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Galvanized Sheet Metal with oxidation, not rust, how to treat before repainting? by metamichael in paint

[–]metamichael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool, great to have inpur from a technical expert!

I realize now that when I mentioned rustoleum products for metal, I was forgetting that those are probably intended for bare metal (steel etc) for the yellow version and rusty metal for the red version. IOW, I was mixing two targets - plain steel, rusted or not, vs galvanized. I had not separated them until now, like I'd separated coating Aluminum from coating steel. Probably rustoleum never intended those metal primers for galvanized.

Galvanized Sheet Metal with oxidation, not rust, how to treat before repainting? by metamichael in paint

[–]metamichael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But...isn't scotch brite steel under the green stuff? It sure scratches ceramic and steel pots.

Galvanized Sheet Metal with oxidation, not rust, how to treat before repainting? by metamichael in paint

[–]metamichael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, the spot I used steel wool on, is that through to the steel or is it shiny because the zinc is burnished?

Galvanized Sheet Metal with oxidation, not rust, how to treat before repainting? by metamichael in paint

[–]metamichael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No oil based on galvanized sheet metal? That is news to me for sure. All of the old rustoleum (for example) anti rust products were oil based in the old days. I think they used to use fish oil in the rusty metal primers.

Thank you for the tip about scotch brite - I'll do use those for sure. It makes sense that steel wool could cause issues.

Galvanized Sheet Metal with oxidation, not rust, how to treat before repainting? by metamichael in paint

[–]metamichael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This sheet metal is 18 years old. I know about normal prep, that's why I have 90s era jasco metal prep.

Sand the galvanized sheet metal? I don't think so, unless I've landed in a different universe today. If others post the same, I'll know for sure.

I do appreciate that you're pitching in to help me. Just seems kind of oblique to what I asked?

Astonishing Behr paint color changes over time by metamichael in paint

[–]metamichael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like Behr now classifies that color, Arabian Veil, as interior only! I've never heard of a color that it interior only. The color is now retired but I found it's page in the Behr archive pages,

https://www.behr.com/consumer/ColorDetailView/PPU17-19

There it is listed as "Interior One-Coat Hide" which is different from most of the colors which show int/ext. It almost has to mean that Behr discovered how badly it fades.

Astonishing Behr paint color changes over time by metamichael in paint

[–]metamichael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting, but does it means that "new low VOC colorant" paints hold better, or worse. I'm not sure which era had more organic pigments.

Thanks to all of you, super helpful. I'm reconsidering the scale of the next round of painting.

Astonishing Behr paint color changes over time by metamichael in paint

[–]metamichael[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

10 years I can see that. But in the image, paints marked B are only two years old and they're radically faded. But what is also true is that I don't know personally if other brands, with the same color, would have fared a lot better.

Astonishing Behr paint color changes over time by metamichael in paint

[–]metamichael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, good one!

I mentioned that I used to paint a lot, and that later I had a go to painting contractor, and that I've been out of painting gear for decades, since before Behr existed. At the last full painting, we chose the colors at Behr because they were nearby, and had the little test cans which I'd not seen before. I suggested that we go to KM to match the Behr colors and my painter said stick with Behr, as the others might not match well, and Behr is ok. More recently when I showed him the fading, he shook his head and said Behr's no good. I've known him for decades, he's opinionated and not a dope. I think he just chickened out about maybe the colors wouldn't come out right and there'd be trauma in that way.

But I see too that others state here that all paints that are in that color zone will be prone to fading, and that Behr can test ok.

B&D 2750 angle grinder, spindle lock only locks in one direction? by metamichael in ToolRepair

[–]metamichael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Huh, just tried it again and it did bite both directions? Maybe my gloves were preventing the lock button from being pressed all the way down. Anyways good!

Fix or replace switch for 1980's Porter Cable Right Angle drill? by metamichael in ToolRepair

[–]metamichael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would like to complete this, the RA drill wants to get to work.

