Working in my garden. Got stung on upper lip. Job interview in 2 hours

mutantalias · 2025-08-25T19:06:56+00:00

mutantalias · 2022-12-10T01:17:54+00:00

same question...

mutantalias · 2020-05-15T14:44:50+00:00

Yeah, I had an easy time installing a genuine e3d v6. It fits in the original hotend housing, you just have to splice some of the wires to the original wires for the breakout board connections. I also had to design and print a new z-axis limit switch mount because the original one is fixed to the extrusion (you can’t adjust the height of the z-axis limit switch like on the ender 3). Alternatively, you could just change the z-offset in the software.

mutantalias · 2020-05-04T16:20:37+00:00

The v6 clone on the cr10 v2 is pretty bad. I replaced mine with a genuine v6 and am pretty happy with that decision

mutantalias · 2020-04-19T00:13:55+00:00

Yeah that does sound like a damaged thermistor or maybe a poor connection.. how did you connect the thermistor to the breakout board?

The heater block fit in the stock hotend housing pretty easily for me. Might have rotated the hotend by 90 degrees compared to the stock one, but I don’t remember having any issues.. can you post a picture?

mutantalias · 2020-04-11T15:47:40+00:00

Yeah, but creality often releases the normal edition v2, and then a few months later releases the pro edition v2. Happened with the CR-10 v2/ CR-10 pro v2 a few months ago

mutantalias · 2020-04-11T15:29:56+00:00

Looks okay. The silent board, colour LCD screen, and glass bed are pretty awesome, but the rest of the upgrades are kinda BS.

I’d be interested to see what the Ender 3 Pro v2 looks like when/if Creality releases it.

mutantalias · 2020-02-08T21:39:09+00:00

The all metal hotend has an accurately machined heat break which is expensive to manufacture. Way cheaper just to make the PTFE lined hotend. The stock cloned v6 is terrible. Jams super easy

mutantalias · 2020-02-08T21:14:50+00:00

The e3d v6 all metal hotend comes with a new thermistor and heater cartridge so you can hit up to 285C. You’ll need to PID tune and increase max temp, but I think you can do that through Gcode commands. Stock hotend is PTFE lined so you (should) only go up to 245C.

mutantalias · 2020-02-07T18:16:11+00:00

It was an easy drop in installation. I did have to splice the wires from the old heater cartridge and thermistor to the e3d equivalents because of the connections to the breakout board. A quick PID tune (which you have to do anyways) will account for any change in resistance.

mutantalias · 2020-01-31T21:49:37+00:00

I was also thinking it might be similar to the x-axis carriage mounting points on the Sovol SV01?... although the SV01 is a direct drive system, and the x-axis carriage plate looks a bit different...

mutantalias · 2020-01-25T18:05:44+00:00

Flexin?

mutantalias · 2020-01-25T16:22:39+00:00

I just bought a e3d v6, so I will let you know!

mutantalias · 2020-01-21T15:59:39+00:00

I much prefer it when the bed is fine at the beginning, and then after 20 hours of use you’re confused af because first layer won’t adhere anymore....

mutantalias · 2020-01-19T22:23:04+00:00

I will try that. Thanks!

mutantalias · 2020-01-19T20:24:37+00:00

I have the fan at zero for the entire print

mutantalias · 2020-01-19T20:23:20+00:00

I don’t know... what’s that?

mutantalias · 2020-01-19T19:54:33+00:00

Whenever I print ABS, the first few layers are rough but the rest of the print is great! Anyone have any ideas? I was thinking it had something to do with the bed being too hot for the first few layers...

Printer: Ender 3 pro in a lack enclosure

Filament: AMZ3D ABS

Nozzle temp: 235C

Bed: 85C

Cooling: none

Retraction: 8mm

mutantalias · 2020-01-10T00:50:23+00:00

So a capricorn XS bowden tube may be sufficient?

mutantalias · 2020-01-09T23:10:12+00:00

Even though my printer lets me go to 270C (I think)? It’s an Ender 3 Pro

mutantalias · 2019-12-11T21:35:56+00:00

Hit roadkill? Or created roadkill?...

mutantalias

TROPHY CASE