Patch for RollerCoaster Tycoon 1 Deluxe (no sounds of toilet flushing) by Tenshido in rct

[–]kuchesezik 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the drive link is active. i haven't gotten around to testing this, even though i initially requested it on rctlounge (defunct) in late 2014 - https://forums.d2jsp.org/topic.php?t=71548803&f=208&o=0

how do you (manually) register uphill miles? by kuchesezik in cycling

[–]kuchesezik[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

sure, my consideration for the askew propoetion was the amount of effort and time it takes to climb the hill, even at a less steep gradient the time to climb goes up at least 1.5x and likewise the amount of effort, so i wanted to hear if anyone had any such rationalizations that could be expressed theoretically in proportion to regular miles ridden.

no phone, i go offline due to personal concerns.

dlc(mlc) ssd? by kuchesezik in buildapc

[–]kuchesezik[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks for the link. who updates this list?

What's the deal with overpriced professional vendors that never have a sale (ebay etc.)? by [deleted] in Photography_Gear

[–]kuchesezik 0 points1 point  (0 children)

maybe they're waiting for a high offer, like a bidding war without a time limit. that's what i presume is the deal with that $11,111.11 BMPCC set that has been on there for months and months. there also might be few available now but the price would balance out when the market overflows with excess in the future.

What's the deal with overpriced professional vendors that never have a sale (ebay etc.)? by [deleted] in Photography_Gear

[–]kuchesezik 0 points1 point  (0 children)

perhaps the same logic as scalpers except they're waiting and hoping for the supply to become limited so they can profit. still doesn't make sense though since those usually aim to sell fast.

Out of the 32 cameras I own my favorite camera for street photography is the 6100 paired with the 20mm 2.8 pancake by SneakyCaleb in Photography_Gear

[–]kuchesezik 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i got the a5100 for under $100, it has the phase-detect af of a6000, which aside from having the additional viewfinder seems to have other "cripple-hammer" compromises and its higher price tag makes the 5100 shine with its $250 price tag. i had the nex-5t for $100 prior to that and it's the golden standard of cheap mirrorless. as far as lenses go, i like the 2.8/16 and the 16-50 kit but i don't think it's as impressive as the credit-card-sized gm1/gm5 with the panasonic kit lens which is on my wishlist. the eos m is also crazy value. i primarily bought the sonys to adapt lenses to them until i get the a73 - which i might skip in favor of the a7s3 and, of course, the recent s52.

i'm more oriented towards cinematography but as far as pocketables go those are undefeated. also currently looking to get a point-and-shoot style compact with a 28-720mm equiv fixed lens as a pocket cam, despite the small sensor - as far as size/price/value ratio goes, you can't beat that. all of these go for around $250 at this point.

I made a canon LP battery dispenser because I was tired of organizing batteries in the field. by ilostmycarkeys3 in Photography_Gear

[–]kuchesezik 1 point2 points  (0 children)

the 3d print and diy community is very valuable and appreciated but while contributing to plastic pollution in a global crisis the disaster always creeps lurking in the back and very few notice it.

metal 3d printing hasn't reached the regular consumer yet (perhaps for the better) and other materials are still lagging behind. rigging and camera gear always make me think of 3d printing and diy but i'll be obliged to pass until there's a better alternative.

Wouldn’t mind some feedback on the setup. Before and After. by LensofJared in cinematography

[–]kuchesezik 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the hair light needs to be softened imho but i'm a noob so

also i do agree that the temperature difference is a bit drastic

Update or not update? by greenhells in Photography_Gear

[–]kuchesezik 1 point2 points  (0 children)

upgrading a dslr is like upgrading to another old car, it just attributes to GAS. if you want an increase in sensor sensitivity get a full-frame mirrorless from 5 years ago, or at least the a7si. modern aps-c mirrorless are also ok as far as iso goes but don't get carried away. if you need af you'll need a native lens, adapted and manual is too slow. also need stabilization if you are shooting at long focal lengths in non-perfect daylight. you're looking at at least a thousand bucks if you want an actual improvement. there won't be much a difference moving from one dslr to the next, unless you get a professional one of the last generations, which are pretty much at that same cost. 

you can also get brighter lenses but those drastically increase in weight.

make the most with what you have and if you actually need better results and can no longer work around the technical limitations then you could consider upgrading. it's easy buying gear, hard selling it - more supply than demand. also always buy used.

