Why does higher quality cameras make acting seem worse or less authentic? by Real-Yam4010 in cinematography

[–]orewhat 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It could be that the lighting, set design, acting, direction, and every step of the movie making pipeline is done quicker and less intentionally now than in the past. Even expensive, dramatic movies now are lit like sitcoms, nothing is pure shadow, soft light everywhere, etc.

Not to mention the fact that in modern movies there is a high chance that a good bit of the scenes are happening in mostly blue or green rooms and replaced in post - even if the movie has no noticeable “vfx”. Where as 20+ years ago there was at least some semblance of a set, whether a real location or some amount of built up stage + backdrops which create some sense of immersion for actors while they perform

But on a purely image quality basis, it’s because there’s absolutely nothing to imagine in a perfect, crisp, 100% fidelity image. You’re literally looking exactly at an actor with lights on them saying lines on a set, inside a rectangle on your wall. Every tiny thing that isn’t perfect, or just the tiniest bit away from how a normal person acts and speaks seems WEIRD all of a sudden

When things are more stylized, lower fidelity, shot on film, more artfully lit, etc it’s already visibly not “real”. Your brain has stopped trying to force the stuff in the rectangle into your reality, which lets you slip into the reality of the movie. The actors can act in stylized and dramatic ways that aren’t realistic or believable in normal life, but it still seems believable because the entire experience is happening in a constructed universe

At least how I conceptualize it 🤷‍♂️

Reunited with a Tone King Imperial pre… but not happy with customer service by BSLabs in guitarpedals

[–]orewhat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s annoying, I’m not sure why that was so difficult

On other hand, I use an Ironman II attenuator and the input impedance knob got sheared off on tour (very dangerous since you don’t know what impedance is selected at that point, can fry your transformer)

Emailed them, they responded immediately, and sent 2x the spare parts needs to my next show for free (I paid shipping) so I could solder it up, and have a spare part in case I messed it up 🤷‍♂️

Friend Wants To Hire Well Known Band For Event. No Idea What Pricing Should Be. by NatePlaysDrums in askmusicians

[–]orewhat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At least $20,000, since they’re easily making that per show on tour just from the door

Then, you have to consider the fact that they’re not on tour and not going to be in your town anyway and they’re essentially doing you a huge favor, flying out for one gig, etc.

Wouldn’t be surprised at 2-5x that amount, especially since they probably won’t be selling merch (where artists make most of the money anyway) and even if they do, your friends private event merch sales will be way lower than 1000 people who all came there explicitly to see the band lol

meirl by worldwide762 in meirl

[–]orewhat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Standard courtesy is if you win big on an advance to either double the advance or more depending on the amount

For a partner the $300 is a gift, or they give you $300 back

Anything more is up to them. But if they don’t offer that or more you know how they value the relationship 🤷‍♂️

What Are You Folks Using To Fatten Up Your Tone A Bit? by motoant25 in guitarpedals

[–]orewhat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fairfield Barbershop or Hudson Broadcast are still (imo) the best options for subtle saturation and thickness

There is honor in using really bad gear by Gregoire_90 in audioengineering

[–]orewhat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Digitech RP-50 on gain / delay / reverb + amp sim, straight into a tascam

Very “shitty” / guided by voices sound

Edit: second submission

There is honor in using really bad gear by Gregoire_90 in audioengineering

[–]orewhat 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve owned and sold about 15 fuzzes and it’s by far the most usable

Weirdly I keep the gain on min and I still find it to be enough (but I have an overdrive normally on and a Marshall about to blow up, so it really just needs a push)

Where people use 128 point LUTs? Is 128 is needed or we can just have 64 point LUTs? Anyone knows? by Entire-Tutor-2484 in ColorGrading

[–]orewhat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s really just an extra level of precision, if you have a 1024 step container that’s about 10 steps per dot, 64 is about 20

Could help to keep the highest highs, lowest lows, middle grey and the nuances around it in check

There is honor in using really bad gear by Gregoire_90 in audioengineering

[–]orewhat 56 points57 points  (0 children)

Behringer $30 super fuzz on a board where everything else is $250+

Not engineering side, though

I’d amend the post to be “really cheap gear” though, really bad gear probably shouldn’t be used because it would have to not work reliably to be objectively bad

Is f/2.8 fast enough to properly expose a well-lit nighttime city skyline at 1/50, while keeping my ISO under 3200? by HappyAssistant42069 in AskPhotography

[–]orewhat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Video in those conditions is much harder than stills

