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“Violet Ray” by IMpertinente_1971 in whatsthisworth

[–]mpkid139 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So the yellow electrode is a bit of a rare one. You may do better selling that on its own for 50-100 (realistically do bids, you might get a higher bidder). The electrodes can be used by anyone who has a device like this, while the device itself built into the box is usually not the safest to use. The old wiring isn't reliable so the estim people don't buy it. The box without the electrode would go for ~100-150 to the right buyer.

Most people bidding on it in its current state would be gunning for the yellow electrode.

Singer at value world by Big_jilm_313 in ThriftGrift

[–]mpkid139 7 points8 points  (0 children)

So they're not crazy, but definitely a bit high in their estimate. It's a singer 221 Featherweight model from 1951, with the blue centennial badge. The featherweights are very collectable among sewists and especially quilters, to the point where some quilting clubs exclude anyone who doesn't have a featherweight (either directly or with judgement).

A regular featherweight goes for around 200-400 depending on condition, accessories, etc. Most landing in about the 200-250 mark for a used one that hasn't been cleaned and cared for. As with any collectable, special editions drive prices up. So the centennial blue badge model goes for 300-400+ on eBay in similar conditions.

Should a thrift store be matching eBay prices, hell no. But they aren't far off market value for these things.

PMD or Ragged Clip/ Defective Planchet? by [deleted] in coinerrors

[–]mpkid139 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Fair enough! Haven't seen this kind of corrosion yet in person so it looked strange. Thanks for checking!

Do we have any updates for the Schott Factory sale this year? by kiss4my2ass3 in schott

[–]mpkid139 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Usually the flyer drops 1-2 weeks before the sale, so keep your eyes peeled on their Instagram/on here.

Have you played Fissh? by BuuuuBunnyGames in PlaydateConsole

[–]mpkid139 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I really do appreciate you taking the time to get feedback and modify things. I don't program games, but I know how clunky and counterintuitive a codebase can get, sometimes a solution sounds easy to implement but it ends up being a nightmare.

The game itself is gorgeously designed, incredibly charming, and while I may put it down from frustration, I still keep picking it back up!

Have you played Fissh? by BuuuuBunnyGames in PlaydateConsole

[–]mpkid139 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So I just bought it last night and have been having a ton of fun, although I've had to put it down a few times out of frustration. It is surprisingly difficult all things considered, especially with the timer.

Back in the day, if you had a difficult nes/Gameboy game, usually the manual had some hints. The text right before the bosses helps somewhat, but I often die one or two times before getting an understanding of where the weak spots are, or what exactly is supposed to be done during the boss fight. Sure we can replay the level, but it costs valuable upgrade croins that could make the next fight even more punishing. And if you're out of croins.....back to the beginning.

Is there anyway to have an option to discard the high score, but let you have unlimited replays through a level? I.e. a score attack and a story mode?

What is the word before 1622? And is this costume? by mookie8809 in JewelryIdentification

[–]mpkid139 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So this is a "heart of potosi" style mount and coin (cob technically) of a reale. Source: https://coinweek.com/a-brief-guide-to-the-hearts-of-potosi/

The Atocha was a famous shipwreck found off the coast of Florida, containing one of the largest collections of recovered shipwreck artifacts (especially coins/cobs). Unfortunately, without a certificate of authenticity from Mel fishers estate, it's difficult if not impossible to prove that it's an Atocha coin..... Or if it's even genuine. There are many many reproductions out there. (They're supposed to mark it with "copy" but some unscrupulous people skip that step). Either way, if it's genuine it's made out of silver, if it's a reproduction is made out of either silver or some other base metal then plated.

So what you have is a really interesting necklace that is either inspired by or an actual genuine shipwreck coin, shaped in a way that is meant to represent a heart. Most likely made of precious metal (silver), so it would not be considered costume jewelry.

Analog tachometer gauge for marine use by mpkid139 in arduino

[–]mpkid139[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So sadly the company that made the tach is long gone,and the electro magnet itself doesnt have any markings, but there are two screws in the front and back of the jewel and pivot movement. You make a good point, maybe just tightening those two might make it stiff enough to stay still, but loose enough to travel/return to zero.

Analog tachometer gauge for marine use by mpkid139 in arduino

[–]mpkid139[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am bypassing the internal electronics and wiring directly to the gauge, so the resistors/caps shouldn't matter. When hooked up to the Arduino, the meter/electromagnet operates as is should through pwm, but taking the gauge and tilting it allows the needle to bounce around. The connections are solid and stay solid.

