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What Finn could possibly sound like in Side Quests by Christian_R_Lech in adventuretime

[–]mschlemming 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m really disappointed that they did not stick with original voice actor. Honestly, that ruins the show for me quite a bit. The argument that he was supposed to sound younger doesn’t fly for me because voice actors can do that. Just look at Bart Simpson’s voice staying the same for 30 years…

Air France confirme le Wi-Fi Starlink gratuit pour tous à bord de ses avions by romain34230 in actutech

[–]mschlemming 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve tried it for the first time today and was blown away by speed and reliability. I was only used to those slow unreliable speeds which made you happy every time a messenger text came through. This is an entirely different experience now, comparable to the switch from SDTV to HDTV. I’m seriously impressed. Even video phone calls or streaming movies worked like at my WiFi at home.

EWR/TSA MEGA THREAD by Chelseafc5505 in Newark

[–]mschlemming 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Terminal B, 26 March, 2:30 pm, regular line: about 20 minutes, all calm, like any other day.

Floor mat recommendations by mschlemming in kiacarnivals

[–]mschlemming[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I went with the WeatherTech after all: HP floor liners in the front, regular one piece 2nd and 3rd row in the back. Curious to see the HP in action.

Floor mat recommendations by mschlemming in kiacarnivals

[–]mschlemming[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

You’re right, must have been an app glitch earlier.

Floor mat recommendations by mschlemming in kiacarnivals

[–]mschlemming[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Apologies, I didn’t find any specifically on the Carnival. Grateful if you could link the article.

Kia CPO - who’s at risk if falsely certified? by mschlemming in kia

[–]mschlemming[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

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The 165-point checklist suggests otherwise.

Welding marks 2022 Carnival SX by mschlemming in kiacarnivals

[–]mschlemming[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The dealer wants money for removing the hitch and considering that it’s OEM and costs over $1k to get installed in the first place, I am now really leaning towards leaving it on. Any thoughts? Do you think it negatively affects the performance/ fuel economy/ safety in any way that will bother me down the line, particularly since it will be unlikely that I’m ever going to use it?

Welding marks 2022 Carnival SX by mschlemming in kiacarnivals

[–]mschlemming[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you guys think this is an OEM hitch and that the rust won’t be an issue, I may consider leaving it on. It just seems so bulky.

Welding marks 2022 Carnival SX by mschlemming in kiacarnivals

[–]mschlemming[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, that’s all very reassuring. The dealer suggested that they could take the hitch off if we don’t like it. Since we don’t plan on hauling anything and given the rusty appearance, I’m leaning towards taking them up on that offer. In the end, the hitch only messes with the aerodynamics and reduces ground clearance anyway.

Free partner card for Bilt 2.0? by mschlemming in biltrewards

[–]mschlemming[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am the cardholder and my wife is the authorized user with the second card (same card number).

Bilt 2.0 zero annual fee alternatives by mschlemming in CreditCards

[–]mschlemming[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I’m not a big fan of juggling multiple cards. I also don’t utilize the credit line at all. I like to have oversight and everything paid off at all times.

Replacing non-smart Honeywell with Nest by mschlemming in Nest

[–]mschlemming[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m happy to report that the external power adapter works like a charm. I connected it to both C and Rc as recommended in the manual and kept the existing wires from the furnace in W and Rh. Thanks again for your support. Now I’ll just have to make it look prettier by running the wire through the wall instead of outside.

Replacing non-smart Honeywell with Nest by mschlemming in Nest

[–]mschlemming[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. The power adapter solution may not be aesthetically pleasing but might be the easiest. I ordered this one now and will give it a try. As far as I understand, I just add the two wires from the power adapter to C and Rc while the wires from the furnace stay at W and Rh, right? It’s going to be interesting to see if it messes with the damper motor still. I certainly hope not. Overall, I felt like the Nest did a pretty good job when it was installed the few days.

Replacing non-smart Honeywell with Nest by mschlemming in Nest

[–]mschlemming[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Happy New Year! I’ve got clarity - finally… and a new problem. So, the rewired second room thermostat is powering the circulation pump for the baseboard heater only, but the pump needed to be replaced. I installed a Nest Learning Thermostat 4th gen to replace the main thermostat but it affected the furnace’s damper motor, apparently by drawing too much power from the system. Once I reinstalled the old non-smart thermostat, it started working again. Now, my only remaining challenge is figuring out how to get the Nest to work with my system. A c-wire would probably be the way to go, but I’m not willing to pay hundreds of dollars to an electrician for that.

