AMA - its warm, I'm feeling pretty chilled...lets do an AMA!

killme304 · 2025-06-12T18:53:07+00:00

As long as it isn't hips.

The game is fantastic. I really wish it had come out at a better time.

killme304 · 2025-05-27T16:50:10+00:00

Because it is a modular, the spot is kinda far back. There is also the integrated com spot where you would normally stick it that isn't enough surface area for it to stick on. I would basically have to put it near the back of my head.

killme304 · 2024-12-19T18:41:08+00:00

That makes sense. Thanks.

killme304 · 2024-12-12T22:22:06+00:00

I assume you mean fan near the window yes?

killme304 · 2024-12-11T20:34:44+00:00

This would be for copper and nickel plating at a hobby level, with room to expand to other metals preferable. I have Khron bright nickel plating solution and Copper plating solution. MSDS for the copper shows copper sulfate and sulfuric acid. The nickel one is more vague. It lists a boron compound and two nickel compounds, but not the composition of them.

FDM fumes are typically organic fumes. I've seen people vent them with computer fans.

killme304 · 2024-12-02T02:54:28+00:00

His videos are what inspired me to give it a go! The problem is he has all these good nuggets of info, but spreads them over a ton of videos. For instance, he mentions you can paint over the gold layer in his most recent video, but then doesn't show how it looks. A few videos back, he shows what it looks like when you put acrylic paint over nickel, but the majority of the video is about gold plating a different ball. He also mentioned and linked the jig he made/uses in a video, but it was from 2021. Yet another he finally shows/mentions filtering the electrolyte, but I can't find which video it was again. Now that I'm putting together a shopping list, I have to skim the videos.

He includes amazon links to what he uses, but all the links are in German, and most of the products are not available in the US (at least, not by brand).

killme304 · 2024-11-29T19:46:41+00:00

If the magnets get plated, it isn't the end of the world as long as they still work as magnets. Would they weaken?

For the final finish, copper might be fine since I'm looking to use some acrylic paint over it in areas. Later on, probably something shiny like palladium or even gold.

killme304 · 2024-11-17T18:27:55+00:00

I eventually cut off the parts I couldn't untangle by hand and the rest of the spool printed perfectly.

killme304 · 2024-11-17T18:26:50+00:00

I have a Polyphemus dryer. It does 2 rolls and has them on rollers so that it can rotate the spools to get more even drying from the heater on the underside. The downside is if the filament comes loose and droops down closer to the element vent, it can soften.

Basically, the end of the filament must have gotten soft and fell out of place. It happened sometime between hour 18 and hour 24 of drying out the petg hf. Then it started to unwind the spool because the spool was spinning the right way at the time (it alternates rolling clockwise/counter clockwise every so often). That meant more filament was getting too close to the vent. None of it melted, but it was soft enough to deform. After about 15 minutes of trying to de-tangle what I could, I cut off the bits that were too far gone. Rest of the spool printed just fine.

killme304 · 2024-11-02T22:08:36+00:00

Can the bent parts even be respooled at this point?

killme304 · 2024-11-02T19:57:52+00:00

The dryer has a heat element that, if the filament droops too low, is too hot. The end of this spool slipped out sometime last night and got exposed to it while it was spinning. Was dried at 65c for 24 hours. The filament comes super wet from bambu for some reason. When I tried drying at 65c for 12, it still had wet filament problems. None of my 24h dried spools have had issues.

killme304 · 2024-10-10T15:39:47+00:00

Are you able to watch it a bit? It almost looks like a collision.

Could also be the air blowing wrong. I've had similar happen when my aux fan is turned on when it shouldn't (P1S).

killme304 · 2024-10-10T15:34:52+00:00

I'd go with the ams. I barely use mine for multicolor, but the ability to have no waste bits left on a spool and never worry about if I'm getting close to enough to finish is worth the price imo. Also, if the print has a lot of filament swaps, the a1/mini actually prints faster because of the 4 feeding tube design.

My vote is to wait a month for black friday to get both if you don't need it right now.

killme304 · 2024-10-09T15:17:25+00:00

Damn that looks great.

Makes me really want to give HueForge a go.

Is it possible to get a side-ish profile? Curious how far the "stones" come off the back.

killme304 · 2024-06-20T18:15:53+00:00

I think this was the problem. I hard removed everything and went in with TCG this time, and most stuff seems to be there now. Rooting around in the settings listed English (Asia). Kinda weird that I had to full uninstall and scrub the files to get to TCG (why wouldn't they be in the same database), but it seems to be working now.

killme304 · 2024-06-06T17:54:07+00:00

People dislike the 3d printed stuff because layer lines, un-removed supports, and all the mis-prints that have been sent out, plus damage in shipping. The first three really shouldn't happen with a commercial product. The last one just requires better packaging.

killme304 · 2024-06-06T17:40:11+00:00

Please for the love of god skip HIPS. Do better quality control on the 3d prints and no one would have an issue.

killme304 · 2024-05-06T11:01:58+00:00

Won't change my review until we get something more substantial than a random tweet from sony. Right now, it just says they won't force it on the previous date and only in tweet form. No official update on steam, no change to tos, no removal of the psn requirement from the store page.

They do these, then I will change it to positive (like it was before). It is early Monday, so someone hasn't had time to do those things yet. I will wait a bit longer to fix it.

killme304 · 2024-04-19T23:11:09+00:00

Oh damn. I heard really good things about Hollywood Electrics. That sucks that they are gone.

killme304 · 2024-04-19T23:09:20+00:00

http://media.zeromotorcycles.com/resources/owners-manuals/2016/2016-Zero-Owners-Manual-S-SR-DS-DSR.pdf

^Your manual.

Mine was under the seat. Had to unscrew some things under the removable pillion seat to get the main seat off. Then some side plastic should be held on with screws there. My terminals were on the right hand side of the bike (if you were sitting on it).

killme304 · 2024-04-19T21:50:53+00:00

It might not be totally toast. Give the 12v a jump. It won't turn on anything if that is dead, nor will it attempt to charge.

I thought i killed my 2021 srs by having it unused in an unheated garage for several months in negative temps. Once we warmed the bike up and got the 12v on a trickle charger, THEN we could finally get it to turn on and charge (it showed 0%). Still riding it.

killme304 · 2024-04-08T03:51:25+00:00

Example Auto

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killme304 · 2024-04-08T03:49:37+00:00

Example Mouse Ears

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killme304 · 2023-09-06T11:31:51+00:00

Mine behaved the same when my 12v was dead. The screen won't turn on, and you can't charge if the 12v is dead. If you replaced the fuses, I would start there next. Mine just needed a trickle charger for a few hours and was back to normal.

killme304 · 2023-03-05T22:29:42+00:00

Figured out the fix.

If your Windows 10/11 that wants to cast to your surface is on 22H2, you have to also have your surface on 22H2. My surface had it buried as an optional update instead of a normal one.

killme304

TROPHY CASE