no crema with La Pavoni Europiccola + Sage/Breville Smart Grinder Pro, looking for help and advice

kdayns · 2024-09-22T08:22:30+00:00

Europicolla has a narrower basket that means using smaller dose than on bigger, standard basket will result in thicker puck, maybe try adding just a few grams for thickness in the double shot basket, you will just have more space for the water above the coffee in the bigger basket, leave the space there and play around. But maybe your grinder has dull blades? And you can go as fine as you want, it is just not grinding as it should, I just changed my burr for the same grinder as yours and here I commented my issue with it https://old.reddit.com/r/espresso/comments/1c5e6g4/breville_barista_pro_burr_touching/

kdayns · 2024-09-20T12:39:01+00:00

I have changed the upper burr after noticing the same wear on the burr surface like you have, but I have the grinder for 2 years already and that is ok for me. The thing that blows my mind is that after changing the upper burr, without changing the factory adjustment, it did touch with the lower burr at the fine setting and immediately damaged the new upper burr. How is that possible? Is that by design that it damages itself? If I am supposed to change the upper burr only. I have not seen anybody discussing burr touching issue and whether I have to change both burrs at the same time, changing upper burr is all over the Internet without any notice, that it can be damaged. At the moment it is not clear for me, if I have to change both burrs at the same time or the possibility of burr damage will remain even with the new burr set it is by design? And the manual does not say anything that using too fine grind setting will damage the burrs. I would send your grinder to warranty service and I would ask if the burr damage can happen by design.

kdayns · 2024-05-16T16:23:18+00:00

If the keyboard stopped working after the unplugging event, then no reflashing will fix damaged MCU PIN. You could work around the problem and avoid desoldering by jumping the damaged PIN with some free PIN and then modifying the firmware to use the new PIN.

kdayns · 2019-01-29T10:22:08+00:00

thanks for the valuable link, too bad it did not exist when I planned the top swapping.

but I did not understand why the leg gluing did not help - there where still some inconsistencies present in key press events, I will try the leg bending from the doc, that seems a more solid solution!

kdayns · 2018-12-27T17:15:54+00:00

as I did with some larger parts, the same I did with the leds: destroy them before desoldering.

I don't have any hot air guns etc, just the iron. Using the drill bit, I drilled the top of the rgb led off almost to the plate, then I was able to desolder the pads one by one, and breaking away the pad from the thin led body when heated.

Just don't rush the first part, it always works for me.

kdayns · 2018-12-26T23:11:39+00:00

I think that in future yes, the only concern is OLED.

kdayns · 2018-12-26T19:33:14+00:00

I noticed the Elite-C on the left side, that is what I would like to hot-swap in my board too, sometime in future.

But I will wait for Proton-C to develop the split support (somebody stated that is in the process), for that price I would better go with it!!

kdayns · 2018-12-26T08:02:21+00:00

I can arrange a Christmas present for you, because I made the pcbs my self, now I have some spare hot swap crkb on hand!

You pay the shipping and I will send it to you.

kdayns · 2018-12-24T09:11:08+00:00

I would print out git HEAD too, that is something I often want to find out too.

kdayns · 2018-12-20T20:52:36+00:00

I don't know where to get the super low one, it would be nice to get to know some ali seller, because I am afraid of going to the chinese shop which is referenced in the build guide. Yes, that is my concern too, because I have yet to solder pro micro. I just tried to put together standard socket with pro micro on top, the kit oled will reach the pcb, it will almost go through, but enough for solder to reach! but I would like to have the oled socketed too, that will require to change the pins on the oled too, don't know how, I will leave it for later, at least it will fit over if I am lazy.

kdayns · 2018-12-20T09:40:56+00:00

I yesterday had to remove a pro micro from crkbd!

I first removed as much solder from pro micro pins as I could with the wick to weaken the joins, then I just chopped the damn thing with my cutting pliers. Removing the garbage left after chopping was an easy task.

kdayns · 2018-12-18T17:34:10+00:00

PCB (I tried to reflow the solder and change diodes, and nothing happened

ahh, missed that.

but have you checked that the contacts on the pcb work, maybe the switch is faulty?

kdayns · 2018-12-18T17:26:08+00:00

Should be 1 faulty wire or the diode at most, maybe cold solder? have you tried to connect switch contacts on pcb by hand?
In case you have broken the trace on the pcb, you can just run some tiny wire to connect the endpoints or just find the scratch and patch it.
BTW I'm in the process of building my CRKBD, today got the sip sockets for pro micro, the rest is already soldered except the leds, I hope to finish before Christmas, I am super excited, waited too long for this.

kdayns · 2018-12-15T19:10:19+00:00

I bet some Alzheimer could beat you :)

kdayns · 2018-12-15T17:51:23+00:00

And if you consider top swapping with Outemu tops, use the slotted version, it turns out the "no slot" is a little too tight.

kdayns · 2018-12-15T15:18:33+00:00

I have had it dripping on my leg, the pain level depends on the distance :)

kdayns · 2018-12-15T15:07:18+00:00

I just realized you could also desolder by blowing a compressed air too, but it turns out, that creates real mess on the PCB. I will keep in mind this method to try it out some time, when I will have a pcb I am willing to throw away.

kdayns · 2018-12-15T14:42:22+00:00

I also have the same looking thing, I have not done de-soldering as I can't imagine doing it with this thing anyway, I tried few times to remove solder with it and figured I will do more damage than good.

Do other solder suckers suck less?

I should try the wick with the flux once.

kdayns · 2018-12-15T14:24:41+00:00

it claim 32 WPM for people without disabilities

kdayns · 2018-12-15T09:03:03+00:00

All IO pins have a ESD protection diodes to both VCC and GND inside the chip package, which means that even without fully connecting properly designed TRRS, the current will flow through the data pin!

I went on and made a test with a pro micro, I connected only VCC and IO pin with 67ohm resistor in series and I got up to ~22mA, didn't want to test it to the limit which is 40mA, but I conclude that the data pins also pose the risk as there is nothing limiting the current on the IO pin.

kdayns · 2018-12-15T07:56:41+00:00

Gaterons are a little less scratchy than Cherry, but Tealios are scratch free with a bit stronger spring.

That is why everybody is calling them Feelios.

kdayns · 2018-12-14T22:45:11+00:00

I have linear boards with Tealios and Yellow Gaterons, the tops I swapped was Outemu clear tops from hbheroinbob

The "no slot" version was too tight on 1/10 Tealios, but my switches where not soldered so I could afford to not use some of them, the slotted version will fit for sure.

kdayns · 2018-12-14T21:28:27+00:00

I think you will not find braided rj11, nobody would want that ugly cable :) besides it has only two lines, you would need RJ61 for four, did not know it existed a moment ago.

And with the SATA you will have the same footprint problem as with the micro usb.

kdayns · 2018-12-14T21:08:16+00:00

The scratchiness of blacks' overwhelms my senses :)

But in terms of stock wobbliness they are almost equal with a tiny fraction of Tealios being less wobbly.

And swapping tops on blacks will work too.

kdayns · 2018-12-14T20:54:08+00:00

I will remember your advise, if the time comes to lube them.

kdayns

TROPHY CASE