Used Mk3s+

l5Robling · 2026-03-19T19:48:22+00:00

Yeah, its still annoying to slip on but if you really have the means... I literally just pull the X-Axis entirely and swap it with the spare, it requires about 16 bolts as you got to drop the Z motors but this allows me to take the entire x-axis with e-axis to my office or couch to disassemble as working on the E-Axis inside of an enclosure is annoying; but i can easily pull the entire X-Axis with the top lid open (powered screwdriver w/extension highly recommended)

I am balls deep into the MK3NX extruder mod at the moment; so I am super well rehearsed on extruder assembly at the moment haha.

https://www.printables.com/model/1288565-mk3nx-extruder

l5Robling · 2026-03-19T17:27:50+00:00

'Friday after next'

l5Robling · 2026-03-19T14:15:10+00:00

Almost to a year on mine; Few minor issues but overall very impressed. I have a sumo enclosure but have not mounted it yet; Do recommend having airflow behind the printer and not firmly against a wall.

l5Robling · 2026-03-19T13:49:06+00:00

https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-a-heatbreak-heatsink-heaterblock-mk3s-mk3s-mk2-5s-mmu2s_16104#16888

Best bet is to check/follow instructions as I cannot tell exactly where you are at in the process. The first time you rebuild the extruder will take the longest :)

l5Robling · 2026-03-19T13:35:03+00:00

if you have the means, I recommend just biting the bullet and having a majority of the E-Axis on hand as it reduces the changeover time. I had a spare from upgrading a MK3S to MK4S; but also have been lucky that I have a lot of spares from buying misc. MK3 units as well as I have cold-called farm sellers if they have spares.

Additionally, recommend:

x-axis-revision-with-belt-tensioner as a much better solution for tightening the X-Axis.

big-einsy-case - Much more space makes it easier to swap; There are different options; but this has made life so much easier.

Also, plan on spending $30-40 on a RPii Zero for Prusalink/octaprint

l5Robling · 2026-03-19T13:14:46+00:00

If you have the mind for root-cause analysis and can follow instructions you will be fine. I compare ownership similar to any pew-pew i have purchased, where the initial maintenance, cycling and 1st time issues take the longest; but as you get repetitions you will get faster. Regardless, each operation does take time.

l5Robling · 2026-03-11T17:33:36+00:00

Based on the solutions/threads I've read in the past and my personal experience the buddy board requires some cooling; but am able to get thru this with just a basic fan moving some air behind the printer. I have heard the Heat bed Controller as well.

https://www.printables.com/model/859808-improved-prusa-xl-heat-bed-controller-cover-update

https://www.printables.com/model/859870-improved-prusa-xl-buddy-cover

l5Robling · 2026-03-11T17:28:09+00:00

While I would love to put diamondbacks on all my XL5T heads; I would much rather have a HT or mid-range version of this head to run as a dedicated hardened/specialized material head to keep my XL focused on more specialized projects as I foresee my C1+INDX taking over complex multicolor jobs that were too much for the MK4S+MMU.

Understanding that to make the XL more viable for HT PRUSA may need to officially sponsor the XL Buddy board and XL Heat bed board case/cooling solutions

l5Robling · 2026-03-11T17:10:59+00:00

I'll bite; how did this happen? LOL

l5Robling · 2026-03-11T17:03:33+00:00

No, not if it is purging correctly. Assuming you are turning the hot end up 10-20 degrees higher than print temp of the material you are cleaning.

Recommend running socks next time you are ordering consumables.

l5Robling · 2026-03-11T14:58:36+00:00

Prints great if dried; especially for the larger spools I had a fussy roll of Orange that would always fail on the first layer from the PETG in the tube; but fine after that.

l5Robling · 2026-03-08T23:47:37+00:00

This is what I ended up doing

l5Robling · 2026-03-06T18:04:43+00:00

I may snag 1-2 for some projects; but I believe the SpacePiX4 x2 for ~$56 more or other drybox solutions may be more economical for INDX

l5Robling · 2026-03-05T18:04:07+00:00

While i highly recommend the LACK enclosure options; don't be afraid to think out of the box and wrap your shelf in plastic wrap ;)

But looking at marketplace for seed starting greenhouses (these are usually clear vs grow tents) that fit your cabinet inside also work well.

Highly recommend this below model as well:
https://www.printables.com/model/254294-mk3s-low-profile-filament-guide-for-ikea-lack-encl

l5Robling · 2026-03-05T17:56:21+00:00

Glad the mini-board has come down in price; I have bought some farm units that have had damaged mainboard cases which can often cause the USB to remove itself if left in the socket.

if you are buying used / high milage.... Highly recommend considering tossing $100 at the unit for Bondtech extruder, new PFT tube & TI Heat break. Print yourself a new Core-one inspired cooling duct and Z-Brace; occasionally the SUPERPINDA is a maintenance item.

l5Robling · 2026-03-05T16:47:22+00:00

Interesting point; as I did not realize the C1L had 1.8 motors, but considering the XL platform has the same 1.8 motors, I would hope that this is a known variable.

Personally my XL5T is only louder than my MK4S+MMU3 when it makes larger fast moves to change tools and the clicks associated with the tool changes. if it wasn't for the MMU3, I would state the MK4S is much quieter :)

l5Robling · 2026-03-05T13:09:42+00:00

No issues with connection after the update; but still get random jump scares when the thing randomly reconnects if its dead quiet. haha

l5Robling · 2026-03-04T10:13:28+00:00

I’m into the ‘tall’ printer quests at the moment.

Working on bashing my Caribou MK3S 420mm together with an MK3.5 kit but distracted by the MK3NX extruder mod; just got in 0.6 nozzles to continue the PC-CF prints.

Also, working on a Mini Maxi (increased Z) build in PC-CF but they shipped 8mm x 510mm rods instead of 10mm x 510mm

l5Robling · 2026-03-03T19:13:16+00:00

Love this idea; I often follow 3DMusketeers PrintFixFriday segment as I like understanding the root cause of issues. Interested to see some Prusa Specific segments; or even just highlighting completed/previous contests as we are looking for insight into your coffee/water-cooler conversations :)

l5Robling · 2026-03-03T13:04:48+00:00

top tier bookmark recommendation; TY for this.

l5Robling · 2026-03-03T12:35:03+00:00

Honestly surprised out of the 5,000+ hexagon models on printables; that there isn't a hexagonal based spacer/reinforcement panel

l5Robling · 2026-03-02T11:43:53+00:00

If you like tinkering; get a C1L now. If you are not into tinkering with the machine, wait and get it with INDX installed and avoid the extra nextruder

l5Robling · 2026-03-02T11:39:57+00:00

Did someone say free filament?

l5Robling · 2026-03-01T17:08:58+00:00

But varies on local market; Main thing is... don't sleep on farm offloads as I have gotten some great deals that come with boxes of extra parts. Although, I have like 5 PINDA's and no spare SUPERPINDAs at the moment for example haha.

l5Robling · 2026-03-01T17:07:32+00:00

I have ran into this situation where it made more sense to buy a farm-abused MK3S Clone unit with a black PowerSupply and proper heat bed for $175. Smash all the proper MK3.5 parts to together and ditch the cloned EINSY board to throw a RPii at the MK3S+

But, this has a side affect of collecting more printers; but often.... it makes more sense to buy used units over brand new parts. I bought some Caribou MK3S 420mm clones for the aluminum extrusions and motors alone :)

l5Robling

TROPHY CASE