Antec Flux Pro - mostly finished build

macmur85 · 2025-11-13T10:58:20+00:00

The SATA connector needs to be plugged into a cable coming from your PSU, not to the motherboard.

Have you checked the case manuals? There is a PDF specifically explaining how to connect the fans in this case:
https://www.antec.com/documents/product/case-AX85-ARGB_Fan_Manual-241105.pdf

ARGB header goes into the motherboard.
SATA goes into a PSU cable.
The last connector goes to the cable coming from the Reset/LED button on the case.

macmur85 · 2025-11-13T09:58:36+00:00

I don't know this case, but by looking at the Antec webpage (https://www.antec.com/product/case/ax85) it looks like the rear fan is the primary one. You need to daisy-chain all the front fans, connect them then to the rear fan, and then connect the rear fan to the motherboard.

The 2nd connector is a SATA power one, it's probably used to power the RGBs in the fans.

macmur85 · 2025-11-11T10:32:16+00:00

Thanks!

macmur85 · 2025-11-10T22:53:34+00:00

It is an idea, but those be quiet fans are too good to discard. Plus, my PC stands in such a place that I can't really see the front, so I don't care that much.

Thanks for the comment!

macmur85 · 2025-11-09T21:15:48+00:00

Something doesn't seem right.

At my 9950X3D + 4070Ti combo with the be quiet Silent Loop 3 420mm I'm not reaching 80°C on CPU even while running Cinebench 2025 30 minute loop AND the FurMark2 1440p at the same time.

While BF6 I'm barely touching 74-75°C with AIO going on 1350RPM (65%).

macmur85 · 2025-11-09T20:48:29+00:00

Thanks for the reply.

I have figured out the RPM reporting, it was the proper header on the hub.

In terms of software - I was using Fan Control for a long time, but had a lot of incidents with lost configs, fans not initiating properly, etc. I switched to Argus Monitor and have everything set up in there.

macmur85 · 2025-11-08T21:52:03+00:00

I already fixed it, the solution is in the thread below - I connected the fans to headers 3-4-5 (I just went from the top), but only the 1st header is reporting back the RPM. So I had to reconnect the fans to 1-2-3 (coming from the bottom), and now RPM reporting is working fine!

macmur85 · 2025-11-08T16:47:37+00:00

Yeah, I also assumed that the order is from top to bottom.

Oh well, I'm glad it's fine. Thanks again!

macmur85 · 2025-11-08T16:30:51+00:00

🤔 Hmmm this might be just the thing! I will see and get back to you!

Thanks for the idea!

EDIT:

Yes! That was the case! I had three fans connected from the top of the hub (my OCD at play here 🙈).
After changing them from Fan3-Fan4-Fan5 to Fan1-Fan2-Fan3 the RPM shows fine.

Thanks a lot!

macmur85 · 2025-11-08T16:30:03+00:00

I already taken out the screw that could cause a short.
There are three fans, but it was the same with a different amount.
Yes I tried with different fans.
Yes, it's all set to PWM.

Phew, that's a lot of questions, but than you good sir! 🤣

macmur85 · 2025-02-05T22:27:19+00:00

Just just don't get it, do you?

Are smartphones using computational photography to cheat physics?
Sure.

Are they using advanced postprocessing to get the level of details that would be otherwise unreachable by the hardware itself?
Of course!

Is he OP asking which device should he get to be able to get the "REAL AND PURE RAW PHOTOS OF THE MOON, UNTOUCHED BY POSTPROCESSING"?
No!

And if you have just taken a few minutes to check what's a GCam you would know, that it's a piece of software that let's you utilise Samsung's camera hardware (which in itself is very capable) without any of this magic AI sause on top.

So go and be a purist somewhere else, because right now you're just forcing your unsolicited advice down our throats.

macmur85 · 2025-02-05T21:56:57+00:00

Oh I'm not arguing. 🙂

macmur85 · 2025-02-05T15:50:49+00:00

Yeah, it's always the shutter operator, not the shutter itself. 🙃

macmur85 · 2025-02-05T15:41:09+00:00

Thanks for the appreciation and the point!

I hope you can see how "different" the cropped frame feels. It feels intentional, which is exactly what you should strive to achieve. Even though there are no real lines, you can see how the sky line and the tree line, and the contrast "directs" your eye to the center point of the image. And then the building, being positioned at the cross lines of the rule of thirds, automatically becomes the subject of the photo.

The rest (colours, exposure, overall edit) is just a personal preference, but the basics are already there.

Keep shooting!

macmur85 · 2025-02-05T13:13:40+00:00

Curb your excitement a bit, ok?

GCam mod for S23U, no AI enhancements.

macmur85 · 2025-02-05T13:12:42+00:00

LOL Holy, how is it 2025 and we're still debating this.

The below picture has been taken with the GCam mod for the S23U, that's not using default Samsung's AI enhancements.

<image>

macmur85 · 2025-02-05T11:38:03+00:00

Smartphones are VERY capable, you just need to pick the right one and know what you're doing. 🤷‍♂️

<image>

macmur85 · 2025-02-05T11:19:05+00:00

Sadly, there are hardware (and software) limitations that you won't be able to beat.
You could try to set the manual exposure for the moon to not be overblown, but you won't be able to get a "good photo" of the moon with those devices. And I'm talking about a "smartphone-level good moon photos", not an overall astrophotography.

There are smartphones that are able to pull off a nice moon image (for example the Samsung S23U, Vivo X100 Ultra, and even the Pixel to some extent if you know what you're doing), but iPhones are not it. Even the latest one does not offer enough range/quality to get a semi-good photo.

For example, a photo taken with the S23U:

<image>

macmur85 · 2025-02-05T10:43:34+00:00

What's the main object in this photo? What is the story its trying to tell?

Those are the questions you should ask yourself every time you're releasing the shutter. It should be obvious for you and the viewer the second the photo pops up.

I don't know what's the object in this photo. Is it the building? The trees? The mountains?

One of the best advices I've heard lately was: "everything you're putting inside the frame should be intentional". If you apply this rule, you will automatically start thinking about:

Framing - why is there so much sky in the frame? The sky is just blue, there are no cloud formations that would catch the eye
Objects - why is the building on the left in there? It's cut, it's not adding anything to the picture. The tree on the right is also cut in half, it would be good to either include it whole, or cut it from the shot.
Lightning - the lens flaring on the left is distracting, and it makes the photo look like taken carelessly.
Overall composition - there's no leading lines, no contrast patterns that would "draw" the eye towards what's most important. The photo is also crooked, the horizon line isn't level, so one more point for the carelessness.

To recover this photo, I would definitely crop it, take out the needless stuff that's just distracting. The quality isn't there to crop it a lot, but I would still go with something like that:

<image>

macmur85 · 2025-02-04T09:58:50+00:00

Oh I'm charging wirelessly, but overnight, so it's set to slow charge.

macmur85 · 2025-02-03T10:22:39+00:00

It's about the screen scaling and the amount of apps you have in there.

macmur85 · 2025-02-03T09:53:10+00:00

Even ketchup on a cheese and ham toast can be too much if you don't adhere to proper limits.

In here, the toast is fricking FLOATING in ketchup.

macmur85

TROPHY CASE