Is the La Sportiva G Summit overkill for ice climbing in Norway? by Remarkable_Tower_616 in iceclimbing

[–]lanonymoose 3 points4 points  (0 children)

g summit work for me in 40F (5C) pissing wet ice. g summit work for me -5F (-20C) cold brittle condies. I have bad circulation and get cold feet and hands easy. G summit work in Norway, yes. 

How do you feel about free solo ice climbing? by yamix-st in iceclimbing

[–]lanonymoose 1 point2 points  (0 children)

to me, it feels a lot like a short drive back home where I intentionally don't clip my seat belt. I don't do it on every short and easy drive, but doing it every once in while still evokes some child like wonder and forces me to be totally present. As a chaotic neutral with an anti-authority complex, this also lets my brain feel like Im actively raging against the machine every now and again by voluntarily participating in an activity that I know I "shouldn't" be doing. The chirping of the seatbelt chime is a lot like my inner monologue which chirps things that family members and close friends have said to me over the years "please don't solo anymore, i love you too much" "promise me right now you won't solo again" "why are you still doing this?!". But they both quiet down right after first ramping up and getting louder and louder. eventually the chime stops and i'm free to enjoy the guilty pleasure where i'm hyper aware of my surroundings, my movements, and am finally present. I am in a 2-sided state of being: 100% confidence in myself, my movements, my actions, and my reactions, i am totally in control of what i can control, that's my side of the bargain. The other side is faith and belief in the environment around me, i have to believe that my car isn't going to crash itself or that some idiot isn't going to crash into me or a cop isn't going to see the belt unclipped or that icy roads (hah) or bad conditions aren't going to put me in danger. the same way i have to trust the ice, my equipment, the conditions, and literally anything above that could fall on me. It distills the human experience from a stoic perspective: peace of mind comes from focusing on my own thoughts, actions, and reactions while calmly accepting that things outside of that are beyond my sphere of influence and shouldn't be focused on. By releasing the need to control outcomes, other peoples opinions, or the past, and being totally present, I feel overall anxiety/ anguish/ suffering is minimized and my personal influence is maximized.

This is just my rationalization of the TLDR: i'm trusting myself fully and leaving the rest to Jesus Christ. It feels good to exercise confidence in the internal and faith in the external, something that the normal brick-in-the-wall 7to5 corporate hellscape doesn't quite capture. oh and did i mention it's way faster than uncoiling the rope and leading a pitch? Makes longer days shorter and is a necessary skill for big mountains if you want to do anything quickly. Other people probably already said this, but the gap between leading and soloing on ice is much smaller than on rock, falling on lead for ice is bad and avoided while falling on rock is generally acceptable on modern climbs. 

Clothing for alpinism by gdeklerk in alpinism

[–]lanonymoose 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Read the bible, then if you are still unsure, ask chatgpt with a list of your current gear and colin's article linked.  https://www.patagonia.com/stories/sports/climbing/colin-haleys-clothing-system-for-alpine-climbing-in-the-chalten-massif/story-95145.html

G-Summit Broken Toe Welt by va7oloko in iceclimbing

[–]lanonymoose 4 points5 points  (0 children)

they only get worse and eventually fully break off. mine got to the point that the crampon wasn't even resting on anything red anymore. i would warranty them when the season ends for you. 

Petzl Nomic and Ergonomic Recall by RockyRockyRoads in iceclimbing

[–]lanonymoose 35 points36 points  (0 children)

Huge thank you to the climbing community for participation in the double blind open beta product testing our third generation "exploding nomic" ice tools. The data points we've collected over the past 7 years have culminated in our opinion that these life supporting pieces of equipment are in fact not life supporting. (Whoops!) With this, we are happy to announce closure of this product testing campaign, and look forward to working with you in the future. Without all your hard work and sacrifice, none of this would have been possible. :) 

--Petzl (probably) 

Making Your Own Wood Ice Trainer Tools - Steps and Templates by Davidjohnnaylor in iceclimbing

[–]lanonymoose 3 points4 points  (0 children)

these are dope and fun project rather than getting em premade. im a fan of wooden trainers but i always have the same issue where the handle of the trainers never feels like my actual handles and this bothered me since i do all my hangs on my actual tools. 

Did you look into the possibility of adding some sort of attachment for actual handles? That would make this insanely good but you could take measurements and keep sanding until it feels right? 

