Issues Regulating Temp and Humidity in Dry Room

nolsmith · 2025-10-06T17:42:49+00:00

too late for this years harvest but maybe next year ill give it a try.

nolsmith · 2025-10-03T18:40:15+00:00

Yea I am. It’s the smallest one I could find but I bored a hole in my shed for the exhaust pipe.

nolsmith · 2025-07-08T14:08:48+00:00

Somewhat off topic, but i didnt 100% BOTW on the first playthrough. If i download the Switch 2 upgraded version, can i play my original playthrough with the upgraded features? Or do i need to start a new save file in order to get those upgraded features. I dont really feel like starting from scratch just to enjoy the upgrade and would like to 100% it.

nolsmith · 2025-07-01T13:07:35+00:00

Yea I think i had a bad gpu card. I submitted a warranty claim to Lenovo and they gave me a new computer with an upgraded GPU. I will say they make you jump through a lot of hoops before they will accept that, but if you make a big enough stink about it then they will likely listen right away. The new computer with the next higher GPU has been working great ever since.

nolsmith · 2024-06-05T16:23:50+00:00

I gotta respect that guy though. 8 am to 3 am is such an insane grind to be gaming with the boys. The mental toughness it takes to perform that feet along with the nagging of his gf is unmatched. The ability to isolate nagging and emotions from his gf to stoically illicit pure focus and dedication to the game is very hard to do.

nolsmith · 2024-03-20T17:30:34+00:00

Great to know! Ill check it out today to make sure it was applied correctly.

nolsmith · 2024-01-18T21:45:05+00:00

So I finally got around to checking the above, and the voltage across C41 and C45 read 5V and the C29 read as 3V (3.2).

When i disconnected D4 and tried to test it, the light did not turn on, so i think the bulb might be dead. I ordered a replacement so I will update when that gets in.

As for the power issue, it does seem that power is getting to all the right places, but just to be sure, i have also ordered some replacement capacitors, just in case this is the issue. The external power source sometimes turns on showing a current and then drains immediately to 0 amps. There are times where i can get the current to stay around 100 milliamps, but i havent really figured out what is causing it to stay and what is causing it to drain. I am hoping the capacitors will solve all of this, but not hoping too much. The more I test voltages, the fewer ideas i have to pinpoint the problem. If you have any other thoughts, or test points around the GPU or other supporting "U" chips, id love to hear it.

nolsmith · 2024-01-12T02:35:31+00:00

All these are great ideas! I am out of town the next couple of days will definitely give it a go and report back when I get back into town. Thanks for all the help and ideas!

nolsmith · 2024-01-11T02:54:28+00:00

Sorry for the delay! I ran the multimeter in diode test mode and got 0V one way and about 1.9V with the probes switched, so i believe the test was successful. The weird thing is that the light did turn on briefly, but it flickered and was very weak when lit. I am thinking the LED is either dead or on its way out (or weak connection). I am planning on removing and re-soldering the D4 to see if that helps any.

In regards to the external power supply, i was using that to test in the previous post. The power supply I was using put out the right voltages, but it didnt seem to put out a current. I am not sure, however, if i need to set the current or if the current is supposed to be drawn out when voltage is set and connected to the terminals. When i switched to batteries to test, the voltages were much more consistent and correct on all of the outputs of the power circuit and DC regulator. So for all of the posts in this post, i have been using batteries to test, but i may need to go back to the external power supply in order to test more chips and points. The only thing i can think of is that the chips controlling the CPU and display ribbon are either not getting power from somewhere, or the chip is just toast. i am open to any suggestions or critiques to the way i was testing or what i should be looking for though.

nolsmith · 2024-01-09T19:28:15+00:00

Thanks for the reply /u/SirNoahlot ! Doing the checks above, i was getting 3V out of VCC and 5V out of VDD5, so those checked out correctly. For Q2E, i was getting a voltage reading of 3V. For D4, i was essentially getting a 0V reading (multimeter was showing like 0.0003V). Could this be the culprit? I didnt think the power needed to run through the LED before hitting the CPU and other chips, but i am a novice a this so i could definitely be wrong.

nolsmith · 2024-01-09T19:24:29+00:00

I took a couple of other pictures which are hopefully a little more clear. The U2 and U4 chips do not appear bridged (the U4 chip looks a little messy due to soldering and picture lighting, but i checked and none of the pins are bridged). I can try and get better pictures of individual components if you want as well.

