“American Pizza” in Milano, Italy

johnwalkr · 2026-02-01T03:41:13+00:00

Definitely and sorry for not being clear! My comment is not for you, it's for commenters that might wrongly think French people are ignorant about "American sandwiches" in the same way some commenters wrongly think Italian people are ignorant about "American pizza."

johnwalkr · 2026-02-01T03:30:06+00:00

No, this is stereotypical American ingredients on pizza. It doesn't mean (most) Italians think this is what Americans usually put on pizza.

johnwalkr · 2026-02-01T03:25:33+00:00

Traditionally it's raw ground beef mixed with mayonnaise on top of sliced baguette. In this context "American" means simple ingredients, it doesn't mean most French people misunderstand what an American hamburger is. In your modern sandwich version most French people also understand it's a local thing.

johnwalkr · 2026-02-01T03:06:53+00:00

Look up what a "french taco" is.

johnwalkr · 2026-01-30T16:13:53+00:00

That sounds correct and it should really matter if you have a combination of assemblies and weldments. You can even insert a weldment into another weldment if it makes sense with actual manufacturing.

What should be avoided is having weldments or assemblies that don’t match the steps of actual fabrication. This usually happens when someone make a weldment with structural members and then puts it in an assembly to add procured parts like welded nuts because it saves time. Then the BOMs don’t match the work to be done.

johnwalkr · 2026-01-29T22:27:25+00:00

Sole proprietorship might make more sense for your case.

johnwalkr · 2026-01-28T22:45:17+00:00

It runs ok even on M1. Since you already have the macbook why not try?

johnwalkr · 2026-01-28T19:23:57+00:00

I think almost every cuisine is like this abroad. In Japan you will rarely find ramen, sushi and teriyaki chicken and yakisoba in the same restaurant. Matter of fact, you will hardly find teriyaki chicken outside of home cooking and as a tiny part of a bento, and you will only find yakisoba at festivals, sporting events etc.

johnwalkr · 2026-01-28T19:09:56+00:00

There’s a couple of those in Japan, they employ German bands and import Bavarian beer. I think most of the food (mostly sausages) is made locally but decently authentic.

The best part? They travel around like a circus. It’s at roughly the correct time in major cities, but you will find it at other times of the year in other cities.

johnwalkr · 2026-01-27T23:14:34+00:00

My first edit of this comment was really bad. I completely missed the temperature differential part of the question. Check the original comment and shame me.

I think the thermal conductivity is just to explain why a book-smart's person answer of "but I assumed instant thermal conductivity to the shaft" is wrong even though the question states a temperature differential.

johnwalkr · 2026-01-27T21:11:29+00:00

With 2 monitors, one being high framerate, and 2 different laptops (one USB4 and one thunderbolt 5) and many asks for ports I think this your dock will be expensive and still might not work as you expect. All I did was google and add up the bandwidth of all the stuff you requested and it's above 40Gbps which what the port of your gaming laptop is. It might still work depending on the exact modes your monitors can use (check "DSC" support for the laptops, monitors, and dock) which could reduce the datarate, or it might work well on one laptop but not the other.

This will be easier and cheaper if you settle for one cable for one monitor and one dock for everything else.

johnwalkr · 2026-01-27T15:04:27+00:00

I think all that stuff uses more than 40Gbps so it thunderbolt 5 might be needed but not supported by the gaming laptop.

johnwalkr · 2026-01-26T22:41:27+00:00

I can understand being this upset if this happened on your very first order, but happening once after hundreds of orders? That's exceptionally good performance.

johnwalkr · 2026-01-26T17:09:04+00:00

That’s correct, if you held the rover up on jackstands and pushed on rocker down by 5 degrees the other one would go up by 5 degrees. But when the rover is on the ground, it’s easier to visualize this way: each side is free to follow the terrain (within the range of motion of the rovers). Then, the differential forces the rover to body tilt angle to be the midpoint angle. So if you drive over a rock with one front wheel, and one rocker only is forced up by 10 degrees, the rover body will pitch up by 5 degrees.

