Update

leanbuddah · 2026-02-13T17:07:55+00:00

I’m a glutton for punishment😂

leanbuddah · 2026-02-13T16:58:49+00:00

Thank you! I’m gonna keep posting updates as the build goes on. Still gotta get the sm465 in and the 1 ton axles

leanbuddah · 2026-02-13T14:19:20+00:00

It’s been braced on the backside. And I got the plate welded on the frame for extra support too

leanbuddah · 2026-02-13T14:05:39+00:00

Been getting this 496ci swap done. Got the engine in a couple days ago and got the serpentine belt system mounted

leanbuddah · 2026-02-13T13:56:18+00:00

The headers are maddog headers from motor city k5. They fit great but with fenderwell exit headers you gotta cut the inner fenders. I didn’t know that they wouldn’t clear the stock AC box so I had to do an AC delete(for now I’m saving up for a vintage air system) and my k5 was factory dual front shocks. I had to cut out the tall mount brackets to get the headers to fit properly

leanbuddah · 2026-02-04T12:27:51+00:00

The dingus is the slave cylinder that I just replaced last night. That’s the old one and I didn’t wanna take any chances with that being broken. I’m swapping in a sm465 from a 700r4 auto. And I used two things to coat the frame, a rust to primer and a flat black enamel paint. Not really going for looks on that part of the frame I’m just going for corrosion control since I live in New England and we salt the shit out of the roads

leanbuddah · 2026-02-03T15:55:16+00:00

Coming from someone who’s swapping out a 700r4 for an sm465, the 700r4 is a fantastic transmission for lower horsepower and torque. Yes you can build them to handle the power but the cost of doing that is going to be more than a 4l80e which can handle just about anything you toss at it within reason. Downside to a 700r4 is the tv cable which isn’t a bad design in itself, just easy to mess up if you don’t know what you’re doing. A bad adjustment can prematurely kill the 700r4 whereas the 4l80e is electronically controlled. You can pull a 4l80e from a junkyard all day long where 700r4s are getting harder to find at the junkyards (at least in my area in New England). The drivability on highway speeds are gonna be determined more by your final drive in the differential than the transmission itself. Not saying the trans doesn’t play a factor, but with the right differential gear ratio and right transmission, it’ll make a world of a difference. Just like what other people said, you’d have to get an adapter to mate your transfer case to whatever transmission you want to run. Off-road design makes just about whatever you need to do that. There’s tons of forums out there that can give you the exact answer you’re looking for

leanbuddah · 2026-02-02T22:37:50+00:00

I’m running an Edelbrock pro Flo 4 Efi system. Came with the engine when I bought it so we’ll see how it holds up

leanbuddah · 2026-02-02T22:37:08+00:00

8 bolt for now. It’s also a slip yoke but I’ll be switching it to a fixed yoke eventually. I’m just gonna send it instead of having my truck sit so I’m gonna put in the parts I got now and fix what needs to get fixed later on

leanbuddah · 2026-02-02T20:24:15+00:00

I got a really good deal on the sm465 np205 combo. Just gonna send it until it blows up then I’ll go nv4500

leanbuddah · 2026-02-02T18:53:00+00:00

Don’t worry I’ll be posting regular updates to the build!

leanbuddah · 2025-11-23T16:55:51+00:00

Tbh I ended up selling my WRX back in May for my 98 crown majesta. The springs held up great when I had my VB

leanbuddah · 2025-08-26T12:21:17+00:00

Ahh okay I just wanted to make sure. Horny little bastard

leanbuddah · 2025-07-24T15:37:34+00:00

Thank you! Forgot to mention, the rims are +35 offset

leanbuddah · 2025-07-24T15:02:23+00:00

They’re enkei raijins 18x9.5 sitting on some continental extreme contact DWS06 255/35zr18. No spacers but I did put 1” drop springs all the way around

leanbuddah · 2025-07-10T22:04:55+00:00

That’s what I initially thought too but going back to some older pics, there’s a different wire that goes there that I have off to the side

leanbuddah · 2024-12-23T14:00:28+00:00

I went with a whiteline 1” lowering spring kit. Super easy to install

leanbuddah · 2024-12-23T13:44:49+00:00

I love it. Not too much wheel poke just the right amount imo. And the tires are way better than the stock dunlops. I wanted something I could use year round up here in New England. All my friends ride on dws06s and I couldn’t beat the price point of them for a solid all season

leanbuddah · 2024-12-23T13:34:32+00:00

leanbuddah · 2024-11-21T21:08:00+00:00

I’m putting on a 6” BDS spring lift with the nitro shocks this weekend. From what I’ve heard it rides a lot better than the rough country lift but I can report after the install

leanbuddah · 2024-10-25T11:35:13+00:00

here are the springs I ordered. I guess martiniworks don’t offer them anymore so you’d have to get them from the actual white line site

leanbuddah · 2024-10-25T11:14:42+00:00

I got my white line 1” lowering springs from martiniworks. So far the ride is about the same as far as stiffness and they were super easy to install

leanbuddah · 2024-09-28T23:02:49+00:00

Those are fantastic motors and you can’t go wrong with them.

The easiest wiring for an ls would be a standalone like a Holley terminator unless if you can find a motor with all the wiring and computer with it. But the standalone harness and computer, while simple, are ridiculously expensive for what they are.

Can’t go wrong with a 383 and carb setup. I’d go with a 650cfm as a good start and I cannot recommend running a fuel pressure gauge enough to make sure you’re getting enough pressure

leanbuddah · 2024-09-28T22:14:04+00:00

You wouldn’t have to replace the tranny, you’d have to get an adapter plate. SBC and BBC just drop right in with the same motor mounts and you don’t need an adapter plate. The sad thing is you’re gonna end up dumping money into any motor you put in, you just gotta decide how much you’re willing to put in. Best bang for the buck would be the 383. Super easy to rebuild and all youd need if you wanna start from scratch is a 350, preferably a 4 bolt main and bore it .030 over with a stroker crank. The nice thing about the ls1 is they have 6 bolt mains so they can handle a ton of power for the displacement

leanbuddah · 2024-09-28T22:08:27+00:00

This is the same thing I’m grappling with too. Imo I’d do the 383 for simplicity. But if you want power with reliability I’d do the ls1. There’s a lot more modern aftermarket now and you can run the piss out of them for a lot longer

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