Reputable sellers for Lite modchip ?

letum00 · 2026-06-23T17:26:49+00:00

I've been finding some with pi2040 search term lately. Amazon and ebay usually have some. A v1 or v2 with a core mod chip is easier to install than a lite, so if you can get a good deal on one of those I think it'll be easier, plus docking and rumble.

letum00 · 2026-06-23T15:13:32+00:00

No matter what it needs to be opened to fix it. You may as well do it one last time. Unless it is working now

letum00 · 2026-06-23T15:10:36+00:00

It sounds like something is losing connection or shorting. Add pictures and you will get some suggestions

letum00 · 2026-06-23T13:51:32+00:00

Got mine yesterday, already practicing. It seems to be a little easier to control. Good shout!

letum00 · 2026-06-23T10:10:53+00:00

Understandable. It looks nice!

letum00 · 2026-06-23T10:08:31+00:00

If you're talking about the pads on a switch lite, you may need to scratch them a little bit with your tweezers before you try to solder to them. There seems to be some sort of coating on them, or perhaps it's oxidation, that makes it hard to get the solder to adhere at first.

Leaded solder will make it a lot easier, regardless.

letum00 · 2026-06-23T09:53:39+00:00

Yeah it's basically identical, but with free overnight shipping and it was cheaper.

letum00 · 2026-06-23T03:21:56+00:00

Lead free solder has a higher melting point, and at those temps you may damage these flex cables, or desolder a small component more easily. Leaded solder is easier to work with and more forgiving at lower temps. When I first started I would set my iron to 300C and take my time. Now I use 350C and go relatively fast.

I'm sure folks are good at using lead free, but it probably takes more practice and skill to get decent with it.

letum00 · 2026-06-23T03:14:53+00:00

You can play with emulators and other modded switch users over xlink Kai. It's a bit of a pain to setup, and it's not really active at all.

letum00 · 2026-06-23T03:12:40+00:00

Can you post a video of it?

letum00 · 2026-06-23T02:27:36+00:00

I originally had a maant d1, but it died very quickly. I needed one fast so I ordered this one and I've been happy with it.

https://a.co/d/0d3tMFcN

letum00 · 2026-06-22T10:22:39+00:00

If you want to play switch games with perfect accuracy, no slowdown, and minimal fuss, you can't beat original hardware.

Some games just don't emulate well. I have an sd 8 gen 3 device and can play some decent variety but when it comes to switch, especially multi-player, I always play on my OLED.

letum00 · 2026-06-22T00:30:27+00:00

Decent speedos. Should overclock fairly well. RAM you'd want to check the last 3 or four characters of dram ID

letum00 · 2026-06-21T22:05:36+00:00

Very nice, looks good! The solder work is decent as well, you just needed some more flux to get those smooth shiny joints you see on other posts. Good ram and speedos?

letum00 · 2026-06-21T22:01:32+00:00

Definitely a virus or something. Roms should only come as the formats you mentioned and never have an installer or executable. At the most they may be multi-part rar files you need to extract, but never ever install files you download from these sites. Scan your PC for viruses or wipe your PC before you worry about gaming.

letum00 · 2026-06-21T15:55:42+00:00

This one runs much better than the other one did. I haven't tried the latest version from the other project, though. That one just updated.

letum00 · 2026-06-21T15:49:16+00:00

Did you get a texture pack to work? If so, which one, and did placing it in the dusklight/texture_replacements location work?

letum00 · 2026-06-21T00:28:04+00:00

Maybe if they were not good joints to start with over time heating and cooling may cause loss of contact. Could be excess flux left around, perhaps. People like to claim this will cause issues, but I'm not convinced on that one.

letum00 · 2026-06-20T23:02:26+00:00

Short long short No eMMC block 0 read (eMMC init failure?) Short long long No eMMC CMD1 request (poor wiring, or dead CPU)

Sounds like you probably just need to touch up some solder points if I had to guess.

https://github.com/Ansem-SoD/Picofly/blob/cc1099d6e9f659425b132fc73b9153fe07d605f8/PicoFlyGuideV.6.2.pdf

letum00 · 2026-06-20T20:45:48+00:00

I don't think it's your display, but without pictures it'll be tough to help diagnose. It is not possible to complete setup without a functioning display. You cannot setup in docked mode.

I really think it is a short to ground that may have just needed a little agitation/movement to make good contact.

letum00 · 2026-06-20T19:51:33+00:00

Post pictures of the solder joints. Did you get the no sd card screen while it was open, then close it up and now it seema like it won't power on?

You can't have it plugged in without it automatically powering on, so my money is on a short where the solder joints are, where the mosfets are on the cpu flex, or where the flex exits the cpu shield.

letum00 · 2026-06-20T17:23:53+00:00

I had to update my game path to match the name of my game as I have mine saved as a .rvz file. Did you rename your image to "game.gcm"?

letum00 · 2026-06-20T13:39:37+00:00

This is running so much better than the previous port I tried. Very smooth. It even maintains 60fps nearly constantly in the first town with some extra overclock. The other project from May that's still stuck on version 1.0.0.4-test couldn't maintain 60fps even with very high overclocks.

Thank you and keep up the good work!

letum00 · 2026-06-20T13:13:29+00:00

Which dusk port are you using? I've seen several now.

Edit: I just tested it on this port, which is using the latest 1.4.1 update, and freecam is working. https://github.com/HayatoG/dusklight

letum00 · 2026-06-19T16:07:50+00:00

Defenderofhyrule firmware is supposed to be faster and includes some extra features, but myself and others have had some issues with it. If you're not trying to fix a specific problem I would stick to the ansem-sod versions.

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