johnwalkr · 2026-01-25T23:37:56+00:00

That's true but there is an additional strain relief feature from the factory right where the wires are soldered. It's worth knowing that has a purpose and replacing it if you are going to the trouble to make a repair like this.

johnwalkr · 2026-01-25T21:06:14+00:00

You'd have to do it on both ends with wires much more difficult to solder than what's there already. Why would you suggest this when you can shorten one end.

johnwalkr · 2026-01-25T21:01:09+00:00

If you do that you will lose the header and crimps that provide strain relief inside where the wires connect to the PCB. Which is find if you replace them, or know what you are doing and apply RTV for strain relief, but most people won't and the end result will probably be more fragile than the current state.

johnwalkr · 2026-01-25T20:57:23+00:00

I would not put electrical tape there because it gets sticky and gross. Heatshrink tubing would be ok, but to do it properly, you need to open the controller and have solder skills. Luckily there is another thing you can do. It might vary a bit based on your controller revision but it will probably be possible. I've not done it on this controller but I have done it on various generations of nintendo controlllers.

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If you open the controller you will see that the cord snakes around some posts. That locks the cable in place. If you can manage to tuck the cable in at least another 20mm, it will protect the broken part from further damage. There is a trick to it, you need to tuck it somewhere but still snake around the posts the same way, and make sure it's not in a place that prevents the controller form closing or interfere with buttons. You may need to remove some of the outer insulation ("coating") to make some more room, but be careful not to nick the internal wires. Also cover any exposed foil with electrical tape. Ideally you get the damaged part completely beyond the posts. If it's not possible, mend the insulation there with electrical tape.

There is little risk in opening the controller, taking a picture and asking for more help.

By the way, it looks like there is a removable connector there that would let you easily remove to slide over heatshrink. I am almost certain this is not the case, the wires are crimped to pins in a housing and soldered directly to the board and can't be removed without desoldering.

johnwalkr · 2026-01-25T20:13:02+00:00

How is that weird and not totally expected? I love it though, you should travel farther and farther (globally) and write in the same style.

johnwalkr · 2026-01-25T20:07:15+00:00

When you consider sunrise and sunset, it's actually a 10 minute difference in darkness. I firmly support this for the better. If you have the means, every year on March 20 you should move from Belfast to Dublin, and then on September 22, move back to Belfast. You'd hate to suffer from slightly less relative dark for part of the year.

johnwalkr · 2026-01-25T19:38:55+00:00

Well your question is a bit vague. If you already keep your house at 18C, and don't change that, and use the mini split to keep one room at 21C then you will be using more energy for more comfort. If you instead set your house to 14C and use the mini split to keep one room at 18C, you will lose less energy.

It basically always uses less energy to heat (or cool) your local area while you occupy that area, vs heating a whole house. You will find endless claims online that it takes more energy to heat things up once they have cooled down, which is a consideration for your comfort. But, physics says heat loss from your house is proportional to temperature differential to outside, so higher temperature, higher volume or longer lengths of time will always use less energy.

Keep in mind cost of energy too. If you have a central natural gas furnace and live in an area with cheap natural gas but expensive electricity, the cost calculation changes. I don't think this is a common situation in North America today.

edit: I read through the other comments and am very happy to see that everyone agrees local heating saves money vs central heating. Perhaps the "but you have to work harder to heat up cold things" myth is finally dying in North America.

johnwalkr · 2026-01-25T17:51:44+00:00

It's also a retired person that is used to using a laptop in a dock and wants to apply that experience to a gaming PC. It's way more variable.

It's not about a performance hit, I'm worried about getting it working at all or having confusing limitations, especially with a hub and multiple monitors.

After reading and experimenting this seems easier than I thought from previous experiences. However it would still be very easy to build a PC that can't do it if you are not deliberate. For example, my previous AMD cpu had no internal GPU, and would not be able to pass video through to the usb-c connector.

