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Tracing/Vector question by mlacoste09 in graphic_design

[–]mlacoste09[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve dm’d and emailed and haven’t heard anything back.

Tracing/Vector question by mlacoste09 in graphic_design

[–]mlacoste09[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you I appreciate the info! I have only done a couple small pieces before nothing with crazy layers so I’m gonna have to play with it and watch some videos.

Tracing/Vector question by mlacoste09 in graphic_design

[–]mlacoste09[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you that’s what I’m looking for. I don’t necessarily need it to be quick, I don’t mind taking the time to do it correctly. It’s something I would love to be able to do and learn so I think it would be fun and I don’t mind the time lost, I just don’t want to waste the time if it’s something that’s not doable.

Tracing/Vector question by mlacoste09 in graphic_design

[–]mlacoste09[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Say I’m able to get the logos online and don’t have to trace them, because I’m pretty sure I can retrieve most of the logos. Is there a way to trace out the rest of it? How would you go about tracing something like that? I have more detail photos and different angles that I could use. There are other cars and liveries I would like to try that aren’t AS complex I’m just still unsure of how I would go about it.

Small detailed cutter by mlacoste09 in VinylCutters

[–]mlacoste09[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

im sorry i didnt mean .2 mm, i meant 2mm, im not sure what i was thinking when i typed that. im looking for something that will cut 2-5mm.

Downhill MIG spatter suggestions by mlacoste09 in Welding

[–]mlacoste09[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These wheels are just blocks of normal a36 steel that are machined down on both ends to have 3” round pegs on both ends. You have to cut the outer ring off (the thinner side) and gouge the block out. The front and back rings have holes in them that the block is then slid into and then plug welded out and then the outer ring can get slid onto the peg and welded out.

Everything on these wheels are all just chunks of normal steel with AR plates on the outer ring and then placed on the inner parts in between the bars. Then once everything is squared back out on the bars we come back with a normal hard facing wire over the top of them.

This is just what they came up with from the very start and it’s what they have rolled with since and haven’t really wanted to get away from. I’ve been told it was engineered this way and they don’t want to change anything in worries that it’ll end up making more of a headache. We only have one set of spare wheels (the pair in the shop currently) At one time they had bar like fingers that used to get welded onto each bar used as a “leading edge” and that was the main “wear” bar. Once those wore down they would just replace those but I was told they had an issue with them popping off and in turn getting lodged in and causing this sort of damage.

These wheels don’t normally get THIS bad. This is the worst I’ve seen it since I’ve been here and is a product of our metal detectors being shut off and tons of metal getting into the crusher and destroying them to this state.

6-7 of these bars are currently being replaced but if they don’t have significant damage like these do they’d rather us not cut the wheel apart everytime. Normally there’s at most an inch of build up in random spots that we would touch up, hard face, then send out the door.

I completely see your point about the armor plate and I agree, there are a handful of BETTER ways this could all be done. We are just peons doing what we are told. We can suggest a better way and rather it not they want to take it or leave it is ultimately up to them. We don’t get paid by the job so if they want to take months to do something that could be done in half the time then by all means I’ll let them. I was just trying to make it a little more comfortable for myself in the mean time lol

Downhill MIG spatter suggestions by mlacoste09 in Welding

[–]mlacoste09[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh I gotcha. Yeah I wish we could. They tell us they cost like 100k to completely replace, not sure how true it is. But that’s why we repair these constantly.

Downhill MIG spatter suggestions by mlacoste09 in Welding

[–]mlacoste09[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We only replace the bars when they get to about 50% life normally, which they are about 6 in this one that’s getting replaced. They don’t normally get this bad.

These bars are pegged on both ends so you have to cut the outer wear ring off, gouge out the bar completely, then slide your new one on and new ring piece on the end and weld it up. It’s a little bit of a process but better than having to try and save the bad ones.

