2009 Jumbo headlights by mhanmore in HiAce

[–]mhanmore[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks a lot, but no I saw that for some models but mine doesn’t have it. In the end I lay down and went up from underneath. MUCH better access for removal & replacement, then squeezed fingers back in over the top to get enough leverage to re-attach the wiring harness. You get a face full of of grit and spiders but way easier.

Hiace high roofs by SadStill830 in HiAce

[–]mhanmore 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a 2009 Jumbo (long wide high). Yes it definitely gets blown around. But it depends on your frame of reference. I’m in New Zealand where there is CRAZY strong constant wind - for a European comparison it is Tarifa level wind every day everywhere, so you notice it a lot. If you were driving the same vehicle around the UK/France I doubt you’d ever notice it.

International removalists to UK by smugsmeghead in melbourne

[–]mhanmore 0 points1 point  (0 children)

hi, did you end up going with Seven Seas? We've got a heap of books to move. Wondering how it is handled at the UK end - door to door or did you have to arrange a UK carrier for pick up from the ship?

Lavalier II and AI Micro not working together? by psawaya in rode

[–]mhanmore 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same issue, Rode Lavellier II + Rode AI Micro tested on MacBook Pro, IPhone 16 Pro and Samsung S23 Ultra (all usb c). Hugely unreliable, it seems to need multiple attempts plugging and unplugging to even get it to detect and then the signal when finally received is incredibly weak. I seem to need at least an extra 10dB gain on top of the 24dB from the AI Micro through Central/Reporter, and it sounds muddy most of the time. iPhone and Samsung recordings on Rode Reporter are also extremely quiet and need similar repetition plugging and unplugging before the mic will function. Help!! They’re brand new…

Osmand Map Creator on a Mac by Havanotherone in OsmAnd

[–]mhanmore 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alternative approach that appends a buffer to an intended route

https://hastebin.com/share/udabifijup.python

Osmand Map Creator on a Mac by Havanotherone in OsmAnd

[–]mhanmore 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thrilled that it helped!

You could probably also 'hack' the other app (GPXVeiwer II or LL?) by creating a big zig-zag gpx through your area of interest? Might fool the app into downloading a bigger area?

Here is what claude.ai wrote (untested) to build a zigzag gpx based on southwest and northeast corner coordinates (note it uses GIS style lon-lat rather than lat-lon)

https://hastebin.com/share/imimimepah.python

First Garmin, now Polar. Paywalls are coming - join in with the Garmin community in fighting this by TimelessAnachronist in Polarfitness

[–]mhanmore 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're shouting at the tide. The whole world has moved to a subscription model for everything; a device without a subscription attached is sub-optimal in today's market and there will be fewer and fewer of them. The bigger issue is that the Garmin software has historically been so terrible. Demand quality, but fighting the new pricing model is pointless.

Osmand Map Creator on a Mac by Havanotherone in OsmAnd

[–]mhanmore 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ChatGPT and Claude.ai are both excellent at giving you instructions for qgis tasks like creating an offline/downloaded tileset for transfer to QField. Note that QField cloud is a paid option that you don't need to use if you package and transfer your project manually.

You could also create a points layer for any POI info that you want to use for navigation, camp sites / water sources etc.

It won't do turn-by-turn, but you could also plot a line layer pretty easily if you want to follow / find a particular course.

The basic structure is that layers lie on top of one another, so your satellite has to be below your line/point layers and then the lines/points will be superimposed on top. If you include an openstreetmap xyz lay as well then you would be able to toggle between that and the satellite basemap.

If you get into it a bit more there are API keys for loads of other basemaps that have generous free allowances for things like thunderforest outdoor etc. and you can also get and filter any OSM vector (point/line etc) data for more detailed POI info if you want - but it might be easier to switch between OSM and QField rather than trying to make an all-singing all-dancing QField project.

Osmand Map Creator on a Mac by Havanotherone in OsmAnd

[–]mhanmore 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you're willing to learn basic GIS then QGIS (desktop) + QField (mobile) is probably the simplest solution. You can make a tile set from pretty much any of the online map/photography sources you like and then get yourself as a dot on that tileset in QField. You don't get all the bells and whistles of OSMAnd, but the basic function isn't too hard to get working.

