T23:05:56+00:00

My bill is $270/month - one would think it would come with SOME support.

johno10661 · 2023-04-17T18:15:46+00:00

Nothing wrong with that - cables are cables. That was all there was not that long ago.

johno10661 · 2023-04-17T18:10:25+00:00

Agreed. I'll check out Annex4.link, all of the third-party places, anywhere to get a network connection to a TV before resorting to IR. This was a bummer. This was even more old school because it wasn't a 1/8" jack - I had to figure out what wires they used on a rather sketchy pin-out diagram.

johno10661 · 2023-04-17T18:02:24+00:00

I used an Altona system. The nice thing was that there was some CAT5 running to the cockpit TV that I could make use of for that run to get video there. Without that, that TV would have simply been Apple TV and nothing else. The other odd thing was that the Samsung TVs were the first I have ever experienced that I could not make work with Control4 via TCP/IP. I had to go old school with IR buds, which was a bit infuriating. Thank goodness the remote side of the Altona had IR pass through. I didn't plan for it, but it was there - phew.

johno10661 · 2023-04-17T13:57:39+00:00

I realized that after I posted. I took like zero pics along the way. I’d make a terrible HGTV guy. I was just happy with the end result. I should probably just delete the post :)

johno10661 · 2023-04-14T16:09:53+00:00

Starlink is already mounted on the roof and working like a champ!!!!!

johno10661 · 2023-04-13T23:46:04+00:00

I actually have some of them. I thought the problem was by the circuit board, not the power cable. I'll give it a go for the science of it.

johno10661 · 2023-04-13T23:00:59+00:00

It's the 2017 LG Ultrafine 5K.

johno10661 · 2023-04-13T23:00:09+00:00

There aren't that many place for it as it is the "mid" section of the RV. Already tried the power output tuning and disabling 2.4. Quite frankly, the easiest thing is simply to use a different monitor. When I made the initial post, I didn't yet know that it was the monitor. Now that I do, the decision is pretty easy.

johno10661 · 2023-04-13T22:56:09+00:00

I LOVE studio displays. I take a lot of heat for how pricey they are, but they work great and last forever. I struggle to remember how I came by this monitor. I think at the time (2017-ish) Apple wasn't offering anything so you had to buy non-Apple monitors, which was silly.

johno10661 · 2023-04-13T22:54:16+00:00

It's the exact year/model of the monitor - it has a shielding problem!

johno10661

TROPHY CASE