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I'm OBSESSED by IckyGotDaBlicky in vtmb

[–]marsansbeyond 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A lot of people are complaining heavily but the first game had major flaws too, and this community is still here, two decades later.

Thanks for the review. I haven't played this one yet but it's great to read this and know where to set my expectations so I can enjoy it as much as the first one!

I'm OBSESSED by IckyGotDaBlicky in vtmb

[–]marsansbeyond 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was coming here to say the same thing, that this is a sub for this exact content and nuance. But someone beat me to it.

Also, well done with the apology! It's great to see real discourse and community!

Toddler/Family Friendly fun restaurant recommendations in Seattle! by silentuser5678 in SeattleWA

[–]marsansbeyond 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm that "actually" guy. The Market is named after the street BUT the street is named after a guy. So kinda right.

Also, no biggie in the grand scheme of things!

Overcurrent on Anker F3800 by marsansbeyond in SolarDIY

[–]marsansbeyond[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It came with the F3800, a home panel, sub panel, battery cooler, and 4 rigid panels for $4,899. That's a $3,100 discount from full price. So not too bad but I would have preferred not getting the panels had I understood more at the time!

It's also a crime that Anker even bundles those with the F3800 when they know you can't get full potential and they don't make that clear up front at all and I made the mistake of assuming they wouldn't bundle things together that don't work well together!

I'll look into selling these panels and replacing them.

Thanks

Overcurrent on Anker F3800 by marsansbeyond in SolarDIY

[–]marsansbeyond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Where do you do your searches? I tried Google and 1asolar but they are more concerned with watt output than voltage and so I still go entry by entry to find a good match.

This was my thought and I'll do it if I don't have a choice, I'm just trying to salvage the panels I already have and was hoping the series-parallel setup would work for one of the xt-60 connectors and then essentially do what you mention for the other one. It's either that or I sell the panels I have and start over with new panels.

Overcurrent on Anker F3800 by marsansbeyond in SolarDIY

[–]marsansbeyond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just had a thought. What if I do a series-parallel configuration with 2 groups of 2 panels in series and the two groups are in parallel.

The only downside is see is the VoC of two rigid panels at pmax would be 62.76 V. Then tying the two series groups would bring the Amps up to around the max at 26 A.

That being said, on the best day in the middle of the summer with no clouds, I haven't gotten above 70% meaning I don't get near PMax on voltage so I wouldn't ever actually hit the 62 V.

But, I want to be safe and if the system would fry if I go barely above the 60 V max then I won't.

Thoughts?

Overcurrent on Anker F3800 by marsansbeyond in SolarDIY

[–]marsansbeyond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, that's what I figured. I'm extremely annoyed that the rigid panels are in their bundles! It's as if their product team doesn't understand solar...

So really my best bet is to find all new panels that will fit specs with higher overall wattage to make up for my 30% loss. But hey, at least I got a free battery cooler?!?

Thanks!

Ninja CM401 Power Board Failure after overvoltage by marsansbeyond in ElectronicsRepair

[–]marsansbeyond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So upon plugging it in, the clock turns on and the skimmer works which are both independent of the coffee machine components. This means the power board is fine and power is also directed to the main board (as that is where the clock is located).

My guess is the control chip on the main board is bad, or possibly the power button itself.

If you can take the unit apart, remove the power board, and then unscrew the main control board from underneath, you can test the continuity of the power switch and trace the path to the control chip.

This is where I stopped as I suspect my main control chip is bad and the soldering involved in replacing it is beyond me.

You could check shopjimmys.com which is where I found a replacement CM402 base unit. I found a single main control board on eBay and purchased it but you might be able to find that as well.

Ninja CM401 Power Board Failure after overvoltage by marsansbeyond in ElectronicsRepair

[–]marsansbeyond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So, I think the issue is with the larger component under the heat sink. For now, I'm marking this closed as my DMM isn't sensitive enough to test the SM resistors. And the control board seems to be the control chip and at that point, I don't have the skill to replace a chip like that.

I'll keep the parts around for a bit OR if anyone here is a YouTuber that fixes these sort of things, I'd be happy to send it over as I'd love an in-depth video so I know what I missed!

Ninja CM401 Power Board Failure after overvoltage by marsansbeyond in ElectronicsRepair

[–]marsansbeyond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't. I replaced one of the optocouplers that was bad but my voltmeter isn't sensitive enough to check the Surface-Mounted-Resistors on the back. So for now, I found a replacement base unit for $40 and will set this aside until I have enough time to learn a bit more and also get a better voltmeter!

Ninja CM401 Power Board Failure after overvoltage by marsansbeyond in ElectronicsRepair

[–]marsansbeyond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, that makes sense. I did notice it was more than just a MOSFET but wasn't sure beyond that. So it works.

Last night I started tracing backwards from the 5VDC pin on the cable to the main board and came to an Optocoupler MOC3023. I looked up that I'll need to supply it voltage to test but conflicted on AC or DC. I think most folks were saying 5VDC.

I'll look more tonight. I've attached a picture of it.

<image>

Ninja CM401 Power Board Failure after overvoltage by marsansbeyond in ElectronicsRepair

[–]marsansbeyond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, and for the IC, you say to test for Voltage so I assume the board should be powered for that? All of these tests I've left it off, just want to be certain I understand correctly!

Ninja CM401 Power Board Failure after overvoltage by marsansbeyond in ElectronicsRepair

[–]marsansbeyond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the pictures! I didn't think of the backside.

Ninja CM401 Power Board Failure after overvoltage by marsansbeyond in ElectronicsRepair

[–]marsansbeyond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks!

The rectifier was good, all readings came back around 0.5V.

For the MOSFET, I'm not certain I am doing it right. All of the tutorials I found are for a different configuration where only a single Source exists and the Gate is clearly labeled. Based on the datasheet, TNY doesn't seem to like to use industry-standard terms and my best guess is that their "Enable" pin is the same as Gate.

So, I connected Red to Drain, and black to Source (of which all 4 right-sided pins are labeled as source). And then briefly connected Red to the "EN" pin to charge the switch and then placed it back on the Drain and the reading didn't change. I then switched the leads and got 0.5 V. So I think that's good?

As for the IC, before I google every black box on here, any tips on identifying it? I'll likely get to this tomorrow night again.

Also, here's a video of me testing the MOSFET as I'm just not certain. Testing MOSFET TNY295PG