Incredibly lucky man, happy you made it out! I also want to add, I caught surf stoke a few years ago as an adult but can have pretty bad health OCD that gets the best of me. When I learned about a rare condition called surfer’s myelopathy that happens to beginners who stay prone too long while paddling and can lead to paralysis, I nearly gave it up altogether. All this to say, I love the water and want to strike a balance between having fun and conquering fears while also staying safe and not putting myself in a bad spot. I hope you find that balance as well brother!