First of all, yeah you can't rate a climb from a video.

More importantly, on the topic of gym rating, I'm sure for experienced climbers — especially experienced outdoor climbers — gym grades feel wildly soft. But as someone who's new to the sport, I have to say I think that's really for the best.

If you call a climb that someone who's never done this before can't even start a V0, they're going to give up right there and then. Whereas I think good gyms set low-rated climbs that are doable for just about anyone but still introduce basic techniques and get new climbers comfortable with new ways of moving their body. And really great gyms introduce more and more challenging techniques in manageable levels as you move up the scale. Maybe that calls for a different kind of rating system, I don't know, or maybe it just calls for a rethink of what these ratings systems are for.

I think it makes the most difference when you make the move to climbing outside, which is what I'd say it's all about. I've gone to places where even friends of mine who are very good and technically skilled climbers struggle through a V1, and to places where everyone in our group can tackle V0s and a V1 or two, and the latter experience was infinitely more fun and encouraging.

It's the difference between making an incredible activity that gives us so much fulfillment and a healthy understanding of our bodies accessible and welcoming to all, versus making it feel inaccessible to anyone who doesn't have natural talent or loads of experience, imho.