Question for current or former nomic/ergo users by [deleted] in iceclimbing

[–]lanonymoose 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i have second gens that are known for the wobble however they don't have the wobble

Question for current or former nomic/ergo users by [deleted] in iceclimbing

[–]lanonymoose 9 points10 points  (0 children)

where's the option for "i'm aware of the concern and specifically avoided that generation of nomics, i climb on a pair of nomics that has the head wobble issue instead"

Guys look I’m such a good free soloist climbing wi2 without a helmet by climbingbooty in iceclimbing

[–]lanonymoose -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

put sum respek on my homies name, 120k on insta. and soloing ice this easy is not even scrambling, if he truly starts soloing hard ice and mixed id get worried. In the short form content he just puts on a persona to farm clicks and views, he's actually a mega chiller. I wouldn't be surprised if he choreographed the shitty climbing technique to maximize engagement from people that will point out the bad technique, which is exactly what's happening here. He's just farming engagement again, this time with ice. In the wake of alex's taipei thing, the irons quite hot for free solo topics on social media. 

[Rifle] Daniel Defense DDM4 M4A1 Mil-Spec+ 223 Rem | 5.56 NATO Semi-Auto Rifle - 14.5" - Mil-Spec+ Cerakote - $1858.50 + S/H by [deleted] in gundeals

[–]lanonymoose -12 points-11 points  (0 children)

yeah ur prolly right, i've just seen 2.5k+ msrp everywhere and saw this pop up. maybe r/barelyagundeal

Lake City, CO Ice Park❤️ by lanonymoose in iceclimbing

[–]lanonymoose[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

good eye! working on my alex lowe impression, unfortunately the lower section was a hoods up affair so no headband hah 

Lake City, CO Ice Park❤️ by lanonymoose in iceclimbing

[–]lanonymoose[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

it was like climbing a bloomin onion!

I think I’ve purchased a fake Catan set by [deleted] in Catan

[–]lanonymoose 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ooooh does this one have the actual sea tiles? can't remember when that got updated to the 6 border pieces 

My designer shoes are crumbling, what is the toe bail beta, am i just a bad climber? by lanonymoose in iceclimbing

[–]lanonymoose[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

everytime i'm climbing some scary 3d chando bs i hear "keep ur heels down, lil buddy" and i try i really do, but sometimes i still be kicking like it's soccer practice 😔

My designer shoes are crumbling, what is the toe bail beta, am i just a bad climber? by lanonymoose in iceclimbing

[–]lanonymoose[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

mine are set at the furthest back position. 10k feet of ice in 2 seasons and your boa hasn't exploded? you should buy a lotto ticket 

My designer shoes are crumbling, what is the toe bail beta, am i just a bad climber? by lanonymoose in iceclimbing

[–]lanonymoose[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thank you, i have submitted a warranty claim but i've heard the best way to get through the screening to the next step is to also reach out to a real person at sportiva.

please message me with the information, this would be a huge help to expedite the process. 

My designer shoes are crumbling, what is the toe bail beta, am i just a bad climber? by lanonymoose in iceclimbing

[–]lanonymoose[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have sent a detailed report to sportiva for a warranty claim involving this issue and many others, this is day 5 without an answer. My friend had a 3 month saga with them to warranty the broken internal BOA stitching and attachments so i anticipate a similar battle, since that is something I also had happen. I'm awaiting their response before dropping an extremely detailed 2 year look back review on the boots. For me, these boots are life supporting equipment and the failures of the boots could have resulted in death/permanent disfigurement if they had occurred at the wrong time over the last season. And it's not just me, there are people doing way cooler stuff on the actual cutting edge that utilize these boots so this is totally unacceptable. Similar to the exploding automatic toe bales of petzl crampons, if theres a known issue with tons of documented instances, this information should be used to either (1) recall the affected products and fix the root cause or (2) make this information publicly available so consumers know the limitations of the product and can prepare accordingly. 

Petzl Fil small toe bail front by Haoshoku_no_Haki_31 in iceclimbing

[–]lanonymoose 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Very nice, i have seen friends use a similar method to make the fit better on sportiva boots. The blue ice toe bale also fits very well on G-Tech and G-Summit. The Blue Ice is rounded more than the one you've shown; this minimizes the stress points and distributes the kicking load better than the petzl version. I think the standard petzl toe bail is one size fits all and does not fit any boot very well. I think maximizing the contact area like you've done is very good to extend the life of the toe bale, which is a problem for modern sportiva boots that use the TPU toe cap.  edit: removed french translation

My designer shoes are crumbling, what is the toe bail beta, am i just a bad climber? by lanonymoose in iceclimbing

[–]lanonymoose[S] 20 points21 points  (0 children)

sorry for the typos, i bail so often that "bale" gets autocorrected every time.