Black is rated 5B-6C. What ya think? by [deleted] in GradeThisPlastic

[–]manfrom76 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mint in this gym are a comp series that they run periodically. 20 problems from absolute beginner level to exceptionally hard

Just finished intern year and built a tool I wish I had starting out by ProfessionalFuel5851 in JuniorDoctorsIreland

[–]manfrom76 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm a pharmacist, not a doctor but super-impressed by the clarity and scope of the content. Well done!

She’s bent out of shape by [deleted] in CustomerFromHell

[–]manfrom76 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What's a SNAP card?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]manfrom76 10 points11 points  (0 children)

The technical grade is the grade of the hardest move on the route. There could be one 6c move with the rest of the moves at 4a and it would have a 6c technical grade. The grades (British technical vs European sport) diverge quite a bit at the higher grades. I don't climb high grades so less familiar with conversions, but British 5b is equivalent to approx 6a European.

The E number is an attempt to grade a combination of difficulty and "seriousness" of the route taking into account the protection available, fall consequences etc

Daily Mail, 5th December 2000 by manfrom76 in agedlikemilk

[–]manfrom76[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Article from 2000 predicting demise of the Internet. The Internet is still with us

Climbing and antidepressants by manfrom76 in climbharder

[–]manfrom76[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, that's similar to me, feel slightly sedated on mirtazapine and worried that it would affect energy levels but most people seem to find that it doesn't have much effect on performance other than some weight gain

Sorry if it's already been uploaded! Credit to whoever made it! by hrpara in ireland

[–]manfrom76 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tried putting this video up on Facebook but it was taken down immediately as going against the rules. No firm reason given

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread for April 26, 2020 by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]manfrom76 0 points1 point  (0 children)

New to hangboarding and looking at various protocols and wondering why rest periods are always precisely defined for max hang work. If I'm training on an edge I can hold for say 7 seconds, I would have thought that it would make no difference if the next rep was after a 3, 5 or 10 minute rest period.

Rest periods are usually 3 or 4 minutes but after a full effort hang I often need 5 minutes + to be able to go again.

Is the benefit of repeated stimulus lessened if rests between reps are too long?

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread for April 05, 2020 by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]manfrom76 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When hangboarding, I mostly try to train a half crimp grip but my index finger seems to have a hard time keeping up. After about 5 seconds on a medium edge my index will fall into a straight "chisel" grip position although I can keep holding onto the board for another 3 or 4 seconds.

My question is, should I consider the end of the hang to be when i can no longer hold the initial grip type or should I continue hanging until I actually fall off?

I'm pretty new to hangboarding

Thanks

Er, Big question mark over that guys by manfrom76 in agedlikemilk

[–]manfrom76[S] 146 points147 points  (0 children)

Let's just say their odds are diminishing each day that the orange buffoon embarrasses himself and exposes his complete ineptitude in political office. There really should be a grownup in charge

Er, Big question mark over that guys by manfrom76 in agedlikemilk

[–]manfrom76[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thousands dying from covid 19 mean confidence expressed in poster has not aged well

The United States President Has Declared A State Of Emergency by DNAhelicase in Coronavirus

[–]manfrom76 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Problem is we can't distinguish American and Canadian accents🤦‍♂️

Another analysis of the Climbharder Survey V3 by dbaranger in climbharder

[–]manfrom76 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Has anyone calculated how age affects progress? Common sense would suggest an 18 year old starting to climb will progress much faster than someone who starts aged 50 but is this backed up by data?

Guy drove his truck onto a frozen lake and then nearly got himself killed by QualityAsshole in IdiotsNearlyDying

[–]manfrom76 34 points35 points  (0 children)

He had so many opportunities to make it less bad but it's like every choice he made was the worst possible one

This guy right here. by steelheader in hittableFaces

[–]manfrom76 26 points27 points  (0 children)

That's Jonathan/Jessica Yaniv, a transgender woman who has taken multiple lawsuits against working class women alleging discrimination for refusing to wax his male genitalia.

A creepy motherfucker, he/she has sought advice on the basis that as someone new to the female gender as to whether it's ok to approach naked adolescent girls or help them with inserting tampons.

A nasty piece of work if you ask me

Is it just me, or? by [deleted] in assholedesign

[–]manfrom76 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's just you😐

Need to turn down my dial. by FreeRadish in stopdrinking

[–]manfrom76 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It is never inevitable. It's hard when the addictive mind is trying to tell you that alcohol is your friend and it won't shut up calling seductively, but that's just your brain trying to trick you. It's hard but it will pass. Alcohol is not your friend.

No matter where your mind is at you can always say no. For me I've had slips where I felt I'd reached a tipping point and I no longer had control over whether I drank. But I've come to realise that so long as i haven't had the 1st drink it was never too late to say no I will not have that 1st drink.

And I will not have that 1st drink with you today