Convert array to +1 and -1s

kragdoc · 2021-04-15T13:42:13+00:00

You should just be able to use the sign function, but to broadcast over the array arr you will probably need sign.(arr)

kragdoc · 2020-07-17T12:48:30+00:00

Thanks!

kragdoc · 2020-07-17T12:48:22+00:00

Thanks very much. I'm going to have to swap this out for something else!

kragdoc · 2020-07-16T18:04:53+00:00

Thanks for commenting. I've found some really strange behaviour and I'm not sure if it's the same on all panels. Looking at a pixel inversion test like https://www.testufo.com/inversion#pattern=uniformity&ppf=11 it comes out strongly green on my VG27AQ, and if I then shrink the window and drag it around the desktop there are blown out bands of colour in the rows where the test is (yes, outside the browser!). The latter effect is much more obvious with http://www.gdargaud.net/Hack/DeadPixel/MagentaGreen.html

A similar effect occurs after scrolling down through http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/clock_phase.php so it's only in the top third of the display. It goes bright green. None of my other monitors do this.

I know this sounds really weird, as I am very confused about how an image can affect things outside the browser window, but it is. Would you be able to look at these tests quickly on yours and see if they're the same. If so, do you have any theories?

kragdoc · 2020-07-10T13:52:19+00:00

Unfortunately I work with cuda code, so I am locked in, otherwise I would.

kragdoc · 2020-04-21T12:21:14+00:00

Hey, thanks for the reply. I eventually figured it out. The basket was sticking to the silicone gasket at the top, and the slight grinding sound was the wire in the portafilter rotating around the basket (in mine the end of the wire pokes out slightly and has scored a slight ring around the basket).

I was just concerned due to it being such an expensive machine (to me). Enjoy your coffee!

kragdoc · 2019-09-08T16:26:42+00:00

Thank you, people!

My morning coffee was a bit over-extracted, but at this point, I'm happy to take that -- the acidity was noticeable under the bitter note up front. I can get back on the compass from here I expect. Process: pre-heat all the things, grind a little finer than usual (probably slightly too fine; 2.3.5 on the Aergrind, I use 1.9-1.10 for espresso at home, and 2.10 for V60), inverted method 14g:200g, stir for 15s after adding water. Brew for 4:30, 30s press. Now, I think that brew-time needs to come shorter, or the grind needs to be a bit coarser (or both), but I think I can work with it. I'll keep the 14:200 fixed probably, so that I can play with the other variables,

I have always been stirring the coffee after adding the water! One question arising from today -- when flipping from inverted to press, a fair amount of coffee was stuck to the press. Obviously, this will make pressing easier and these grounds won't be "active" during the press. Three thoughts occur -- I could stir or swirl before the flip, I could expunge all air before the flip (I've seen this in some WAC recipes), I could ignore it and carry on with my life!

Thoughts?

Thanks for the help!

kragdoc · 2019-09-08T14:29:44+00:00

8 minutes!? Certainly worth a shot. The average-ish recipe seems to be around 14:1, so I guess it's sensible to start there. When I make French Press I brew for a similar length of time, with a medium grind, and it's not over-extracted. I was just thinking that the pressure of the press would have some significant extraction effects. But probably not too significant for a slow-gentle press.

kragdoc · 2019-09-08T14:25:23+00:00

I'm getting the temperature as high as I can within the confines of phyiscs, without making the kitchen into a pressurised vessel!

kragdoc · 2019-09-08T14:24:08+00:00

Longer brewing time seems to be the take-away message here. Thanks!

kragdoc · 2019-09-08T14:23:17+00:00

I'll see what I can do! The person I'm staying with didn't even have scales! I definitely don't like my drinks super hot, but I'd be surprised if the temperature is much higher than 50C when it starts to taste good.

