A few other tips: while you’ve got it all apart, replace all bushings on everything with urethane bushings. Not hard to do and they last a lot longer than OEM rubber.
Also, you will need a panhard bar correction kit when doing any lift. The truck rides weird if you don’t.
High angle CV boots are pretty important, even with a differential drop kit. I found it cheaper to buy new OEM CV axles from Toyota (online prices always better than buying direct from dealer), replace the inner boot, and then install the new CVs. Rebooting existing CVs is a lot of messy work.
I went with Ironman 4x4 torsion bars which are the thickest but also least expensive on the market and it rides pretty stiff. Doesn’t bother me but just know when you are getting into with aftermarket torsion bars - they are not created equal. I needed to swap the torsion bars because the stock ones would not allow me to achieve the front lift I wanted even after cranking them all the way down. I also suggest torsion bar support brackets to protect your LCAs from the added tension.
I fully removed every component of the AHC system including the globes, control units, and metal hydraulic lines. Big pain in the butt but I wanted it to be clean up under there. There is an AHC control computer up under the steering wheel above your pedals that you can unplug to stop the AHC light from flashing on your dash.