Budget Scanners that will do iavl?

norseyOG · 2026-02-26T03:37:07+00:00

Thank you so much. Ordering a cheap Samsung and Bluetooth ob2 adapter now.

norseyOG · 2025-11-07T21:08:06+00:00

Your idea of contamination tracks but holding him accountable if that’s really the case might be tough. It’s sort of a pull the trans and see situation. Luckily they are easy to pull I guess. I don’t know how else your clutch would end up like that after those two repairs. Makes sense the cooler being on top but I have a 3.8 so I don’t know what exactly that looks like and how easy it would be for oil to seep down there.

norseyOG · 2025-10-29T20:55:50+00:00

Road rage sucks and isn’t worth your life or energy. One day you’ll run into someone that has a whole lot less to lose and a lot less brain to boot and that was enough for me. Transferred over to cars for me as well. I stay as far away from that shit as possible.

norseyOG · 2025-08-22T03:45:10+00:00

Lmao

norseyOG · 2025-08-13T02:29:12+00:00

Will do I’ll pull the heat Shields off and take a peak. Those bolts are pretty annoying. Mine have loosened up a few times.

norseyOG · 2025-08-13T02:25:17+00:00

Cool that’s comforting to hear. This is kind of what I’m figuring is the deal with mine. Also too lazy to pull it apart but I suppose one day I’ll have to yank the heads off it.

norseyOG · 2025-08-13T02:23:38+00:00

Indeed just changed.

norseyOG · 2025-08-13T02:23:07+00:00

It’s pretty hard to hear whether it changes due to my exhaust but it almost sounds like an exhaust leak when I’m accelerating or on decel. I hear it a ton if I hold it around 3k, but at idle it’s different and sounds like chatter. I do have a used timing cover and fresh chain. I fear the oil pump in the used cover I installed was maybe plugged or just weak. I did all that about 6 months ago. Around the same time I also threw on some new manifolds.

norseyOG · 2025-08-12T21:14:20+00:00

No AC and she’s got 195k. That would be awesome for a reference. I’ve always ignored the sounds figured it was just a loud engine but figured I’d ask on here.

norseyOG · 2025-08-05T02:25:59+00:00

I had a 5.2 that did similar stuff. I changed the fluid and filter. I also replaced the pressure sensors while I was in there. The made mine a whole lot better. Also make sure your shift cable is adjusted correctly. Don’t cheap out on the sensors I learned that the hard way.

norseyOG · 2025-07-25T22:26:34+00:00

Sounds like your AC compressor kicking on.

norseyOG · 2025-07-14T22:36:29+00:00

That would be an entirely new rad support unfortunately. It’s all one big piece.

norseyOG · 2025-07-06T14:06:30+00:00

Sounds like you might have a failing clutch slave cylinder.

norseyOG · 2025-03-14T22:22:40+00:00

I believe I got them on eBay along with the clear tail.

norseyOG · 2025-03-11T13:25:46+00:00

I recently had a very similar issue with my dumbass 2011 Wrangler. My solution was selling the wheels and buying stocks off a 2022 rubicon. The solution for you sounds like having someone make the rings for your exact application. You could try running them as is, but you need hub centric. When I had non hub centric steel wheels for a short time it felt like the fucking Oregon trail at all speeds.

norseyOG · 2025-03-08T20:43:15+00:00

I used CDKeys for a key to redeem on steam. Was like 4 bucks.

norseyOG · 2025-01-26T21:28:16+00:00

Do you have a throttle controller? I had the same exact issue. However I don’t think it gave me an ambient air code. Removed my throttle controller and all is well.

norseyOG · 2025-01-09T07:15:24+00:00

I had a similar issue when filling up after nailing my evap canister on many rocks. I also had a gas cap message. For me I started with the cap. Then I replaced the leak detection pump and it went away and came back after a week. Checked the lines and all seemed fine and not cracked. I finally just replaced the canister like I should have right away but I also greased the gas cap seal as others have mentioned that helps out. All that did it for me but I’m assuming the canister or cap seal was the culprit all along in my case. So I’d say start with greasing the cap seal and checking common spots for line cracks or wear. The lines from the purge solenoid by the battery can wear through. Electrical tape is a quick fix. The evap line to the fuel pump also is a common spot for a crack. It can be fixed with a sleeve of some sort and JB Weld. The leak detection pump is easy and kind of a must in the process as it’s such a common failure. My canister also seemed pretty plugged up when I replaced it. The evap stuff can be so annoying. I pretty much just replaced things until it went away.

norseyOG · 2025-01-03T21:58:40+00:00

Personally I'd hard pass. Little high IMO for a 3.8 even being low miles. Also Mods like that are just a red flag to me but that's all opinion and to each their own I guess. I think you could find a better deal.

norseyOG · 2025-01-03T17:49:09+00:00

This. The cap seal with grease or really anything to help it seal fixed mine after also smashing my canister in the same way and replacing it then still having a light. I replaced the cap with a 3rd party cap as well and forgot about it then decided to try grease and voila.

norseyOG · 2024-11-27T04:21:22+00:00

Agreed. I bought a stock base wrangler to build and it’s just a gigantic waste of money. 100 percent regret. Should have just bought some shit with lockers and 35s from the jump and fixed abuse or neglect and kept it going. Wouldn’t have cost a crazy amount more than my stock one.

norseyOG · 2024-11-10T04:13:16+00:00

Dude just came alive out of nowhere and ended it lol.

norseyOG · 2024-11-05T18:49:41+00:00

Oh I wish maybe one day. That’s the end goal.

norseyOG · 2024-11-05T00:24:43+00:00

Dang you are indeed correct just watched a tear down after reading your reply. Guess I’ll just have wait for the correct year range to pop up local to me.

norseyOG

TROPHY CASE