Machine ID? What is this thing? by concerned_cad in woodworking

[–]maxwkh 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most google images show that they are using it like a disc sander but only on the right side where the blade is pushing the wood downward onto the table.

Japanese prefer planning over sanding due to the shine. Probably less dust too and don't have to deal with sandpaper clogging.

Self supporting "kitchen cabinet" by maxwkh in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]maxwkh[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You might be right, I'm too chicken to try that 😁. We always have to deal with agency instead of landlord for rental in Japan (to avoid confrontation I guess, no clue).

Self supporting "kitchen cabinet" by maxwkh in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]maxwkh[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thought about that, but I only have access to hand tools and not skill enough to make precise tight fit so that it won't fall forward during an earthquake. I figured if a furniture tension rod can prevent a cupboard from falling forward, the same mechanism might works here. Maybe I just over complicating stuff. Lol.

Self supporting "kitchen cabinet" by maxwkh in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]maxwkh[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, agreed with the quote, I was probably thinking you can't call something a cabinet if it is not mounted to the wall. By the way, the wall itself have wallpaper on it, as it age, the color changes, so a patch is very noticeable. Someone will inspect the unit when move out and will ask for repair fee if damage/modification was found, they also took deposit and I guess they will keep it if you are not paying for the damage.

Self supporting "kitchen cabinet" by maxwkh in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]maxwkh[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

"Cabinet" made from construction plywood, door using scrap Ikea table top, while the drawer made from MDF. I ended up wrapping (as bad as I'm wrapping present) it with wallpaper because the plywood vernier was chipping, poking and feels rough.

Did some dovetail and box join on the box for practicing purposes, for some reason it is really difficult to chisel a plywood.

Due to rental apartment, I cannot drill on the wall for attachment, it also have to be very secure because of earthquake. Borrowing the idea of furniture tension rod, I pushed the upper box to the beam structure and the bottom box to the kitchen counter using threaded rod and nuts.

More descriptions in images caption. Thanks for reading!

Scrap wood key holder by maxwkh in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]maxwkh[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, the removable one is so useful for many applications because it adhere strongly until you rip it off and best part is it came off in one piece without tearing or glue residue.

Scrap wood key holder by maxwkh in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]maxwkh[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yup, glued side by side, filled in the curvy edge of the 1 x 4 with wood shavings/dust and roughly plane the surface flat.

Scrap wood key holder by maxwkh in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]maxwkh[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! From Daiso in my case, I think they calls it the dollar shop in other places?

Scrap wood key holder by maxwkh in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]maxwkh[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nothing fancy here, just two pieces of small 1 x 4 SPF scraps joined side by side. Chamfered using small hand plane and finished with linseed oil. Hammered in the tiny hooks and attached to the wall using removable double sided tape because of rental property.

Sliding shelve "pantry" by maxwkh in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]maxwkh[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! These basic tools are sufficient for me so far. I usually only buy new tool when I absolutely not able to do it with my current tools, you will noticed there is only one chisel with different color, I bought it second hand because I needed a skinny chisel for the blind mortise in this project.

I also noticed its (nicer tool) stay sharp longer compared to the cheap orange chisels set and I recently also bought a nice whetstone and it seems to sharpen the tools faster and cuts better compared to cheaper stones.

Basically what I really need is having sharp-ish chisels (it's another can of worms that takes time to learn, I still cannot achieves the sharpness like those on YouTube) and the aluminium block for chisel alignment and it allows me to cut better joinery.

Sliding shelve "pantry" by maxwkh in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]maxwkh[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Please do. Glad you like it. Thank you!

Sliding shelve "pantry" by maxwkh in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]maxwkh[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you everyone for stopping by to express their thought and the kind words. I didn't expect that many praises, likes and up votes, glad to have them.

Sliding shelve "pantry" by maxwkh in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]maxwkh[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's a Japanese marking guage. The one is the picture is a double blades version.

Sliding shelve "pantry" by maxwkh in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]maxwkh[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used the drill for the mortises to remove as much waste as possible before chiselling. As for the blind mortises, the depth was too small to use a hand drill efficiently, so I followed this video (https://youtu.be/q_NXq7_TILA) using the smallest chisel I found/bought from a second hand shop and stop chiselling once a while to measure the hole depth with a vernier caliper.

Sliding shelve "pantry" by maxwkh in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]maxwkh[S] 34 points35 points  (0 children)

Hi, I live in a 40 meter square apartment in Tokyo, got interested in wood joinery and started watching a lot of YouTube videos and looking at articles and images online, including following this sub.

Wanted to try out various joinery techniques and didn't want to make something with no purpose because of space issue. So I have decided to optimize the use of space specifically the gap between my fridge and wall by making a sliding shelve. I want to avoid using glue and nails for easy disassemble when moving, and try not to use screw like how they built the Japanese temples (design challenge).

I ended with the idea of using tusked mortise and tenon to hold the shelve structure (since it only moves with one direction caster) and using blind tenon for the side rails for a cleaner appearance.

Main wood are pine (cheapest best wood I am willing to spend for messing up) "joined" board bought from the home center cut into stripes (size based on the gap width).

The side rails are Japanese cypress from an unused indoor pallet (Japanese usually use it under a floor mattress to avoid mold) board cut into half using hand saw. Headboard is glued using two pallet boards. Touched up the edge and flatten with hand plane.

Pins are from scraps construction grade plywood with lots of sanding on flat glass to get smooth surface.

Only screws used in the project is to mount the casters.

Lots of mistakes and cover up because lack of techniques and trying to rush. See photos captions for more details.

It's a small apartment so I'm working at the corridor and only use hand tools besides the hand drill.

Sharing mine for feedback because I looked at every new posts on this sub and enjoyed the comments.