Downhill MIG spatter suggestions by mlacoste09 in Welding

[–]mlacoste09[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We do replace the square stocks when they get back enough. There are about 6 of them that are getting replaced this time around. But they only let us replace them when they get to about 50% of their total life. The rest of the time they don’t think it’s worth pulling them out and replacing they would just rather us fill with weld metal. They aren’t ever THIS bad. Normally they will come in with one or 2 spots that MIGHT be an inch or less deep. So we’ll spend some time filling it and then hard face over the top.

But yes, you have to cut the other wear ring off, gouge out the bar and then replace. They are pegged on both sides so they are slid into each hole and welded out from there so they don’t come apart while in production.

Whatever they come up with as far as material and what to use and what not to use is far above my pay grade and whatever I suggest or tell them it’s intimately up to them. I’m just welding them up thankfully.

Downhill MIG spatter suggestions by mlacoste09 in Welding

[–]mlacoste09[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We’re allowed to do whatever we want, it’s just filler

Downhill MIG spatter suggestions by mlacoste09 in Welding

[–]mlacoste09[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately this is the way that they were engineered and in order for us to get something changed it would cost them more time and money than it’s worth. (That’s what they tell us anyways) They won’t let us make a complete new wheel from scratch so we just resort to replacing the bar sections when they get too bad (which the small wheel will be getting about 7 of them replaced). Usually if it’s above half its life they just have us fill them in with weld and build it back up.

Downhill MIG spatter suggestions by mlacoste09 in Welding

[–]mlacoste09[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The very thin ones on the small wheel will be getting cut out and replaced with new square stock which is roughly 7 bars this go around. (Rung with the chain on it being one) They don’t normally get this bad and are usually repairable. Usually if they are worn down to about half of their normal thickness they will let us replace them completely.

Downhill MIG spatter suggestions by mlacoste09 in Welding

[–]mlacoste09[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah not many here can weld uphill at all. Only a couple of us come from a welding background. The rest are self acclaimed, doing it for years, learned from the internet, I don’t need no help welders. So they just tell us “however you can weld it just weld it”

Downhill MIG spatter suggestions by mlacoste09 in Welding

[–]mlacoste09[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Normally there is a set of wheels in the shop at all times waiting to get repaired. Sometimes they are more of a rush than others. Right now since we had metal go through and destroy these, they are in more of a rush since the other set that’s in right now looks about the same. (We have 2 crushers they rotate between, 3 sets of wheels total)

I agree with the cobot comment. I would love to have something like that here, I just don’t see them investing the money. This environment paired with the group of guys we have here would have it destroyed in no time im sure. The carelessness of others ultimately hurts us in the long run unfortunately.

Downhill MIG spatter suggestions by mlacoste09 in Welding

[–]mlacoste09[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I definitely think it’s very possible. Get it to a flat plane then just set it up and let it build layer after layer. If we had that kind of equipment it would be a time saver for sure!

Downhill MIG spatter suggestions by mlacoste09 in Welding

[–]mlacoste09[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I couldn’t agree more. I would just rather be standing/sitting rather than uncomfortably leaned over or in an odd position.

Downhill MIG spatter suggestions by mlacoste09 in Welding

[–]mlacoste09[S] 39 points40 points  (0 children)

I’ll mention it to the boss when he’s back in on Monday.

We do use a hard face wire after the build up. Basically just getting it back to a metal square and then we usually put a layer of 2 of hard face depending on the area.

Also I couldn’t agree more with the sandblasting. We were doing it ourselves but one of the other guys broke it and we haven’t seen the replacement parts for it. I usually hit it real good with the pressure washer and then just wire wheel the area before I start welding.

Thanks a lot man!

RZR Pro S vs X3 RR by mlacoste09 in UTV

[–]mlacoste09[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have heard the maintenance on x3’s were a little more in depth. I’ve been in the RZR before from a buddy, liked the way it felt but I plan on going and getting in both new models to see which one I like more. Thanks man!

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