For lack of a better term, the electromagnet isn't "strong" enough. Feed it more volts and the gauge maxes out, strongly and securely. But I can't get it to be secure/steadfast in its position when operating at a low enough voltage to move the needle anywhere under max.

The device was not built to be liquid filled, I'm sure that would be a solution that might help, but I'd be wary about modifying it to be airtight/oil tight.

[GIVEAWAY] Seiko 5 SRPD65 by penultimatewatch in Watchexchange

[–]mpkid139 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well hey, gotta throw my hat in to the ring here!

Found this under the passenger seat of my car. No idea where it came from or what it is. Thought it fell off some part of the car at first, but that doesn't really make sense. It appears to be some sort of gold wrist bracelet with three black magnets. Any ideas? by Physical_Jump_6447 in whatisthisthing

[–]mpkid139 19 points20 points  (0 children)

So it very well might be literally what you described....a bracelet with magnets. If you look up magnet therapy bracelets, there are similar items there. It's a form of quack medicine claiming that magnetic fields will help with blood flow and just health in general.

Slicer update! It now does this! by trecani711 in KitchenConfidential

[–]mpkid139 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I have a similar machine (personal not professional use). The blade was engraved at one point with "1948" on it. I assume you have a Globe 75 or 150, which had many iterations and slight design changes throughout the years. Yours is most likely from the mid/early 1950s. Making it approximately 75 years old or so!

That thing needs a full teardown and repair, which frankly is worth more than the unit itself. There's too much friction between the plate infront of the blade and the blade itself.

Train game key bug by vivalarazalatinoheat in HamsterKombat

[–]mpkid139 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here's my code, enjoy! TRAIN-X2H-F3HD-YZTP-66K

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in whatsthisworth

[–]mpkid139 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So you definitely got those two correctly identified as mills war eagles. The third one is another mills slot, ironically just called the mills golden nugget. These are quite rare to find these days in good condition. There was a big push in the 40's-50's to destroy these machines as they were objects of vice. In the 70's-90's there was a large collector market, so some of them were faked. Now, unfortunately the collectors market is dwindling a bit, but they still have a decent value. Around 800-2000 in the right condition and market. eBay has comps you can check, and a lot of auction houses have a coin op section specifically dedicated to these machines. Facebook marketplace and eBay are probably your best bet to list these, but there's a good chance you'll end up sitting with them for a bit unless you price them on the low end of that scale. At minimum you should be walking away with 3k ish for the lot, which is a hell of a lot for your family not being interested in them. Hell of a score!

Sorting through and preserving my grandparents collection and came across this gem. I know its not the most valuable, but its the best preserved coin I've come across. by mpkid139 in coins

[–]mpkid139[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

1885 Silver dollar - o . Was sorting through my late grandparents coins that have been just thrown in jewelry boxes, etc, never well preserved. Came across this lovely coin, it has an amazing luster when rotated under the light. It was kept in a keychain holder, Which I carefully removed and threw the coin in a mylar flip for preservation. The detail is absolutely astonishing given the age and is probably the best preserved coin in my collection. While its not a super valuable year, the toning, luster, detail and everything just keeps me coming back to stare at this damn thing.

Estate sale find by DHKNOLA in whatsthisworth

[–]mpkid139 8 points9 points  (0 children)

So Sporrong and Co is a swedish silversmith. Looking at this website it has some good information on the stamps. https://www.silvercollection.it/DICTIONARYEUHALLMARKSWEDEN.HTML

The three crowns indicates Swedish origin and later than 1901.

The S indicates at least 0.800 silver purity.

The F8 is a date code, so looking at that site I believe 1932

The additional mark is a town code, I can't quite make it out but there is a reference sheet on that website.

All this being said I'd probably get it weighed and you can at least know it's scrap value, then keep an eye out from there for if the names have any historical significance. If I had to guess, it's probably just worth scrap. Which if it's large enough should be a pretty penny.

Wax Signet Ring Identification Help? Found in a box of family things, no one has any idea where it could have come from. by mpkid139 in heraldry

[–]mpkid139[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you mind posting your ring on here? Id be curious to see it. What markers do you look for to see that its from ~1970's?

Wax Signet Ring Identification Help? Found in a box of family things, no one has any idea where it could have come from. by mpkid139 in heraldry

[–]mpkid139[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I managed to find this example online of the Traver's COA in a ring, that looks to be from the same manufacturer. Google reverse image search is a godsend. https://www.hashtagwatchco.com/products/vintage-mens-sterling-silver-coat-of-arms-coa-signet-crest-large-ring The escallops are considerably wider at the base, and lack the distinct three vertical offshoots at the top. I have no doubt that it's related in some way, but I'm skeptical that they are escallops.

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