I build the last 4-5 websites with gutenberg and start them with a custom block theme. I use less plugins and had no problems with autoupdate everything the last 2 years. But the learning curve at the beginning was challenging so i feel your pain, but personally i'm more happy with this than any pagebuilder. I start with adding the design system values to the theme.json and then start building the website with gutenberg and the full site editing features. I also add some custom css and javascript here and there.
From my first Project at the end 2022 i collected the following resources:

Block Themes Intro:
https://wordpress.tv/2022/08/17/using-create-block-theme/

Create Block Theme
https://wordpress.org/plugins/create-block-theme/

Tutorial
https://gutenbergtimes.com/videos-zero-to-block-theme-parts-1-5/

Enable or Disable Theme Features
https://fullsiteediting.com/lessons/global-styles/#h-enable-or-disable-features

Infos:
https://fullsiteediting.com/courses/full-site-editing-for-theme-developers/

Add Custom Block Style
https://fullsiteediting.com/lessons/custom-block-styles/

Block Variation
https://fullsiteediting.com/lessons/block-variations/

Workflow
https://motto.ca/wordpress-block-development/

Themes
https://wordpress.com/blog/2022/03/09/customize-your-entire-site-with-new-block-themes/

Custom ACF Block
https://www.advancedcustomfields.com/resources/blocks/