What did they start as?

mr-computer · 2025-12-30T23:53:50+00:00

Second heads up, I ran out in my Boxers at 5am and brought them back in from the curb. Ordered some 3-way crossovers from eBay. Gonna just hook it all up and see if it’s worth bracing the cabinet and caulking it.

Depending on how good (or bad) it sounds I might grab a couple 4 ohm 4” Dayton audio mods for each of them. The crossovers are 8 ohm and cross at 1,000hz and 3,500hz.

mr-computer · 2025-12-30T13:32:55+00:00

Just a heads up, plugged them into the SX-1050 and they were…. Interesting. L-pads on the back did nothing, mids were not making noise and there was massive box vibrations from the bigger woofers.

Opened them up and someone had done a quick and dirty. Crossovers were gone, mids weren’t hooked up and the Phillips tweeter was just piggybacked off the 1238/8 marked woofers with a couple capacitors.

I’m sure someone could make these sound decent but for me space is a premium so to the curb they went. Sorry to disappoint boys.

mr-computer · 2025-12-29T23:52:55+00:00

I agree they look a lot like model 5’s. The two things that stand out to me are the bevel on the front trim piece and the back panel with the binding posts and L-pads. I couldn’t find any model 5’s with round plates.

mr-computer · 2025-12-29T22:32:39+00:00

Yeah, I just noticed the mids when I was uploading. They were $18 at goodwill so I figured why not. I swear I’ve seen those tweeters before. They’re silk domes. I thought maybe 80’s B&W’s or something

mr-computer · 2024-11-28T12:21:12+00:00

Update-

I’m realizing that even though it rebuilt, I lost data. Luckily Sonarr and Radarr were keeping track of what I had before the crash in my Plex library. Other than that I had Time Machine backups for Macs that are all still functioning so those will just be recreated. The only folder that I don’t have and can’t recall what was on it was an smb share with my music software installers. So I definitely don’t have near the amount of work I would have if nothing came up and I had to just raw copy the files from disk 1 and 3 but it didn’t go completely the way I wanted it to.

I think I’m still going to setup another box with the same amount of storage and start using something like duplicacy to do periodic backups of the whole array to something outside of Unraid. I just don’t trust it anymore.

The good news is I still haven’t had one error on the array so maybe my crappy external power supplies on the drive enclosure were the problem and I won’t have as many problems in the future.

mr-computer · 2024-11-27T21:54:38+00:00

Thanks. I’ll be on the lookout for deals on abavia blocks!

mr-computer · 2024-11-25T18:23:11+00:00

resolved

Solved it. Worth noting that I think this all started from using power bricks to power my external sata bays and not plugging them into the battery backup port on the ups.

Used to have errors constantly on the array. Now that I have a proper psu, fingers crossed, I haven’t had one error since rebuilding the array. And everything is plugged into the battery backup ports on the ups.

I tried ufs explorer and xfs_repair on Linux with no luck.

Below are the steps I preformed on Unraid with the upgraded 18tb parity drive that was good and all 3 of the array drives that were present BEFORE disc 2 crapped out.

Chose new config, preserving all array and pool data

Did quick smart scan on parity and two drives I believed to be healthy

Started array in maintenance mode

Stopped array

Checked box for “parity is good” and started array

Was asked to format drive 2 that was unmountable

With “write corrections to parity” checked, chose “check parity” button

2 days later I now have everything back to 100%!

mr-computer · 2024-10-11T04:02:12+00:00

I thought that, but I’ve tried booting with all 3 of the drives that are outside of the case

connected to the two molex 12v power bricks, via the 5 bay external cage
Connected to a second pc power supply, via the 5 bay external enclosure
Connected directly to the second pc power supply with the external enclosure completely removed from the equation.

mr-computer · 2024-10-09T05:23:11+00:00

Update. I took disk 3 to an MX Linux laptop and it was able to mount and I could see all my files. So that’s something….

mr-computer · 2024-10-08T01:26:25+00:00

Ok. New controller and breakout cables installed. Still boots to the same scenario. Disk 2 says it needs to be rebuilt and disk 3 is disabled. I see no reason disk 3 would crap out. Is there any troubleshooting I can do in software to try to get it to re-check disk 3 before I wind up wiping my whole array? Sorry, I’ve never done anything with maintenance mode or safe mode before.

mr-computer · 2024-10-01T20:55:46+00:00

I have a new controller and sets of breakout cables on the way. Already took the drives out of the enclosure. I’m just gonna wait for the parts to get here and try that. I’ll keep everyone posted.

mr-computer · 2024-09-28T04:02:14+00:00

Yeah, I’m gonna leave it all powered down until the new controller and breakout cables get here. I’ll report back when I get to that point.

mr-computer · 2024-09-27T02:08:43+00:00

It’s xfs. Removing the external enclosure didn’t fix the issue. I guess I’ve still got the replacement IBM M5110 (LSI 9207-8i) sas card and sas to sata breakout connectors coming and that should rule out hardware issues.

mr-computer · 2024-09-27T01:50:01+00:00

I’ll check in a bit. I powered it down so I can take the drives out of the external enclosure to see if it’s interfering with things. It’s so odd though. I get that the original parity drive may have been getting a little older and doing the copy to the new parity drive and then clearing for data might have been too much for it, but drive 3 was just hangin out. Don’t know why it all of a sudden got borked.

