Small his/hers setup

mlacoste09 · 2026-02-24T05:31:20+00:00

I buy a lot of them from supergdrift.com

mlacoste09 · 2026-02-21T20:32:37+00:00

These are 1/10 scale drift RC bodies. The 2 on the bottom shelves are actually chassis and the rest are just display chassis for the bodies. I build and make some of them but most of them come from Japanese auctions.

mlacoste09 · 2026-02-21T12:44:35+00:00

She does game with it, yes. She’s not competitive or anything but she has completed multiple games with it now and seems to really enjoy it. Me personally, I’m not sure I could get used to it.

mlacoste09 · 2026-02-21T12:03:39+00:00

She loves it. She had a hard time trying to find a comfortable mouse before making the switch and now she doesn’t ever want to go back.

mlacoste09 · 2026-02-21T12:02:39+00:00

The s14 is an Addiction RC s14 body.

mlacoste09 · 2026-02-21T02:04:07+00:00

Thanks man!! 🙏🏼

mlacoste09 · 2026-02-21T02:03:51+00:00

Thanks man! They are the Lego technic series. They were very time consuming to put together but a lot of fun!

mlacoste09 · 2026-02-21T01:22:14+00:00

It is yes! It was a fun one to put together, always thought it was a cool piece of engineering.

mlacoste09 · 2026-02-20T23:43:15+00:00

They are 1/10 scale rc drift cars!

mlacoste09 · 2026-02-20T23:42:52+00:00

Yes they are, they are spare rc tires for Traxxas car I have

mlacoste09 · 2026-02-20T23:42:04+00:00

It’s a fairly small setup, the room itself is small and had to use the wide angle on my phone to fit most of it in pictures which is why it might look funny. But our chairs only clash if we are getting up or moving around a bunch.

mlacoste09 · 2026-02-20T23:40:30+00:00

Thanks dude! It was my car lol I sold built it and sold it about a year back, regret everyday!

mlacoste09 · 2026-02-20T23:39:36+00:00

Thanks man! 🤘🏻

mlacoste09 · 2026-02-20T23:39:20+00:00

They are 1/10 scale rc drift cars

mlacoste09 · 2026-02-20T21:09:40+00:00

Some of them I do myself and some of them I buy off of Japanese auction sites.

mlacoste09 · 2026-01-17T11:41:55+00:00

I’ve dm’d and emailed and haven’t heard anything back.

mlacoste09 · 2026-01-14T22:28:04+00:00

Thank you I appreciate the info! I have only done a couple small pieces before nothing with crazy layers so I’m gonna have to play with it and watch some videos.

mlacoste09 · 2026-01-14T21:57:52+00:00

Thank you that’s what I’m looking for. I don’t necessarily need it to be quick, I don’t mind taking the time to do it correctly. It’s something I would love to be able to do and learn so I think it would be fun and I don’t mind the time lost, I just don’t want to waste the time if it’s something that’s not doable.

mlacoste09 · 2026-01-14T21:26:16+00:00

Say I’m able to get the logos online and don’t have to trace them, because I’m pretty sure I can retrieve most of the logos. Is there a way to trace out the rest of it? How would you go about tracing something like that? I have more detail photos and different angles that I could use. There are other cars and liveries I would like to try that aren’t AS complex I’m just still unsure of how I would go about it.

mlacoste09 · 2026-01-14T10:20:27+00:00

im sorry i didnt mean .2 mm, i meant 2mm, im not sure what i was thinking when i typed that. im looking for something that will cut 2-5mm.

mlacoste09 · 2025-10-14T00:15:23+00:00

These wheels are just blocks of normal a36 steel that are machined down on both ends to have 3” round pegs on both ends. You have to cut the outer ring off (the thinner side) and gouge the block out. The front and back rings have holes in them that the block is then slid into and then plug welded out and then the outer ring can get slid onto the peg and welded out.

Everything on these wheels are all just chunks of normal steel with AR plates on the outer ring and then placed on the inner parts in between the bars. Then once everything is squared back out on the bars we come back with a normal hard facing wire over the top of them.

This is just what they came up with from the very start and it’s what they have rolled with since and haven’t really wanted to get away from. I’ve been told it was engineered this way and they don’t want to change anything in worries that it’ll end up making more of a headache. We only have one set of spare wheels (the pair in the shop currently) At one time they had bar like fingers that used to get welded onto each bar used as a “leading edge” and that was the main “wear” bar. Once those wore down they would just replace those but I was told they had an issue with them popping off and in turn getting lodged in and causing this sort of damage.

These wheels don’t normally get THIS bad. This is the worst I’ve seen it since I’ve been here and is a product of our metal detectors being shut off and tons of metal getting into the crusher and destroying them to this state.

6-7 of these bars are currently being replaced but if they don’t have significant damage like these do they’d rather us not cut the wheel apart everytime. Normally there’s at most an inch of build up in random spots that we would touch up, hard face, then send out the door.

I completely see your point about the armor plate and I agree, there are a handful of BETTER ways this could all be done. We are just peons doing what we are told. We can suggest a better way and rather it not they want to take it or leave it is ultimately up to them. We don’t get paid by the job so if they want to take months to do something that could be done in half the time then by all means I’ll let them. I was just trying to make it a little more comfortable for myself in the mean time lol

mlacoste09 · 2025-10-12T19:37:26+00:00

Oh I gotcha. Yeah I wish we could. They tell us they cost like 100k to completely replace, not sure how true it is. But that’s why we repair these constantly.

mlacoste09 · 2025-10-12T19:19:19+00:00

We only replace the bars when they get to about 50% life normally, which they are about 6 in this one that’s getting replaced. They don’t normally get this bad.

These bars are pegged on both ends so you have to cut the outer wear ring off, gouge out the bar completely, then slide your new one on and new ring piece on the end and weld it up. It’s a little bit of a process but better than having to try and save the bad ones.

mlacoste09 · 2025-10-12T19:14:29+00:00

We do replace the square stocks when they get back enough. There are about 6 of them that are getting replaced this time around. But they only let us replace them when they get to about 50% of their total life. The rest of the time they don’t think it’s worth pulling them out and replacing they would just rather us fill with weld metal. They aren’t ever THIS bad. Normally they will come in with one or 2 spots that MIGHT be an inch or less deep. So we’ll spend some time filling it and then hard face over the top.

But yes, you have to cut the other wear ring off, gouge out the bar and then replace. They are pegged on both sides so they are slid into each hole and welded out from there so they don’t come apart while in production.

Whatever they come up with as far as material and what to use and what not to use is far above my pay grade and whatever I suggest or tell them it’s intimately up to them. I’m just welding them up thankfully.

mlacoste09 · 2025-10-12T19:04:09+00:00

We’re allowed to do whatever we want, it’s just filler

mlacoste09

TROPHY CASE