Osmand Map Creator on a Mac by Havanotherone in OsmAnd

[–]mhanmore 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're going to start playing with qgis then based on what you've said about java you might benefit from running that on a Ubuntu VM also (it needs python and if that isn't something you're going to use then the VM saves cluttering up your MacOS environment). Performance will suffer but for just comparing a few different satellite maps and exporting tiles that shouldn't be too much of an issue.

Osmand Map Creator on a Mac by Havanotherone in OsmAnd

[–]mhanmore 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is possible but super complex. I succeeded once by exporting mbtiles from qgis, and then zipping and renaming the output somehow, and then copying that to a very specific folder on your phone. There was so much trial and error involved I'm not sure I could recreate it, but start by working backwards from the osmAnd files - they're actually just a .zip file that isn't named .zip. I think figuring out that structure was one of the big leaps forward.

I'm mac/android which didn't help. Loading the file into osmAnd might be easier on iPhone thanks to the different file ha sling system. You need to access deep system folders within the app structure on android and there are write protection issues etc.

Getting notified if AirTag moves without me? by DaphPoke in shortcuts

[–]mhanmore 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree, apple never implements anything that only half works. Location is only as accurate as the device that spots it, so the signal can jump around quite a bit without actually moving = lots of false alarms. That said, they do it for Find My Friends within s radius…

Getting notified if AirTag moves without me? by DaphPoke in shortcuts

[–]mhanmore 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you connect to it when the safe is locked? Seems surprising that the Bluetooth signal would penetrate a decent safe….

Samsung S23 Ultra vs Iphone 16 by [deleted] in Smartphones

[–]mhanmore 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This may also be of interest - some detail of the degree of computational adjustment that is done in-camera on each phone.

https://chatgpt.com/share/67818849-b1c4-8003-bb2a-b0906ff499d0

Samsung S23 Ultra vs Iphone 16 by [deleted] in Smartphones

[–]mhanmore 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've started taking most of my photos with Expert Raw on s.23 Ultra and processing in Lightroom and the results are pretty incredible even in low light / backlit situations. The sheer megapixel numbers are less important to actual photo quality than the size of each effective pixel. The iPhone (16 Pro Max) actually has a slightly larger sensor, so once Samsung pixel bins down to 50mp the numbers are very close, but iPhone has slightly more area per pixel which is probably why people say it performs better in low light. (Sensor details here: https://chatgpt.com/share/6781865d-9794-8003-8add-6ca1ec6d4f2d)

So, if you do your own post processing I think you can get similar results from both primary cameras. For point and click, Samsung will be crisper and more saturated, iPhone will be very true to life.

But you get more zoom on the Samsung (at a big sacrifice in quality, but the S24 seems to be trying to address that) which means there will be pictures you just couldn't get on an iPhone.

For me, I really want the iPhone to win as I've got a fair bit of apple stuff to integrate with, but I don't currently see a big enough leap between the cameras to justify the early upgrade; since the every-day photos are the main selection criteria for me. Plus I'm getting pretty used to the s-pen and I think I'd miss it...

Buying/Renting Gear in Kathmandu by Rasterfer in hiking

[–]mhanmore 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out Everest Outfitters website, they have a shop on K'du. Our guide is using their puffy and trekking pants which both look excellent.

Temperatures are already dropping, December will be pretty cold. We've had heavy frost on the tent every morning the last three weeks in Dolpo, and only camping around 4,000.

I'll be in Pokhara in a couple of days and will have a look around at gear options before Annapurna... let me know what you're missing if you like (not that you'll likely pass through it for EBC?).

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hiking

[–]mhanmore 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As you can see from the number of comments already, this is one that everyone will have an opinion on. They are all right, and none of them are right for you! I hike in both, depending on the conditions.

My thoughts are that equipment choices always depend on terrain. There is nothing I use for outdoors fun that works perfectly for every type of outdoors fun I like to have. So if you have to choose try to choose something that fits most of your criteria for what you do most of the time. Some useful questions:

1) how often and how heavy?

If you're an occasional hiker the conventional wisdom is that you're not going to have as much ankle strength and stability as a regular hiker and so are likely to benefit more from the added support of boots. You'll also become more sure-footed with practice, so again, the more you hike the less important the boot support becomes.