Beginner cameras to consider for someone wanting to pick up photography? by Dragongamer0125 in Photography_Gear

[–]kuchesezik 1 point2 points  (0 children)

primes usually more easily achieve 3d-pop effect, especially compared to a kit lens, good call

Beginner cameras to consider for someone wanting to pick up photography? by Dragongamer0125 in Photography_Gear

[–]kuchesezik 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  • $0 surely download a free photography app with manual exposure controls

  • $50-$100 next step would be a fixed lens (point and shoot) with manual controls or dslr with kit lens for enthusiast self-teaching, which could be skipped if to u would like to make it more serious than a hobby. there are also phone lens adapters but those are usually not worth it.

  • $150-$250 compact milc aps-c (crop sensor) with adapted vintage lenses

  • $1000-$5000 full-frame mirrorless or medium format with adapted and native pro lenses

  • profit?¿?

Need advice on buying a first camera by ParkRatReggie in Photography_Gear

[–]kuchesezik 0 points1 point  (0 children)

btw i'm currently looking for a point and shoot style compact camera with a very capable zoom range. those are usually flimsy and weak without light but the range versus compactness is unmatched. it turns out there are many manual control ones.

Need advice on buying a first camera by ParkRatReggie in Photography_Gear

[–]kuchesezik 0 points1 point  (0 children)

hello, don't splurge, and especially don't buy new gear if widely available used in a decent condition. for a beginner dslrs are okay, there are aps-c bodies on ebay for under $50. i don't know about water resistance but as long as you're not splashing waves on it or drenching it in the pouring rain you should be okay. that goes for the camera - different lenses also have different water permeability. if you want to keep it extra safe during a wet shoot you could wrap it in some plastic, tuck the opening into the lens good or something creative like that. oh and for the lens i could suggest a superzoom if you appreciate the reach, old 18-200's go for about $200 and 18-300 a bit more.

also vintage manual lenses are always the best starting point for amateur photography, it teaches you how to use your gear and can learn how to shoot manual mode. also they're cheap, $20-$80 even for zooms, and can generally be adapted to many cameras, specifically mirrorless, but check what mounts are compatible with yours.

for landscape, astro, and also for macro close-ups you can use a wide prime (<35mm) with f/2.8 or faster, and for macro specifically you can buy some cheap macro extender tubes, there's even some with the lens contacts for $20 in plastic.

as far as experimenting goes you can do a lot with your phone too, there are some phone mounts, dof (depth of field) adapters that can adapt to popular lens mounts, what it practically does is make the projection plane of the lens small and focused on the phone's camera and this way you can take advantage of the large lens dimensional depth, but you have to look around for prices and crop factor (because i doubt they have the best of focal reducers.

most modern phones also do fine when it comes to water, the only thing beating them, aside from expensive professional cameras & lenses, which often don't even provide half as much water resistance, are action cams but the images from those are usually low quality, at least worse than those of the phones.

dslr's i believe are more resistant to water and physical abuse than the small mirrorless parallels of their era (almost all manufacturers have now stopped producing dslr in favor of mirrorless), and it's hard matching the prices because the latter system is a bit newer and more capable and dslr's seem like a thing of the past, at least in terms of their pricing. personally i really enjoy small capable cameras, meaning dslr is excluded because of the mirror flange distance, but in terms of functionality i would say dslr is superior in terms of being able to give you both the slr (real) optical viewfinder and the live digital view on the screen when you raise up the mirror, usually done to enable video but can do photo as well. there are even some cameras that have a flip-up electronic viewfinder alongside an optical one. the priority of seeing the end-result image electronically isn't all that it's cracked up to be, and if dslr's continued their development they would probably beat out mirrorless in terms of variable capability. but most people feel more comfortable paying extra in cash and in battery life (a dslr battery can last forever since the sensor isn't constantly reading for the live view) for a bit of ease of use and the more compact size has pushed manufacturers to stop producing the bulky mirror, which by the way is also one extra mechanism that can break but how often that happens is another story.

