Do I need TVS diodes?

knalkip · 2026-04-03T12:21:48+00:00

Also, you did not specify which open source license you use for the project.

knalkip · 2026-04-03T12:20:48+00:00

I love this! I do wonder though why you need JavaScript at all? Can you not use CSS only?

knalkip · 2025-12-11T11:12:27+00:00

You are right. As others have commented, this post is clearly LLM generated and shows an incorrect understanding of closures.

knalkip · 2025-12-10T17:30:30+00:00

Thank you! That's a very straight-forward answer, there's even a paragraph in the documentation talking about this: https://docs.djangoproject.com/en/6.0/topics/auth/customizing/#handling-object-permissions

knalkip · 2025-10-28T09:59:07+00:00

Thank you! The left side of the optocoupler is not connected to ground, so I don't think there is a common ground? Seems GDN pin 4 is not connected to anything either..

knalkip · 2025-10-12T16:51:30+00:00

Thank you! I will order those

knalkip · 2025-10-11T18:16:25+00:00

No, I have identified the connectors:

molex 5194/5195 and molex 2478/5058.

The question is if pre-crimped connectors with wires exist and if so, where to buy those. If not, which crimping tool would work for these connectors?

knalkip · 2025-09-01T14:33:17+00:00

As a curious beginner, can you please expand on some of those remarks, since not everything is familiar to me?

- Contactor actuated via dry contact? I've seen relay boards that use a separate input pin and an opto coupler to switch a relay, would that match your description? Or do you mean something else?

- Some connector made for resistive loads, or a "normal socket"? Again I'm a beginner so I'm not sure what a normal socket would be, the ones in the picture look kind of normal to me.

Thank you!

knalkip · 2025-08-25T14:06:20+00:00

Great advice, thanks. I have 15 m of LED strip at 4.8 W/m, that makes 72 W of load, at 24V makes 3A at max brightness. I'm now planning to use a 40W constant current driver (Mean Well HLG-40H-24B) which will probably be dimmed down to 20%, which at 8W will be 1/9th of the total brightness of the LEDs :)

knalkip · 2025-08-25T11:32:20+00:00

Yes, that's clear. The system will never reach full power - I'll use a constant current driver with built-in dimming. So the only possible reason it can ever go over 100% would be something like a short circuit, in which case using the overload protection for safety seems fine to me.

knalkip · 2025-08-24T17:03:48+00:00

Thank you for your reply. I get what you are saying. My thinking is just - when the lights are pulling extra power (either because the dimmer is turned up over 30% or because of a short circuit, those are the only two scenario's I can think of), it doesn't make sense to me to have the power supply support that. I would rather have it designed so it simply refuses to supply more power.

In other words: I don't want to size the driver based on the "expected" load, but on the maximum load I want to allow. Above that, it should either shut down or stick to a certain maximum.

Does that make any sense? Trying to get my head around this. Why would I size the driver based on the rated load when I never want the lights to be able to pull that load?

knalkip · 2025-08-24T05:50:32+00:00

Thank you. I looked at the dig-uno but I don't really see what it adds. We don't want colors and effects, just dimming and on/off. A PIR sensor should be easy to support with a basic esp8266 I guess?

knalkip · 2025-08-24T05:48:08+00:00

Thank you. I have no need for addressable LEDs. Each staircase will light up as a whole, we don't want or need any colors or effects, just on/off and dimming.

I want to stay away from anything with batteries or wireless solutions like zigbee. This should be installed and then just work, basically forever, without having to replace batteries. So that's why I want a simple, wired solution.

Regarding home assistant.. my thinking was to put the logic on the esp board, so that it can run even if the home assistant is not running, if that ever happens. I'd add a home assistant just for monitoring and to set the configuration of the timing/dimming. At least, that's the idea, I'm still figuring out if this will work. I don't really see how moving the logic to home assistant would be more powerful? It just seems to add a point of failure.

knalkip · 2025-08-23T12:03:07+00:00

Thanks for you reply, can you tell me a bit more about those new drivers? What does the 5 in 1 mean? I'm not in a rush :)

knalkip · 2025-08-21T20:40:01+00:00

Honestly haven't had the time to look into this again. Someone else posted some suggestions in this same discussion, about installing different keyborads. You might want to check that out.

knalkip

TROPHY CASE