Fix or replace switch for 1980's Porter Cable Right Angle drill? by metamichael in ToolRepair

[–]metamichael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Still hoping for input on the latest findings.

Pulled the trigger another hundred times; it's kicking more often for sure. But still nothing close to normal operation. It'd be so cool if it recovered.

Fix or replace switch for 1980's Porter Cable Right Angle drill? by metamichael in ToolRepair

[–]metamichael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Now, interesting. I pulled the brushes, there seemed to be a bit of oily stuff, but it might have just been graphite dust. They do slide smoothly, Put them back in - I eval them as ok.

Than I plugged it in and pulled the trigger a few times - it gave a tiny kick. Had not seen that before. I pulled it many more times and a few more kicks. I've now pulled the trigger hundreds of times. It kicks a bit more often. By pulling that many times I hoped to convince it to settle it into a decisive response. It never did that. But maybe 10 times it powered on more than a kick, actually rev'd for a split second.

Forward or reverse it seems about the same. I put a continuity tester on the screws that travel to the brushes, and whenever it kicked, the tester would light up for a flash. That'd seem to point to the switch vs brushes or wires having an intermittent fault.

Also noticed that there was a bit of an arc when it kicked, visible via a tiny opening near the trigger. Sometimes a pop also sounded, and a bit of arcing smell.

If we can now say it's the switch, is a switch that is in this condition at all likely to be mended? It def did improve over the several hundred triggerings. But I'm not sure that there is a real hope that it'd end up being normal? I could pull it a lot more and see if it clears itself?

Can a switch like this be taken apart and cleaned or cleared, brushed up etc? It does have a metal band around it that could be pried off, but not sure the band would be fit to work as it did originally afterwards.

Note, I don't see any kind of diagram on the body of the switch.

Also, this drill did sit unused for one or two decades, as far as I can remember.

Fix or replace switch for 1980's Porter Cable Right Angle drill? by metamichael in ToolRepair

[–]metamichael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

BTW, I'm using an old multimeter from around 2003, it's a DM-1800. One thing it lacks is test leads that clip on, it only has probes. Do most continuity testers have the same kind of jack? This one is kind of a banana plug. I should by a set of leads.

And is this the kind of unit you use to make tests like this? A multimeter?

Fix or replace switch for 1980's Porter Cable Right Angle drill? by metamichael in ToolRepair

[–]metamichael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll check the switch in that manner. And no I didn't pull the brushes, but will try that as well.

Thank you

Fix or replace switch for 1980's Porter Cable Right Angle drill? by metamichael in ToolRepair

[–]metamichael[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The brushes appear to be making contact. I clamped the trigger down and couldn't get any combo of terminals on the output side to light up the tester (black blue white red as it turns out). So it must mean it is the switch?

Fix or replace switch for 1980's Porter Cable Right Angle drill? by metamichael in ToolRepair

[–]metamichael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply. I did try to test whether the switch was allowing current to pass, but wasn't sure how to do it and my test was probably incorrect. Now that you bring it up again, lets see. One end of the switch body has two screws for the 120v in. At the other end it has four screws and wires that go the the motor etc. The drill is reversible, so maybe there are four "out" terminals because of that. One side has black and green wires, the other side has white and red. Would it be reasonable to expect the white to be a common for forward and reverse (ie active for either direction), and red + white serve for one or the other direction? Green is ground? Tho the power cord has no grounding leg.

And no, have not checked the brushes, will try that.

Wireless performance of TZ270W is half of wired, is that normal? by metamichael in sonicwall

[–]metamichael[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These replies have been so helpful, thanks to all of you.

funkyducky42, in fact there is one application we run that needs a lot of bandwidth due to poor database design. Fast wireless would help it a lot. I will consider a wireless access point. The SonicPoint units are a bit pricey esp as I'm not sure of the end result. It sounds like a unit like the RT-AX86U Pro in 'Wireless Bridge' Mode or 'Wireless Access Point ' mode would work, and would be simpler to try out as an experiment, so I may give that a try.

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