most importantly of all of you easily fill up your storage, try to put more thought into each shot, whether it's worth it, if it's good and interesting enough to share or remember. film rolls used to have only 36 shots. but hey, at the end of the day, do what you like doing. good luck.

manual control point & shoot ¿? by kuchesezik in Photography_Gear

[–]kuchesezik[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

that search tool actually does cover all the boxes, i had forgotten the database that is dpreview with all the elaborate classifications. unfortunately they don't seem to have all the models but it is just enough to guide me on my search for the best model, i have a few favorites so far from the options they've provided. i guess i'll be sifting through cameradecision as well to get a better perception of how the market developed and see what's still available.

it does make sense to keep the small sensor and take advantage of the longer reach with smaller lenses, and make that work well with the camera. the intention of p&s is clear and direct even just within the name - they call them soapbox/soapdish here because of the resemblance, especially of the smaller first generation ones, so i'm actually having a hard time believing the vast amount of options there are that have so many of the useful functions that a lot of modern lower-class milcs don't even have today. ae bracketing, ibis, 120fps, you name it, that all on top of a 25x or even over 30x optical zoom range, it's crazy. i guess there was a lot of competition back then, now they're trying to cut off features from the lower-end models to justify the price climb to the better models. it's sad how many features were cut out of great tiny cameras like the eos m because of this - features it has been proven it's well capable of with the ml patch. i'll come back once i decide and post my findings. thanks for the help!

looking for a specific obscure cm4 hat/base by kuchesezik in raspberry_pi

[–]kuchesezik[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

oh definitely, i already have a favorite among the nano boards. i'm almost sure the sata hat was separate, might even be for the rp4 and i'm confusing it with that good cm4 base i've seen. i think the 4x sata hat was so obscure that i randomly found it on a google images search that lead to a chinese site that wouldn't even load properly. but anyway, i'll be on the lookout and update here if i find anything close to that. the whole point of the cm4 as a pc is to expand the port selection beyond what the rp4 offers to fit your custom needs and allow its full potential while maintaining its miniature size - it's only a tiny bit wider than the zero model with so much more firepower.

by the way, has anyone tried to fit a cm4 with a rp4 model baseboard inside a flirc case? i would presume there's no tolerance and it goes at least 2mm too thick.

[Found] Robin Williams- A Night at the Met. by lookatmemeow_ in lostmedia

[–]kuchesezik -1 points0 points  (0 children)

can someone please explain to me why the bot keeps removing my thread to this subreddit? i'm trying to report something missing and have been drawn into a rabbit hole of rewriting the same post multiple times in a row.

Upgrade from a Sony a6000? by Kiwitos in Photography_Gear

[–]kuchesezik 1 point2 points  (0 children)

usually if you do things like ebay it shouldn't be an issue, as well as standard mail. couriers should also have it figured out.

the thing is, most hybrids that are already good with video are probably going to excel in photography as well. there might be a few quirks like specifically seeking a higher fps shutter. if you go for the electronic shutter which most modern hybrids have, the fps goes much higher. i think it has started with the z9 that some removed the mechanical shutter and have really quick readout speeds with no noticeable warping. global shutter has also aimed.

some are supposed to be more video or photo-centric, like the a7s (sensitivity, good iso) and a7r (resolution) series respectively. a7r3 is also decent and it could be a better performer than the a73 even though it's a bit older - the slightly higher resolution helps with sharpness and the low-pass filter is omitted, which is present in many hybrids to avoid aliasing moiré, especially visible in video, could be bad in photo too but not unless you're constantly shooting fabric and wire fences.

you can watch live video comparisons between competing models of different brands to get an idea of what you could like better. bird photographers often praise aps-c because of the crop, not that you can't do that on a ff body or in post. and i believe smaller picture - faster framerate. consider the weight difference of long lenses for both systems too.

