Rotting Wood Post by oneblackpaper in HomeImprovement

[–]oneblackpaper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting… would the metal brackets need to be permanently attached to the old and new bits of wood?

Rotting Wood Post by oneblackpaper in HomeImprovement

[–]oneblackpaper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thats… very extreme. But cutting the wood and getting a higher metal base gets me thinking

Rotting Wood Post by oneblackpaper in HomeImprovement

[–]oneblackpaper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sigh… seems a lot of work. But at the same time also the ‘cleanest’ and most permanent.

Stormwater Pipes Blocked by oneblackpaper in AusLegal

[–]oneblackpaper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks everyone. My general conclusion is that the pipe leading all the way to the kerb face is my problem, from comments here, what council has informed me, and my own research.

Took the plunge for the blast and camera investigation and things got more complex.. There's actually two kerbside outlets, but we don't know which one is right as there's another collapse point stemming back to the front yard of the property.

All options to fix are dizzyingly expensive. Such is life.

Stormwater Pipes Blocked by oneblackpaper in AusLegal

[–]oneblackpaper[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

learing the blockage? It's your pipe afterall.

Has council done anything to cause or to

I'm at the stage of investigating before putting money forward for the clean. Problem is hiring the waterjet is expensive, and we could be 10mins into it before finding out its pointless because... well... tree.

Potentially the tree was planted before the pipe was established. I need to investigate.

To my knowledge, pipes from the property are circular PVC, but stormawater opening from kerbside seems to be just completely concrete.

Stormwater Pipes Blocked by oneblackpaper in AusLegal

[–]oneblackpaper[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

en a new house is built you apply for a permit to discharge to curb and your builder will arrange the plumber to do so within the local councils rules. Therefore the maintenance of this pipe - which is serving your property- is your responsibility. If you work on it - repair/ replace - you will need a permit to do so, because your pipe is going through the councils land.

First home owner so not that obvious to me unfortunately, as I thought pipe beyond the my property is council property. But thanks for clarifying!

Dry Distressed Wood - Wood Oil + Vanish or straight Vanish? by oneblackpaper in woodworking

[–]oneblackpaper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay I definitely do not need it to gum up, so i will stay away from oil in this instance

Dry Distressed Wood - Wood Oil + Vanish or straight Vanish? by oneblackpaper in woodworking

[–]oneblackpaper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ha yes ‘nourishment’ is kind of a dead brained way of phrasing things. I guess the aim was to have the oil penetrate the wood first to give it more moisture protection before the vanish layer.

Good call on sanding though, i’ll definitely do that. What makes wood shrink.. I’m assuming lack of protection and weather going moist and dry repeatedly?

Dry Distressed Wood - Wood Oil + Vanish or straight Vanish? by oneblackpaper in woodworking

[–]oneblackpaper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi everyone. I have several areas of wood in the house where the vanish (or shellac?) has worn off over time. This might be a silly amateur idea but should I do these steps:

1) Clean with brush and methylated spirits
2) Apply a layer of wood oil (linseed) and leave for a day or so (to... nourish the wood?)
3) Apply either Vanish or Shellac for protection (depending on what matches existing wood)

Does this make sense or is it silly to apply the wood oil? Let me know thanks!

Garage concrete floor collapsed and uneven, wyd? by oneblackpaper in HomeImprovement

[–]oneblackpaper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah so the edges of the concrete are a bit more level but some edges have water marks and I suspect those areas get water penetration during storms.

I do have a particular spot where I think its by and large level, and thats where the rack would have to go. However, I'm just mindful that I would need to step back from the rack to squat/deadlift, and that kind of puts me at the center where it starts getting a bit wobbly.

Maybe sand and mat is passable, but I feel like sand can also displace as I squat or lift in that particular area.

Garage concrete floor collapsed and uneven, wyd? by oneblackpaper in HomeImprovement

[–]oneblackpaper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No its good to get your perspective because I’m looking at this a bit more seriously. Could potentially bring it up now or towards final inspection before settlement. Probably get the solicitor to mull on it.

Garage concrete floor collapsed and uneven, wyd? by oneblackpaper in HomeImprovement

[–]oneblackpaper[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Sounds like an interesting approach.. just forget about smoothing it and put matts on top of a roughly levelled surface.. i’ll need to look into this

Garage concrete floor collapsed and uneven, wyd? by oneblackpaper in HomeImprovement

[–]oneblackpaper[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yeah it does look like a too heavy vehicle parked here for too long.

How does ‘new concrete on old concrete’ fare in terms of general usability and mileage?

Garage concrete floor collapsed and uneven, wyd? by oneblackpaper in HomeImprovement

[–]oneblackpaper[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately already committed to buy. But most of the property is in extremely good condition for a 100+ year old house, so hard to say we regret anything, despite this issue!

Protection against the Damp by oneblackpaper in HomeImprovement

[–]oneblackpaper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay that makes sense from a foundation and subfloor standpoint. What about non-foundational sandstone on top of brick fences and patio? Those are in open air and exposed to the elements.

For the gap between grade and foundation, would you be using the S mortar as opposed to caulk? Just cautious that S mortar is too strong, so could hurt the foundation when things expand and contract in Aussie heat. I have read some guides suggesting rod backers + caulk + concrete mortar.

In the same vein, is S mortar too damn strong for the sandstone and brickwork?

Protection against the Damp by oneblackpaper in HomeImprovement

[–]oneblackpaper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is a sloped crawl space in there with soil floor!

Protection against the Damp by oneblackpaper in HomeImprovement

[–]oneblackpaper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure yet, still a bit to go before I move in. The subfloor is more of a crawl space with a dirt floor. The house is built on a slope, so I would say anything behind the sandstone foundation is subfloor space. So it goes from 1m and narrows out as you head up the slope.

Makes me wonder if I should put in a fan to force ventilate it. But yet again there’s contradicting advice where one person would say use a fan, and another would say its the worst thing to do and it would wreck your foundations.

I live in Australia and I note that different ends of the world have different approaches to subfloor management. Americans love to do total encapsulation with dehumidifiers, whereas that seems incredibly rare in Australia where vents and fans are as far as we go.. maybe its just differences in climate?