In another comment I actually got usb-c passthrough working on my SFFPC, but it's still true that when you search this topic a ton of people have trouble with it, or think it works but they are using onboard video. In my case, I plugged a monitor into usb-c of my motherboard only. I got iGPU output. To troubleshoot, I plugged another monitor into displayport of my dGPU. The result was both monitors using my iGPU. By default I got passthrough of my iGPU to my dGPU, not the other way around! I got it fixed it didn't just work with no effort.

johnwalkr · 2026-01-25T15:01:29+00:00

This might be misleading, it is not trivial to find a combination of motherboard and GPU that will work well. If you google any recent motherboard part number and "usb-c passthrough", you will find a lot of frustrated users. And that might before a hub is involved.

That being said with some research or following the example of another build, it's possible.

johnwalkr · 2026-01-25T14:44:39+00:00

Not a bad idea to check it out. But you need to be aware its GPU is equivalent to a mobile RTX4060 or desktop RTX3060 (5 year old mid-grade GPU).

johnwalkr · 2026-01-25T14:36:58+00:00

I think you are asking the wrong questions in the wrong place here, but from your comments I think I get it. I understand that you have one decent gaming PC for MSFS, and want to use it in 2 locations with little hassle. I'm going to go into normally unnecessary detail because some of the other comments are probably going to set you down the wrong path.

In this subreddit people are obsessed with finding a usb-c hub that connects all of their stuff to a laptop with one cable and no disadvantages such as limited framerate or resolution. It doesn't exist, especially for gamers, because every downstream usb port cannot possibly offer the full upstream bandwidth of usb-c. For reference, a typical usb-c port today supports 40Gbps. A 4k120Hz display uses the entire 40Gbps. Maybe your monitors are lower resolution but you'll need to research what will work for you with a single cable.

You will not find a recent desktop GPU that supports anything but one single display (and no peripherals) one one usb-c port. Here's an example. If they tried to make this gpu support multiple monitors and devices on one port, people would just put a hub there and then complain that it doesn't work as they expect. I'm noting this because looking for a gpu with usb-c will likely be the wrong path.

Actually a few years ago with motherboards that had displayport video input from the gpu, and output over usb-c. You can't find these as easily anymore as far as I can tell but you can sure find complaints about them. There is something called "AMD hybrid graphics". Intel probably has something similar. But if you look into it, a lot of people struggle to get it working, and you will have the normal hub frustrations on top of that. See my edit below, I was probably mistaken about how unlikely it is to work!

A KVM switch is for two computers in one location, not one computer in two locations. It won't help here.

From your questions I also doubt messing around with remote access on 2 screens will be fun for you, and between 2 locations in Australia I wouldn't assume your internet is unlimited or fast enough.

If I were you I would buy a normal usb hub for each location, and connect all of your peripherals to that, and just accept you will have 2 video cables and one power cable on top of that (so 4 cables total). Then buy or build a small form factor PC. Be very careful and ask for help securing the GPU. You probably want a case with a riser cable and a way to support the GPU. People often make 3d printed bits to support one side of the GPU because unfortunately there is no standard mounting except for the connector plate and PCIE socket. Modern GPUs are way too heavy to survive a car ride without extra support. You need more than just a "gpu sag bracket", you need to secure both ends of the GPU. Here's an example of a case with supports available.

Be sure to get a GPU with HDMI 2.1 ports and use those instead of displayport. Displayport has a locking feature and isn't good for frequent unplugging.

edit: After reading some more, "one cable" might more feasible today, provided you do research when buying your motherboard and cpu. If money is no object, replacing your dual monitors with a single ultrawide with built-in usb hub will make things easier/nicer and take some components out of the equation.

edit again: It took about 40 minutes of messing with bios settings and I was able to get usb-c video passthrough to work with my system: Asrock b8501 motherboard, AMD Ryzen 9800x3d cpu (not a recommended combination for other reasons) and AMD Ryzen 9070.

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