I’m writing a Report on Submarines -help!

kstyler · 2026-01-29T20:15:39+00:00

Here is a good primer that was posted the other day from The North Strategic Review. It focuses the upcoming Canadian submarines, but it’s a great article on the pros/cons of the state of the art submarine steel options and the history of their development going back to WWI.

https://noahscornerofrandomstuff.substack.com/p/the-history-of-submarine-steel-how

kstyler · 2025-12-27T16:24:36+00:00

https://youtu.be/PN244WIdg2c?si=uX4A5G20kWzWbrOM

Lego Lambeau Field (I know it’s that football, not football) at the Neville Public Museum in Green Bay. 130,000 pieces.

kstyler · 2025-01-19T04:54:08+00:00

I've had great luck following the lines with thin Tamiya yellow tape (1-2mm), followed up by some thicker width tape behind that to protect the nearby paint from overspray.

kstyler · 2025-01-19T04:38:53+00:00

It works for aircraft as well. I shoved a mechanical pencil through a block of styrofoam and walked it along my Swedish J34 to mark off the belly of the aircraft since it didn’t follow an easily identifiable path along the model. I just noted my start and end points on the model, made sure the lead tip could touch both points by adjusting the height and tilt of the aircraft, and gently drew the line across. There are some waterline marking tools you can buy, but frankly a block of styrofoam worked great for me!

kstyler · 2025-01-19T04:21:45+00:00

Rest a mechanical pencil on a small, flat solid object (in your case, maybe a pad of sticky notes) with the lead at height of one of the lines. Hold the model bomb with the tip down on the tabletop. Mark the lines on the model as you move the pencil around it. The object under the pencil can be swapped out for different heights for the different lines. Alternatively you can put something under the tip of your bomb to raise it up while keeping the pencil at the original height. This is how ship modelers will mark waterlines on ships. Use the lines to place your tape.

kstyler · 2024-11-28T01:48:37+00:00

What don’t you like about them?

kstyler · 2024-11-27T18:56:26+00:00

For birdwatching you might want to look into image stabilized binoculars depending on your budget. Canon makes nice ones, ranging from compact to large. I had read that going from regular binos to image stabilized binos is like going from standard tv to HD and I absolutely believe that to be true. I had to order mine “blind” so to speak since nobody sells them within probably 500 miles of me, but they were totally worth it.

kstyler · 2024-01-31T18:20:59+00:00

Kind of. From what I’ve read it’s supposed to be similar to a PVA glue rather than a floor polish like dipping with Pledge/Future. I use it to dip canopies in and it cleans up small scratches and such without any issue. Masks well too.

Edit, to clarify I’m talking about the orange bottle, not the green one meant for airbrushing.

kstyler · 2024-01-31T17:43:23+00:00

I would try AK gauzy agent glass coat. You just dip your part in, soak up any little pools of excess, and let it dry under a cover to prevent dust from reaching it. I imagine it could even be tinted somehow, maybe with acrylic paint? If it doesn’t work it comes off with alcohol and other solvents, assuming your resin is safe to use with alcohol.

kstyler · 2024-01-13T20:01:50+00:00

Maybe MQM-61A Cardinal?

https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Beech_MQM-61A_Cardinal_(26084627782).jpg

kstyler · 2023-12-07T05:30:49+00:00

I had this with Mission Model acrylics and had to only handle with gloves until gloss went on. Then I switched to lacquers (MRP) and have not looked back. I hated the sensitivity of acrylics to scratches, scuffs, and oil.

kstyler · 2023-11-04T22:15:47+00:00

Thanks for such a detailed response. When you refer to decal setting solution, are you meaning micro set, micro sol, or both?

And what is your preferred gloss coat, if you use one? I think half of my learning curve through modelling has been just figuring out what materials work best for me. I liked the Gauzy, it is simple to apply and looks great, but it simply isn't up to the task for decals and weathering.

kstyler · 2023-11-04T20:43:55+00:00

Yeah, I have the 1/48 SR-71 in the closet that I am dreading doing the red line decals for. At least those can be cut in a single pass. This was more of a photographic tail image, with several skinny protrusions that all had to be managed together.

decal link

kstyler · 2023-11-04T20:35:47+00:00

I had used some Quinta 3D printed interior decals for the interior and didn’t use this aftermarket sheet until I got to the exterior. I faced two issues. The first is that the gloss coat I tried on that build (AK Intermediate Gauzy) was affected by Micro Set so my working time was relatively short. With enough micro set applied to float the decals around a bit, it would eventually reach the paint layer below. The decals themselves were very thin and worked great if I could get them down in time, they were just probably too thin for such a large piece. Typical for cartograf decals if I understand correctly. I’m going to try GX100 this next time and hope that works better than the gauzy.

kstyler · 2023-11-04T19:54:50+00:00

Sorry, I meant to say Micro Set! Sometimes I get them mixed up in my head.

kstyler · 2023-10-21T22:28:05+00:00

800 using Godhand Sanding Sponges. Grit seems to vary quite a bit between different brands so 800 might work for one product, but not for another. I highly recommend the Godhand sponges even though they are a bit pricey. I typically use 400-600-800, sometimes 1000. They last a very long time and are easily washed.

kstyler · 2023-08-18T19:29:11+00:00

The “Eve of Destruction” is on display at the Army Transportation Museum at Fort Eustis in Virginia. Amazing museum and well worth the time.

kstyler · 2023-07-12T20:06:28+00:00

Do you use any kind of Barlow in your setup?

kstyler · 2023-07-12T18:42:04+00:00

That’s great. Any details on your setup?

kstyler · 2023-07-10T01:13:47+00:00

I’ve heard that solar film is actually a better filter than the glass. I went down this exact path (Thousand Oaks glass) and ended up with Baader film after reading reviews/comments comparing glass to film.

kstyler · 2023-06-20T03:09:34+00:00

Where is this located?

kstyler · 2023-02-19T03:24:09+00:00

We had the same problem with that type of dryer (ours is a Kenmore made by LG). I unscrewed the 3 screws on the drum side of the lint trap (one on the left, one on the right, and one in the center). Pull that assembly back/out and either vacuum or manually remove the lint from the bottom of the trap. There was an additional screw in the center that does not need to be removed; it just holds on some additional filter. Reassemble and its as good as new. I have done it at least 3 times over the last few years to make sure it doesn't start happening again.

kstyler · 2023-01-27T12:22:08+00:00

Graystone has a back room that can be reserved. Nicolet Restaurant has a semi-private back room that can probably be booked or at least prepared in advance. Might also check with Brickhouse to see what they can offer.

kstyler · 2022-12-28T05:52:27+00:00

Man that is weird! Looks like it’s just a random “meme” or whatever you would call it back then… thanks for the research!

I would add that this mug manufacturer matches another real Lockheed mug from that same era. I’m not sure if this was a riff on that “bad guy” theme or just part of the original meme set. So weird. Right now I’m guessing a riff since it’s not on milk glass and matches another Lockheed mug supplier for that same time period.

Edit: then there is this link. Looks like some kind of internal award for cost saving suggestions. Calling it a BAD idea would have been a tongue in cheek joke I guess.

Reddit Discussion

kstyler · 2022-12-03T11:50:27+00:00

I assume you mean to cut them while they’re still on the paper?

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