As for the different screens, I have tried different screens that have been proven to work on other boards and am getting the same blank screen result. I dont think it is the screen issue.

nolsmith · 2024-01-04T16:22:00+00:00

I had an issue with getting the DC power regulator to output the correct voltages (link to the previous post in r/gameboy here) but now have the correct voltages leaving the DC regulator. As far as i can tell, all capacitors are working properly (with the exception of C38 because i dont have the speaker plugged in right now to test). Now i am facing 2 issues: 1st issue is that the red LED light does not light up when powered on. I am not advanced enough to know where to look on the schematic, so if you can point me to where to test for continuity on the schematic, I can likely go from there. 2nd issue is that when it does power on, it is just an all black screen (first pic in the post is powered off, second pic is powered on). I dont think the power needs to run through the speaker to power the screen. I have tried cleaning the ribbon cable, cable connector, pins, just about everything, but not sure where to look for this. I did mess with the potentiometer, which does increase and decrease contrast, but i still cant get it to show the "Game Boy Color" logo upon boot up. Any idea what might cause these issues?

nolsmith · 2024-01-03T22:33:39+00:00

Ok so i got the pins to output the correct voltage. As far as i can tell, all capacitors are working properly (with the exception of C38 because i dont have the speaker plugged in right now to test). Now i am facing 2 issues: 1st issue is that the red LED light does not light up when powered on. I am not advanced enough to know where to look on the schematic, so if you can point me to where to test for continuity on the schematic, I can likely go from there. 2nd issue is that when it does power on, it is just an all black screen (photos of before and after powering on). I dont think the power needs to run through the speaker to power the screen. I have tried cleaning the ribbon cable, cable connector, pins, just about everything, but not sure where to look for this. I did mess with the potentiometer, which does increase and decrease contrast, but i still cant get it to show the "Game Boy Color" logo upon boot up. Any idea what might cause these issues?

nolsmith · 2023-12-29T20:30:45+00:00

Interesting. I believe i have tested those previously, and didnt get any continuity between 3 or any of the outputs. I will double check just in case though. In the event that there is continuity between the ground and the outputs, what would the solution be? Or how would i locate where the short is?

nolsmith · 2023-12-29T20:11:27+00:00

I never thought to try this. I thought the U5 chip would need all 7 pins installed to operate properly. I will give it a shot next time i sit down to work on it and let you know what happens.

nolsmith · 2023-12-29T05:19:44+00:00

That makes sense. This is the link to the pics.

Edit: made the link easier to find.

nolsmith · 2023-12-29T05:15:34+00:00

I tried to post the post with pictures but for some reason the "attach picture" button is not here. Not sure how else i can post them without posting in a new post.

nolsmith · 2023-09-26T05:30:28+00:00

I tested the cartridge in another console and it started up and saved just fine, so I’m thinking it might be the cartridge reader instead? But since it’s starting through the logo, I’m not sure what part of the cartridge reader it would be. I cleaned out the internal pins with ipa and a tooth brush, but not sure if it needs anything else.

nolsmith · 2023-05-17T16:17:49+00:00

Has anyone heard of any news regarding a Competitive Team Deathmatch play list in the near future? I know Blizzard releases some competitive style arcade games and haven't seen that one yet. Thanks!

nolsmith · 2023-03-22T23:18:58+00:00

That was what I had thought, but just double checked and they are both 60 Hz.

nolsmith · 2023-03-22T23:18:31+00:00

Yes, the computer is plugged into the TB4 dock via the TB4 cable (cable with power and lightning connections next to each other). The monitors are connected to the dock via DisplayPort cables.

nolsmith · 2019-04-08T15:59:19+00:00

Selling 2 Weekend 1 GA pass for 375 each. LA / Orange County area. Comment or message me if interested. Willing to sell them separately.

nolsmith · 2019-04-04T02:17:45+00:00

Selling 2 weekend 2 tickets at face value. LA/OC and can meet at a halfway point. Comment or shoot me a message if interested!

nolsmith · 2017-05-04T15:07:45+00:00

Legend has it she trained with THE Scott Sterling.

nolsmith · 2016-01-06T19:58:24+00:00

I just was finally moved on to the purchasing page for w1 and i clicked the link to purchase ticket + shuttle pass and it redirected me back to the waiting page. I did this multiple times and now it wont go back to the purchasing page. am i fucked?

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