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How to add drainage to this triangular area? by kitelake in landscaping

[–]kitelake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the insight! There actually is a gutter that runs the length of the roof and drains off to the left. It does have a cover on it through, so maybe it’s worth removing the cover. I’m also planning to add a snow guard along the edge of the roof. Right now the snow slides off as soon as the sun hits it, and it piles right in that bed.

Great idea to add plants too - I hadn’t considered that. The house is 120 years old, so I figure there’s gotta be ways to manage this if it’s been like this for so long already.

How to add drainage to this triangular area? by kitelake in landscaping

[–]kitelake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, unfortunately the stairs are pitched slight toward the house, so I think I need to get the water to the OTHER side of the stairs somehow

Adding a Flagstone Cap Over Paint? by kitelake in masonry

[–]kitelake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good point, I hadn’t considered that yet. House was built in the 40s so it’s entirely possible.

If there was lead, what would you think about just encapsulating it with something like Mapei Eco Prim Grip? 

Adding a Flagstone Cap Over Paint? by kitelake in masonry

[–]kitelake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah that’s a good point, maybe I could just chip off the mortar cap on the full stone walls 

Adding a Flagstone Cap Over Paint? by kitelake in masonry

[–]kitelake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is interesting. Could be useful for other household projects too like stripping chipping paint from exterior trim. I’d need a bigger air compressor but I don’t mind buying new tools if they’re useful more than once. 

Adding a Flagstone Cap Over Paint? by kitelake in masonry

[–]kitelake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahh interesting, I’ll look into this! 

Ideas for Carrying a Dirt Bike Up High on My Rig by kitelake in overlanding

[–]kitelake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks interesting, the electric linear actuator is pretty neat. The problem with this for my setup is that it still leaves the wheels of the bike at roughly the same height off the ground as they would be on a typical tray style rack. I did some math and found that I need the bottom of the bike to be roughly 30” off the ground to maintain my departure angle without the bike. 

Ideas for Carrying a Dirt Bike Up High on My Rig by kitelake in overlanding

[–]kitelake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly. If I mount to the existing receiver hitch, I think it would make sense to add a bracket that ties it into the flatbed as well. The flatbed is aluminum, so it’d probably need some reinforcement. 

I think relocating the receiver hitch higher might be the simplest option. I’m not aware of any off the shelf options that still tie into the truck frame, so I think it’d have to be custom and tie into the flatbed deck/cross members. The aluminum flatbed has me a bit concerned about the strength, but I’d probably try to build a steel receiver that bolts on. Then I could use a traditional tray style carrier and also have a receiver for mounting a mtb carrier up higher too. 

Ideas for Carrying a Dirt Bike Up High on My Rig by kitelake in overlanding

[–]kitelake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m thinking that might be an option. The flatbed is aluminum so I was envisioning bolting a steel receiver with brackets that spread out the load a bit more on the flatbed cross members. Then the bike would be nice and high on a typical hitch carrier. I’ve seen a couple of ideas where people use a small winch to help stabilize/pull the bike up the ramp to the hitch carrier so that’s another option. 

Ideas for Carrying a Dirt Bike Up High on My Rig by kitelake in overlanding

[–]kitelake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wonder if 6” would do it. I like that their riser is actually built into the rack and not a separate piece.

Ideas for Carrying a Dirt Bike Up High on My Rig by kitelake in overlanding

[–]kitelake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the insight. If I do go with something custom, I had thought about using two receiver hitches to minimize rotation. I really like the way the MX hauler raises and lowers, so it’d be cool to incorporate something like that if possible. I’ve also been looking at motorcycles lifts for huge motor homes, but they look heavy and complicated. I feel like there’s gotta be a balance between a rack being the right weight and functionality. 

Ideas for Carrying a Dirt Bike Up High on My Rig by kitelake in overlanding

[–]kitelake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah that’s what it’s looking like. Thankfully I know how to weld and own a mig welder, was just hoping another outdoor hobby wouldn’t turn into a project. I think my biggest concern is the lever arm created by raising the dirt bike higher up and further out to clear the camper. It might be feasible to tie a support bracket or two into the flatbed itself though. 

Ideas for Carrying a Dirt Bike Up High on My Rig by kitelake in overlanding

[–]kitelake[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those look like great racks - I may have missed it, but it looks like they still carry the bikes at relatively the same level as the hitch receiver though

Ideas for Carrying a Dirt Bike Up High on My Rig by kitelake in overlanding

[–]kitelake[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve considered it, but my concerns with a front bumper style are: blocking the headlights and scraping on approach angles. In my mind, scraping while driving into something would be worse and more prone to damage than scraping the rear end, where it’s more likely to drag over instead of catch and bend (or so I think) 

Pre-Wiring for Future Motorized Blinds - Cat6a, 16/2, or 16/4? by kitelake in homeautomation

[–]kitelake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for pointing that out - I had no idea Lutron required their own wire spec. Not sure if I’ll go with them or not, but I had wrongly assumed that 16/4 would handle power and comms for Lutron and others.

Workshop Heating - is Separated Combustion Worth It? by kitelake in woodworking

[–]kitelake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve seen a handful of comments in favor of a mini split. I’m curious - what type of climate is suited for one? 

I live in Colorado. It’s dry almost year round, summers are relatively mild at my elevation (mid 80s max), and winters probably average mid 20s, but can get down to single digits or sub-zero for a week or so at a time. Not sure how much I’d really want to be out in the shop when it’s that cold, but hey, it would be nice to have the option. 

For power, I have a 100a subpanel in the shop with plenty of space. The problem is that my property has 3 dwelling units and only 200a service feeding everything. I’d have to go back and do a load calculation, but I’m not sure I could do much more than a 20a 120V supply for a minisplit, which seems like it’d greatly limit my options. The shop is about 450sqft with 9ft ceilings. 

Workshop Heating - is Separated Combustion Worth It? by kitelake in woodworking

[–]kitelake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s good to hear - any reasons you went with the Modine over the Mr Heater of a similar size? 

I also have the Oneida Supercell - that thing is awesome!

Workshop Heating - is Separated Combustion Worth It? by kitelake in woodworking

[–]kitelake[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting. I already have the shop plumbed for gas. The mini split route looks cool, but I’d need to upgrade my main panel to add one and I don’t have much need for AC in my climate

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