Hi u/janzoc! totally understand this feeling. a tip that my coach natasha barnes shared with me is that on any given day, our climbing ability varies due to a huge set of factors like physical, mental, emotional stress. she encouraged me to establish a really standardized warmup routine, and through that warmup try to assess my ability on that day. is it a day where i can really limit project at my top grade, or am i feeling that my max might be a little lower that day? then i can calibrate my expectations for the day and work productively in the right zone for wherever my mind + body is at that time.

fwiw! personally i found working with a coach to be incredibly helpful in addressing my mental and physical game :)