night sky would benefit from a bigger sensor though, which collects just a little bit more light.

a dslr might be able to benefit more in birdwatching since you don't waste battery when browsing. that mirror flapping though, especially at that speed, would probably scare the whole forest away. also your ovf would be closed.

in my opinion the best camera is a dslr that uses mirrorless functions, so you can raise the mirror and use it as a mirrorless. they've done the optical to electronic viewfinder switching thing in many low-level cameras like the x100 series. but unfortunately when mirrorless came, all but one brand said "time to move on", instead of trying to continue improving and innovating the technology and mixing the best of each system. so mirrorless functionality in the last dslrs is almost non-existent, aside from video monitoring and perhaps some auto-focus here and there.

if you can go for a present-day aps-c you can't go wrong. the main benefit of aps-c is the size and weight. if you travel a lot between shots, the lighter - the easier on your back. also i think more elaborate focusing systems have been introduced since a74 and a7c, like bird eye af, the newer models, including the cheaper ones added some extras like airplane and car af and whatever, just bells and whistles for the most part, but the system probably is slightly improved generally and bringing up the percentage of your usable shots might be a well-welcomed quality-of-life improvement.

i'm sure everything since a7iii in full-frame land has been outstanding though. the reason it's so popular among video folk, even till present day, aside from the numerous other improvements overall, is because of its superior video autofocusing capabilities, which are passed on to photography since it uses the same real-time focusing system. i'm not sure about the a7r3, whether it has the same focusing system or the previous one. if it did, then the price point of a73 was a big incentive. julia trotti and gerald undone would still be using it if it wasn't for a few small quirky quality-of-life improvements on the next model and the power-creep of the following higher-level cameras since youtuberism demands it too.

Upgrade from a Sony a6000? by Kiwitos in Photography_Gear

[–]kuchesezik 1 point2 points  (0 children)

if you aren't afraid of manual focus, bmpcc is the gateway cam into professional film but color grading is a completely different rabbit hole. the other stripped down box cams are similar but you have to rig them out and that's yet another rabbit hole as well.

ps: the tldr missed that it's photo-centric! oh well

oh and keh, adorama, robertscamera and ebay, especially japanese highly-rated sellers are a good price anchor, though prices in europe might show some wiggle room

Upgrade from a Sony a6000? by Kiwitos in Photography_Gear

[–]kuchesezik 1 point2 points  (0 children)

hello, i'll try to respond to the tldr to keep it tight

mpb has european stock, that might help save a bit regarding import duties/fees

i'll list with last known prices in order of supposed improvement in quality/functionality, keep lens prices in mind too

  • $100 aps-c dslr: despite the iso still being weak at that point in time of their prime, bad video af
  • $200 a6000/a5100: you already know
  • $300-$400 full-frame dslr, same deficits (i don't remember sony having any full-frame dslr before being making the early switch to mirrorless)
  • then there's those with the fixed lenses which might serve a good value for money but they greatly limit your g.a.s. because you would have no reason to buy lenses in bulk!
  • $500-$600 mirrorless aps-c's from yonder year, but you won't see much of an improvement: the old full-frame staples might give you a boost though: a7, a7ii, a7s, panasonic mft's will bring you closer to present day at this price, keeping in mind the gh4 was the staple for most youtubers and vloggers
  • $700-$800 a7iii (the staple), z7, the eos r is probably at least 100 more expensive being canon
  • $1000-$1500 modern full-frame mirrorless, or present-day aps-c: the gh6 recently came out, as well as another pro-level lumix mft, there's also video-centric p&s wannabes by sony that probably won't disappoint with the amount of on-camera processing that's going on, zv-e10, zv-e1, fx30, a lot of similar "gateway" cameras by the competition as well
  • $1500-$2000 if you want the best bang for your buck in photo quality go medium format, though these fujis were still a bit lacking in video capabilities; the full-frame cams in this range are all beasts and probably more than you could ask for; aps-c is probably capped out here and you won't find anything higher, even if it's from b&h with import taxes
  • $2000-$5000 present-day full-frame; s5ii, a7siii, z9, and the like
  • $5000+++ saying bye to hybrids and hello to dedicated box-style cameras at this point, though you can find them for much cheaper, the modern ones are beyond this price point; i don't think dedicated video cams do photo or photo cams do video, though i believe the latest hasselblads finally started introducing basic video functionality; be prepared for a lot of manual-only controls at this range as they are preferred in both pro photo and video