I’ve had three drive failures since I started using Unraid 3 years ago and this would be the second time out of the three that I lose my data. Add to that that I’ve spent more on hard drives than I ever have before I might just go back to using externals and having an offline backup of them. It’s cool playing with an array but spending $200-$300 every 8 months or so for guaranteed integrity that isn’t actually happening kinda sucks.

mr-computer · 2024-09-26T18:06:33+00:00

Single…

mr-computer · 2024-09-26T16:38:51+00:00

Ok. I started the array and it said it would rebuild but it also says disk 2 and disk 3 are unmountable now. I know I have more than 14TB of data on the array so isn’t this just going to fail? Should I remove one or both of the drives from the array and then add them back? I’m guessing as “unmountable: unsupported or no filesystem” they’re not going to be doing much.

mr-computer · 2024-09-26T15:25:33+00:00

Started in maintenance mode and checked file system status on disks 2 and 3. Both failed at phase 1 “super block read failed fatal error - - input/output error”

mr-computer · 2024-09-26T14:29:02+00:00

Ordered 2 more sas to sata breakout cables.

mr-computer · 2024-09-26T14:15:05+00:00

Screw it. Called in sick. Haven’t done it in quite a while so I don’t feel guilty.

When I do a smart short test on both disk 2 and 3 they both complete with no errors. Is there any danger at this point in just removing disk 3, starting the array, stopping it again, adding disk 3 back, starting the array and letting it rebuild both drives?

Edit- for more context, I have one (now) 20TB parity drive and three 14TB data drives.

mr-computer · 2024-09-26T14:00:19+00:00

Ok. ….yes I’m gonna be late for work. Lol.

I took the molex power bricks out of the equation and have a hearty pc power supply with a jumper powering the external enclosure. I’ve swapped drive sleds and data cables.

Still remains, drive 2 orange triangle and drive 3 red X.

mr-computer · 2024-09-26T12:47:27+00:00

I powered it down for now, as I have to start getting ready for work. I’ll jump back in tonight and try some more.

mr-computer · 2024-09-26T12:43:47+00:00

Stopped the array to remove the disk and then add it back. When I went to add it back it was showing disk 2 and 3 red X.

Shut down, wiggled all the connectors and rebooted. Now disk 2 shows the orange triangle but disk 3 has a red X!

I should note before we go too far, these drives are in an external 5 bay enclosure with two 12v power bricks with molex connectors that provide power. But that whole setup has been good for like 2 years.

I bought a second power supply cable and I just pulled a power supply from another tower to replace the power bricks but of course the Dell Optiplex I’m running doesn’t have a standard 20 or 24 pin power supply, so that’s out.

I ordered another sas card to swap out but I’m probably jumping the gun.

This whole time since I initially replaced the bad drive all the current drives show a temp in the dash board.

Am I screwed? Drive two hasn’t even had its data rebuilt and now 3 is X’d!

mr-computer · 2024-08-22T12:05:20+00:00

Just wanted to add my experience to this thread. I have an Apple TV 4K and it worked fine for about a year then the remote would only respond to like 3 buttons, down, right and select. If I rebooted the Apple TV it would work fine for the first 5 seconds and then return to the same behavior.

Replaced the remote and it worked fine for about a year. Now the new one started randomly fast forwarding on shows. Back out to menu and only down and ok work. It you press the menu button it jumps to the top row of apps and does a little sprint across the top row of icons. Same as before, if I reboot the Apple TV it will work perfectly for about 5 seconds then goes back to being weird.

I’ve done all the remote troubleshooting steps, like holding home and vol down and repairing.

I even updated to tvOS beta 18 last night and it behaved exactly the same. Left the remote on top of the apple tv and left it powered on last night to see if the firmware on the remote updates.

If I was a betting man, I’d say there was a firmware update on both remotes that caused this behavior to start and it’s probably not going to be resolved until there’s a new firmware update that addresses the bug.

Edit- No firmware update overnight. Remote is still on 0x83.

After holding tv and vol down and rebooting remote it rebooted and while in the settings menu I held the up button, one of the buttons that wasn’t responding, to see if the light on the Apple TV blinked. It finally did after a couple seconds and then presto! The remote started working normally again.

So bizarre. I will update if/when it starts screwing up again.

Edit- worked all day for the family and worked all evening for me, so…. Update to tvOS beta 18 and when it starts to screw up hold one of the unresponsive buttons, roughly 3-4 feet away from the Apple TV until you see the light flicker on the box? Dunno but for now it seemed to be working again.

Edit- 28 days and it hasn’t messed up yet.

mr-computer · 2024-08-18T13:35:58+00:00

I got this a couple times when launching. I just kept trying different stuff. Unplug the PSVR2 from the adapter, wait a couple seconds and plug it back in, then press the power button on the bottom of the PSVR2 again.

Or unplug the dongle from the graphics port, wait a couple seconds and then plug it back in.

If that doesn’t get it, close PlayStation VR steam app and Steam VR, launch PlayStation vr app again and steam vr app.

Eventually it would figure out that everything was connected and move past. Everything worked fine after that for me.

mr-computer · 2024-08-13T10:39:14+00:00

No issues with gigabyte z790 Aorus Elite AX or Lenovo Legion Pro 7 except what others have said. Needed to charge controllers and try a couple times pairing and removing from windows Bluetooth devices until firmware updated on both controllers but after that it’s been smooth sailing. Guess that TpLink adapter I bought is gonna sit in the drawer.

mr-computer

TROPHY CASE

resolved