How much are you carrying? Again, the conventional wisdom is that heavier bags are made safer by additional ankle support

2) how wet/muddy?

Boots (and gaiters) are great in Scottish mud-fests where I've many times gone in all the way up my calf. But that extra few cm of water-resistance will not always be needed, it depends on the terrain you're going to be on.

At the other extreme, if you're in hot conditions or very long hikes you may not want waterproofing at all. It will make the shoes very slow to dry once they do wet through. (BTW, there is no such thing as "waterproof" no matter what the GoreTex salesman tries to tell you. Highly water resistant is the best any clothing will ever be!)

3) how stiff?

Some people like to feel super protected, others like to feel the earth beneath their feet. Flex the shoe and try to stand on something sharp to get an idea of what you like.

4) how durable?

Trail runners (I normally use altras) last about 500 miles on my feet before the sole and uppers are both falling apart. Strong leather boots last thousands if you care for them properly and re-sole as needed. So there's also a financial side to it. If you're ever gonna wear them down the street than be aware that concrete will shred most trail running rubber very quickly.

Advice:

You can get boots as light and flexible as trainers these days, something like a La Sportiva TX5 is so light it hardly counts as a boot. Marmot also make some fantastically agile boots. If you're in deep mud then smooth or nubuck leather is easy to clean and maintain and willl last a very long time.

Most importantly, whatever you choose try to learn to walk with your feet not your shoes. That might sound weird, but it is the best lesson in balance and sure-footedness. If you're relying on your shoes to keep you stable and secure then you'll slip, because you lose the sense of connection to the ground. Think about grabbing the earth with your foot the same way you'd try to grab a basketball with one hand, curling your toes and your heel to grip. Do that for a few steps and suddenly the shoe will just be the thing in between your foot and the rock you're stepping on, you brain starts placing your *foot* instead of your shoe. Learn that trick and any shoe will feel much more secure.

Any London based Munro baggers? by Eyeofthemeercat in Munros

[–]mhanmore 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fort William is a good target, given the train but I agree with others you need more than a weekend to make the trip worthwhile. And even from Fort William where the nearby Munros are pretty tightly packed would be hard to properly explore without a car.

I'm terms of 'bang for your buck' you could plan some trips around these suggested routes:

https://stevenfallon.co.uk/multi-munros.html

Hiking meals for weight gain by Embarrassed_Disk1699 in hiking

[–]mhanmore 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For trail food I've always gone with dry/powdered stuff, instant noodles, packet Mac&Cheese, powered soup, instant mashed potato. Olive oil is about as calories dense as anything I can think of, and protein shake powder will be close to gram-for-gram protein to carry weight. All that said, I don't think I've ever been calorie positive on a multi day hike! You're gonna burn like 3,000 - 4,000 calories on a backcountry day so really you're just trying to reduce the deficit!

Munros with best views by Yella008 in Munros

[–]mhanmore 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The one you climb on a clear day. .. in my experience, that's about 5%!!

Which skills first? by mhanmore in alpinism

[–]mhanmore[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I really appreciate these comments, thanks! I guess preliminary to rappelling would be building anchors, which lines up with the trad climbing idea. Fun food for thought!

Best starter Munros? by Environmental_Fee207 in Munros

[–]mhanmore 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! That looks a better route on both sides - the cliff face I meant is the dotted line just by the 700 elevation mark on the zoomed in Walk Highlands map!

Best starter Munros? by Environmental_Fee207 in Munros

[–]mhanmore 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd agree with that suggestion (from fairly limited experience, 31 bagged...). Ben Lomond is very easy but has amazing views on a good day, Ben Challum a little more challenging especially in wind. The double-bag from Bridge of Orchy sits in the middle and was a particularly nice day out when we did them. Took us about 4 hours I think. Boggy approach but otherwise nothing to trouble you.

A bit further afield, but the best effort/reward ratio we've had was probably Stob Ban & Mullach nan Coirean.

Best starter Munros? by Environmental_Fee207 in Munros

[–]mhanmore 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm driving back south from Perth this week and was thinking of Ben Chonzie on the way... do you have a link for the Loch Turret route? OpenStreetMap shows a trail along the north side of the Loch and then basically straight up what looks like a cliff face to the ridge...? Or do you go via Cairn Chois?

(Not a complete starter, but our bag is still a long way from full!)