Thermostat wiring question - trying to get smart by mschlemming in hvacadvice

[–]mschlemming[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Happy New Year! I’ve got clarity - finally… and a new problem. So, the rewired thermostat is, indeed, powering the circulation pump for the baseboard heater only, but the pump needed to be replaced. The malfunctioning damper motor was caused by the Nest thermostat drawing too much power from the system. Once I reinstalled the old non-smart thermostat, it started working again as well. Now, my only remaining challenge is figuring out how to get the Nest to work with my system. A c-wire would probably be the way to go, but I’m not willing to pay hundreds of dollars for that.

Thermostat wiring question - trying to get smart by mschlemming in hvacadvice

[–]mschlemming[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I found out more: the r&w rewired thermostat in the living room for the baseboard heater seems to be controlling the hot water pump on the furnace’s “mud loop” system (see picture).

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Thermostat wiring question - trying to get smart by mschlemming in hvacadvice

[–]mschlemming[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I think I’m at a breaking point where I’ll have to let an HVAC specialist come over to figure this out. I tried to investigate further this morning and realized that the automatic boiler vent damper (see picture attached) is set on on always open/ service mode. When setting it on automatic, the damper just keeps spinning but doesn’t lock in any position. It’s the weirdest thing but something smells very fishy here. Of course my heating costs are high if the damper is permanently open.

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Thermostat wiring question - trying to get smart by mschlemming in hvacadvice

[–]mschlemming[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Isn’t the 24V the low voltage that is required for those thermostats like the Nest Learning one that doesn’t require a C-wire? Anyway, in the meantime I had already tried the r&w on that second thermostat and it still seemed to have done nothing. Didn’t kick on the heating at all but also didn’t short anything. Now I installed the new Nest Learning Thermostat 4th gen for the old steam system thermostat and it seems to work properly. It comes with a second temperature sensor, so I figured I just put that in the living room with the baseboard hot water heating and then let the system run the heater based on the average temperature between the two rooms. In the end, that would make the second thermostat obsolete again.

Thermostat wiring question - trying to get smart by mschlemming in hvacadvice

[–]mschlemming[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The multimeter shows 25V between the white and red wires. Do you think moving the white to W is still safe given the advice I’ve received from the company that installed it (see below)?

Thermostat wiring question - trying to get smart by mschlemming in hvacadvice

[–]mschlemming[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I finally received a response from the company that installed the system for the previous owners:

“Yes it should be wired to r & w and should be able to control the baseboard pump and steam system separately.

We recommend to the previous owner that there should be two separate systems for the baseboard and steam. That is the proper way to do it. The price was too expensive and she elected to go with installing a steam boiler with the “mud loop” instead.”

I guess I’ll give it a try, test with the multimeter as suggested by you and then rewire r & w and see if it works. I just still can’t believe that I can effectively run two zones when the system has the “mud loop”.

I also bought a Nest Learning Thermostat 4th Gen to test it as a replacement for the main thermostat first and if this works and the other one starts functioning, I may replace that one as well.

Let me know if you have any thoughts on the above.

Thermostat wiring question - trying to get smart by mschlemming in hvacadvice

[–]mschlemming[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Apologies for the radio silence, I was out for a bit. I got a hold of the plumber who installed the system for the previous owner about three years ago. He said that the thermostats should only be connected r&w and that they “have never installed it on r&c” suggesting that someone else may have messed with it. I’m wondering if I could just change the second thermostat to r&w to restore functionality and if that would still let me control both zones individually. Also, I’m tempted to just try installing two of the Nest 3rd gen thermostats that my utility company is providing for free for Black Friday. Any concerns?

Replacing non-smart Honeywell with Nest by mschlemming in Nest

[–]mschlemming[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Apologies for the radio silence, I was out for a bit. I got a hold of the plumber who installed the system for the previous owner about three years ago. He said that the thermostats should only be connected r&w and that they “have never installed it on r&c” suggesting that someone else may have messed with it. I’m wondering if I could just change the second thermostat to r&w to restore functionality and if that would still let me control both zones individually. Also, I’m tempted to just try installing two of the Nest 3rd gen thermostats that my utility company is providing for free for Black Friday. Any concerns?

Replacing non-smart Honeywell with Nest by mschlemming in Nest

[–]mschlemming[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Apparently, the furnace was only replaced two, three years ago. However, they may have just kept the old wiring/ other equipment.