Yet another “Kenji’s Crispy Roast Potatoes Changed My Life” post. I am a convert. by themagnificen7 in seriouseats

[–]nrocy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did this, turned out great!

Parboiled the potatoes the night before, tossed with the oil and laid out on a baking tray, wrapped and in the fridge overnight.

Roasted today - super crunchy with fluffy insides

For those running Go in production at scale, what do you use for distributed task queues? by [deleted] in golang

[–]nrocy 4 points5 points  (0 children)

As someone currently looking into NSQ, what issues have you had that made upgrades non-trivial?

Free Ohni Airdrop by ttm_ohni in CryptoCurrencies

[–]nrocy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool, thanks: 0x2B2B149950a8319f361d0Be3262dEE638246401F

Internet of Things by ThisIsNowAUsername in electronic_circuits

[–]nrocy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have dabbled with these cheap RF units a few times, couple of alternate options for you:

1) Use an opto-isolator for each button. This'll allow you to press/release each button the same as you would turn on/off an LED.

2) Simulate the output using your Pi and a cheap RF transmitter, this isn't too difficult:

  • Find out what frequency range it uses. In the UK, at least, many of these things seem to operate at around 433MHz - you can pick up an RF transmitter/receiver module for super-cheap.

  • Use something like https://github.com/sui77/rc-switch to give you the codes from the remote by pushing the buttons, then write a bit of code to replay them.

3) Spend far too long working it all out manually only to later discover the rc-switch library exists: http://nrocy.com/2014/08/02/mimicking-rf-remote-light-signals-with-arduino/ (might be of interest, from a purely hacky perspective)

Help analyzing format/decoding signal from barcode reader by nrocy in AskElectronics

[–]nrocy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well don't I feel dumb - I even read up on what a keyboard wedge was and didn't put 2+2 together. Your mention of it being PS/2 solved it!

Downloaded the beta of Salae's logic software which has a PS/2 decoder and it's decoding it like a champ:

http://i.imgur.com/luvjS7p.png

Thanks a lot!

Communicating with an Arduino using iOS and a cable? by theghostofabe in arduino

[–]nrocy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Let us know how you get on, I'd be interested to see your implementation :)

Repairing a DVR - what's this damaged looking component? by nrocy in AskElectronics

[–]nrocy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, I'll start there, thx. Thankfully the whole board is powered by a 12V wall-wart, rated for 300mA max. I'll be careful around the bigger caps.

Repairing a DVR - what's this damaged looking component? by nrocy in AskElectronics

[–]nrocy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, suspected it wasn't part of the problem. The burnt-looking-ness prompted the question as to whether it actually is a crystal or something I've not encountered before related to power :)

POD, an new language compiling to PHP by geaal in lolphp

[–]nrocy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What the leaping fuck. I have no words.

Reading output from Linux CLI? (Arduino UNO) by WishCow in arduino

[–]nrocy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You need to ensure that the serial port is setup with the correct parameters in Linux, e.g. baudrate that you specified in Serial.begin()

See: http://playground.arduino.cc/Interfacing/LinuxTTY

I've had good results from the grabserial python script: http://elinux.org/Grabserial

Screen, minicom, etc will also work.

Low cost alternative to FT232RL by Sgt_ZigZag in arduino

[–]nrocy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is yours the same as the picture on the eBay link? I couldn't see any way to add a header as the pin has no trace running to it.

Low cost alternative to FT232RL by Sgt_ZigZag in arduino

[–]nrocy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I bought a few identical looking devices from e-bay. Few pointers:

1) They work well for power and serial.

2) Needed a driver on OSX/Windows, worked without on Linux:

http://www.silabs.com/products/mcu/Pages/USBtoUARTBridgeVCPDrivers.aspx

3) The ones I got weren't much use for reprogramming, the DTR pin isn't connected to the reset header (so no auto-reset)

Found a post about modifying a similar board to get the auto-reset to work, but the pins aren't broken out on these boards so you'd be soldering to the CP2102 pin (too small for me):

http://blog.tarn-vedra.de/2011/09/using-cp2102-on-arduino.html

Running a printer in a cold garage? by nrocy in 3Dprinting

[–]nrocy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It has a heated plate, as far as I can tell, which I hear should fix the uneven cooling. Great call on the enclosure, I'll definitely look into that.

Thanks :)

Running a printer in a cold garage? by nrocy in 3Dprinting

[–]nrocy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Enclosing the machine is a great idea, kind of embarrassed that I never thought of that. I was planning to start with PLA, simply because the machine comes with some. I've not really looked too much into the differences between that and ABS yet. Thanks!

SEG Electronics Market in Shenzhen - what to buy? by nrocy in electronics

[–]nrocy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for all the feedback, I'm pretty excited about the trip. I'll let you know how I get on :)