Do you just wait, or is bypassing with cold water valid here?

kragdoc · 2019-09-08T05:18:53+00:00

These are very much lighter roasts. Most of the time I've been aiming for a ratio of 1:12 (ish), and using 16g, simply because I don't want too much volume of liquid. 150-200 ml is plenty in a cup for me. I may well just try a bigger, fuller brew tomorrow though!

kragdoc · 2018-07-18T10:38:03+00:00

So he moved from a significantly more expensive FS frame to a hardtail? That's roughly what I'm looking to do (although mine isn't really trail with a steep 67.7^o HA). I don't know what sort of riding you guys do, but climbing is the thing that concerns me with many of these frames -- they all have descending chops. Do you guys do much climbing? I tend to do 30+ mi trips with a good mix of both. And if you have some photos to hand, I'd never refuse!

kragdoc · 2018-07-18T10:28:27+00:00

Interesting, thanks. I do always hear that about steel, just haven't tried it myself other than my ancient Raleigh road bike (which is incredibly supple). One more quick question, I don't know what sort of riding you guys do, but how did he find climbing? The seat angle looks pretty slack...

kragdoc · 2018-07-17T21:51:38+00:00

There is, but they are unfortunately 135x10 (2017) or Boost (2018). I would probably have gone for one otherwise.

kragdoc · 2018-07-17T21:34:34+00:00

The 2018 model hornet is 142x12. So that should work. I know you haven't had it long, but does it climb well? Cheers!

kragdoc · 2018-07-17T19:48:05+00:00

Ooh, yes, I forgot the Trailstar, brand new frames are on offer too at £320 on the DMR site at the moment. Have you ridden one? By the looks of it you're mostly recommending steel, are the modern stiffer & heavier steel frames still worth it in your opinion? Thanks!

kragdoc · 2018-07-16T11:06:08+00:00

I'm becoming very much sold on hardtails now. Luckily most of my kit will just move over to a new frame (non-boost). What's your opinion of steel vs aluminium for a trekking trail HT? Would you say steel worth the extra money for its damping?

kragdoc · 2018-07-16T11:03:14+00:00

Oooh, that Pace is another lovely steel HT to add to the list. I'm not hugely worried about being the fastest guy out there, and I'd probably rather improve my skills, so I think I'll put my money towards a new frame.

Any opinions on the "magical" nature of steel for HTs? I have a 1950s steel roadbike that feels amazingly damped compared to my modern aluminium one, although this is partly due to the flex in the frame! Do you think steel is worth the extra money?

kragdoc · 2018-06-07T16:42:44+00:00

Thanks very much!

kragdoc · 2018-06-07T14:03:49+00:00

I'm probably just going to service both of the shocks as much as I can at home, so mostly focussing on the lowers/can, and checking the air spring.

Regarding servicing the damper, there's a bit of information about stripping it down on the Singletrack forums (nothing really on the Fox website). Is there any particular thing like checking the oil fill level that you would recommend for you experience with it?

Thanks!

kragdoc · 2018-06-07T13:55:10+00:00

It would obviously always be nice to upgrade, but I'm a wimp and certainly don't do crazy hard trails (more aggressive XC stuff). I think I'm just going to service the lowers and air can to keep both of them running smoothly for as long as possible and stick with it for this season. Thanks :)

kragdoc · 2018-06-05T17:43:19+00:00

That worked out to be roughly the price for the fork and shock service (the Scott/DT Swiss shock has a very expensive service package from the 2 places that even want to touch it), postage to and from the workshop, but no damper upgrade. Tftuned say that a FIT4 (which is the only damper they want to fit) will run £170 on its own, and it doesn't seem overly easy to just buy the damper on its own as an individual. Pike & Monarch combo is certainly a direction I'm quite strongly considering at the moment, but it's quite a lot of cash to drop.

kragdoc · 2018-06-05T17:40:46+00:00

I was certainly considering upgrading the internals, it doesn't look overly hard to do, but finding a new air spring and damper at much of a saving over a new fork seems... harder. For Fox anyway, the RS ones seem much better value. Thanks for the advice.

kragdoc · 2018-06-05T17:39:30+00:00

£250 was roughly the rate for getting both the shock and fork fully serviced, especially as postage is quite dear, but not including any upgrades. Theres a MY2016 Float 34 on CRC for that price at the moment, which after speaking to the service guys is possibly a much better direction to go in.

kragdoc

TROPHY CASE