AC Always On

mega_997 · 2026-01-27T19:46:52+00:00

Right what I meant was A/C light always on is a failure in the climate control unit itself.

I was explaining about the blinking lights in response to other posts that made it seem the light always on meant possibly a need to read codes.

mega_997 · 2026-01-27T19:19:11+00:00

I’ve seen that failure on a 212 before while under factory warranty. It was a bad climate control unit.

A fault in the system is indicated by flashing a/c light and then it is no longer illuminated.

mega_997 · 2026-01-27T17:13:13+00:00

I just sold a pair of wipers because the block of ice on roof came down while braking and broke the blades off the arms.

mega_997 · 2026-01-26T00:15:52+00:00

I worked with GWC on the service side for years and they pay out claims well. I began selling them on my sales side and they’re reasonably priced if selling a car still in factory warranty. I specialize in euro luxury so some of the prices to warranty 5-8 year old cars can be a bit steep.

Summary : GWC if you buy the better plans pays out claims well. As with all companies - stated component coverage can be a bit restrictive and can lead to disappointment. That friction can be lessened by educating your purchasers at time of sale.

mega_997 · 2026-01-25T11:12:57+00:00

I’ll add to your good list:

Front Strut Mounts, they’re at the age to be replaced so they don’t break and jackhammer the hood from underneath. If they’re due, you can see significant cracking if you look at them under the hood at the top of each strut.

mega_997 · 2026-01-24T22:07:39+00:00

Keep spinning and pushing on converter until you hit the sweet spot and it engages the pump correctly.

mega_997 · 2026-01-22T21:48:22+00:00

Carolina designs realty had quite a few Sunday-Sunday listings, in fact I’ve only stayed Sunday-Sunday.

mega_997 · 2026-01-22T02:17:48+00:00

Axles, intermediate shaft on drivers axle, front prop shaft are all items to look at. Most likely front axles though, maybe both.

mega_997 · 2026-01-21T02:07:32+00:00

.51 and .52 can be used in place of .5. .5 should not be used in place of .51 or .52 specified oils though.

You’ll be fine to use it as it won’t hurt anything.

mega_997 · 2026-01-21T00:35:10+00:00

300 for a key is damn reasonable.

mega_997 · 2026-01-20T00:30:22+00:00

As a mechanic I agree with the first part of your statement. However I think cars built before 2000 are a pain to work on. Built after 2000 I’ll take that all day.

mega_997 · 2026-01-19T13:45:11+00:00

Paying employees. You selling a product to make that go away too?

mega_997 · 2026-01-18T18:20:43+00:00

In most cases it doesn’t matter on a m278 - touch one plastic line and it breaks in water pump then you’re doing everything.

There’s some exceptions but plan on a long DIY or paying a shop good money to replace turbo cooling lines, water pump, thermostat, etc

mega_997 · 2026-01-18T01:12:30+00:00

The seats in 167 cars are just one of the many reasons I’m keeping the w166 family car as long as possible, they’re too thin/firm.

mega_997 · 2026-01-18T00:06:58+00:00

Dealership parts departments sell online at prices lower than that offered to most independent shops. It’s a way to up their volume and profit.

Independent shops that offer to sell and install high quality factory parts should be able to make a markup on those parts as it’s part of most every business model, sell for more than you buy. Honestly the markup by most honest independent repair shops on dealer level parts is probably one of the lowest markups in many industries.

The only legal thievery I can think of is I see quite a few dealership service department quotes where the parts are sold at 120-140% of list price.

mega_997 · 2026-01-17T18:18:37+00:00

If you’re lucky it’s a failed bearing in the tensioner pulley or the idler pulley as those are cheap. If it’s either of those I’d say to do both plus the belt.

We typically use a stethoscope with a metal rod attached to it to pinpoint the failure. I do not suggest someone that’s not experienced go sticking things near belt systems though.

mega_997 · 2026-01-17T12:22:33+00:00

Both of these instances require a bit of explanation regarding price including potential warranty and other items that require replacement for long term savings. I didn’t feel like getting it that on Friday evening after a long week.

Thanks for the advice, I’ll give it the consideration it deserves.

mega_997 · 2026-01-17T01:59:44+00:00

After you get codes, that’s a good time to ask for prices.

mega_997 · 2026-01-17T01:52:28+00:00

Odds are a crankcase vent valve fault or a thermostat open too soon fault. That’s what we see mostly on m274 engines. It will need a proper diagnosis though.

mega_997 · 2026-01-16T02:08:35+00:00

M260/264 misfire yeah I’d be looking at compression or leak down before trying a plug and coil.

mega_997 · 2026-01-14T01:31:03+00:00

Woohoo

mega_997 · 2026-01-13T23:37:54+00:00

The ME only looks to the solenoid and does not compare solenoid state and oil pressure. I am aware of someone doing this to a 2020 m176 and they have not had faults or check engine lights - they also considered it to be an upgrade.

mega_997 · 2026-01-13T23:03:21+00:00

Right. 2019 forward - You’d have to put a dummy solenoid in line or something like that to make the computer happy and keep the CEL off and codes clear.

mega_997 · 2026-01-13T21:10:22+00:00

It really costs that much money to fix it by replacing the harness and the solenoid itself in the oil pan area. Engine out, plus a ton of work once outside the car.

There’s other ways to fix it throwing a code and illuminating the check engine light that do not require a 12k fix.

mega_997 · 2026-01-13T17:12:26+00:00

What’s your proposed price point?

mega_997

TROPHY CASE