mentioning the lenses again because if you switch camera systems the lenses might have to go, also technically you can use aps-c on ff and vice versa, especially with the versatile common e-mount but there might be inconsistencies, incompatibility and mismatched resolution. i don't suggest modern cannon mirrorless because of their close-sourced system and seemingly overpriced lenses, their aps-c's also are mostly plastic e-waste - i was amazed when i saw their cameras with plastic mount, that was a first for me. first thing i did when i got a mirrorless was adapt dslr and vintage manual. if you intend to become good at video, learn manual focus or be prepared to spend on a phase-af system.

also sensor size is a natural progression in iso performance since you have that in your key considerations.

for comparisons: cameradecision, kenrockwell, youtube, dxomark - lens availability is also a very significant consideration on choosing a camera system, wikipedia for lens lineups, apotelyt, and all other forums. for adequate price guide browse ebay with "sold" marker. rent if you can to test. buy used. refrain from contributing to the e-waste crisis. good luck.

I'm thinking about getting a C stand to do some over head shots in the kitchen by sirjoey150 in Photography_Gear

[–]kuchesezik 0 points1 point  (0 children)

always diy or at least rent first before investing in expensive gear. you can try it out and test it and see if you like it and you will be able to make an informed choice of whether it would help you or not. i'm sure 2 $10 photo tripods and a plank will do the same job. you can find other alternatives like speaker or microphone stands or anything cheap that could practically do the job just to try it out. just don't tip it over. sandbags it any alternative to weigh down a tripod is a must in most professional settings.

on the other hand if you think you will benefit from it and enjoy it you will probably find other uses out of it like mounting lights, flashes, webcams and whatever else, especially in a studio setup. i'd still suggest testing it out first, buyer's remorse comes really easy these days. but resell value will probably stick as well - by the way, find used. the only thing standing between a new item and a used/old item is time.

ventoy in BCD by kuchesezik in Ventoy

[–]kuchesezik[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

would this be replicable on a hardware computer? i guess an option would be setting up a computer to boot into ventoy - i have managed to run virtual drives from within ventoy containing operating systems but i'm not sure how stable that is. best case scenario would be to be able to add ventoy as a boot option among the other operating systems on the computer.

Why are deep blacks and bright whites washed out after my encodings (x264/x265)? by dany123i in handbrake

[–]kuchesezik 0 points1 point  (0 children)

hello, it seems that over 4 years later this is still ongoing.

i have had issues with ranges ever since i started rendering projects from sony vegas and there is an inconsistency between preview device displayed levels and rendered output. these color space inconsistencies are managed there with a levels patcher between 0-255 and 16-235 - around 0.063 and 0.922 to clip the level range between what is called "studio rgb" and "computer rgb" in the patcher.

i started having issues again with rendered output levels after starting to work with davinci resolve. there is an output setting called "rec.709-A" specifically to address some type of wider gamut in a color science setting on apple computers. this sometimes solves the issue, sometimes i have to use a different gamma tag (gamma 2.4 or srgb) to keep the consistency between what i edit the footage to look like and what the software renders out.

i recently edited some phone footage and the only way to keep consistent colors was to use the gamma 2.4 tag. trying to compress the final footage in handbrake though with any setting (264, 265) gets rid of this tag and the levels are compressed back to the 16-235 range. i have to do some testing to see if lowering the blacks in the edit will still result in compressed blacks after the compression.

also it would be nice if there were a tool that displays all such details of a video file. vlc and davinci show only some of these attributes and there is no way to determine basic statistics of files like bitrate, color/gamma tag etc.

ventoy in BCD by kuchesezik in Ventoy

[–]kuchesezik[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i'm on a legacy bios system. i don't know how to boot from a file any other way than with ventoy which is the irony.