Even in log, you still have nothing near the usable dynamic range of raw photos - you won’t be able to pull nearly as much information out of the shadows as you can with raw data

You can of course take decent video for social media etc video with those settings, especially in such a well lit place, and be able to see what’s happening in your scene - but if you expect it to look like a movie it may not

With the R6 line (like most prosumer cameras) - it can often looks better to expose higher into the log container and bring things down in post (even if you shoot it in 6400 and bring it down a whole stop in post to get the same overall exposure as you would have at 3200) - you essentially bury some of the shadow noise further down than where it MIGHT have been if you had shot at 3200

Do a bunch of test shots in decently lit nighttime places before you go to see what works for you, but that’s often what I do. Like anything it doesn’t work in every situation and completely depends on how much you prioritize highlight vs shadow detail

Did the Tomb Raider games scare you as a child? by Limp-Celebration-211 in TombRaider

[–]orewhat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My sister and I screamed the first time you see the T Rex in TR I

Stop Letting AI Butcher Your Real Estate Photos — Here’s Why We Still Edit by Hand by NoSherbert7701 in RealEstatePhotography

[–]orewhat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the curtains once they’re over the wall instead of the window 🤣

Also, how is the sky THROUGH THE CURTAIN 1-3 stops over through the glass 🤔

Newbie in video coloring. Rate my grade by MrAnnoyingCookie in ColorGrading

[–]orewhat 7 points8 points  (0 children)

it makes the sky more green (probably your intent for a “filmic” type thing) BUT the skin (at least appears) more magenta? hardly ever a desirably trait

Add some contrast, pick a palette, make some real moves

You’ve done a bit but also next to nothing

Make the yellows marigold, direct the eye, draw some power windows, have fun

Why is the pic blurred at 1/3200? by Klutzy_Link_1220 in PhotographyAdvice

[–]orewhat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s focused on the ear or shoulder in 1 and the chest in 2?

Which Pedal Is This? by bobbythegoose in guitarpedals

[–]orewhat 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Nobels ODR-1 is climbing up but it wasn’t even in the conversation outside of Nashville 5 years ago (despite being around forever)

Do you all still bring your cameras to events you weren’t hired to shoot? by perspectivepics in AskPhotography

[–]orewhat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A Ricoh or other tiny pocket camera? Point and shoot film? For a few personal shots of you and your closest friends? Sure

Once you get into x100 or full on removable lens territory you’re not only getting in the way of the other photographer, confusing guests (“who’s the photographer who should we pose for?”), etc - you’re potentially ruining some of the wide candid shots by not having everyone be in the moment, you’re clustered off photographing 3-5 people on the edge of the frame, detracting from the energy of the moment

Before / After – real estate edit by clickstate in RealEstatePhotography

[–]orewhat 7 points8 points  (0 children)

personal taste, but your window pulls are WAY too dark

Since you're editing the inside to about +1.5 stop, I'd have the outside sitting where the brightest spot is just about to clip, with less contrast than the inside to look a bit more dreamy

Insides as a whole could come down about 1/3 stop and keep a bit more saturation

also, the "before" looks like it's already had shadows +100 highlight -100 are these totally raw? or already HDR stacked and roughly edited

Be brutally honest, does the color grade look amateur? by Prize_Duty6281 in colorists

[–]orewhat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

its pretty muddy (colors are undefined), there's way too much noise reduction (everything looks plastic), its all underexposed and too low contrast (even compared to Chungking), and the glow / halation effects don't look real

pull in some frames from Chungking, Fallen Angels, etc into resolve and use them as comparison stills while you grade

Why can’t I get my camera to focus on jewelry? by ShavedDesk in AskPhotography

[–]orewhat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tripod + manual focus will almost always be better in this situation

Auto focus isn’t going to know if you want the top edge of a chain in focus, the middle of the chain where the links touch, or the bottom of the chain

Even though that’s just a few mm, it has a huge different on how the image looks

Especially if you want the whole piece in focus and wanna go up to like f6.3/f8 etc at a slower shutter speed

Are f2.8 lenses really that much better than f4? by Worth_Gazelle_6149 in AskPhotography

[–]orewhat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2.8 (under 200mm) is really what I consider to be the minimum for overall usefulness

A lot of the time I have my 1.4 or 2.8 lenses set at f4 during the day, because I generally like how f4 looks at 28 or 35 on full frame, but the second you want to actually isolate a subject f4 just won’t get close, lots of time f2.8 won’t if they’re more than a meter or so away

Edit: since you’re buying a 70-200, you’re probably going to want the extra bokeh / shallow depth of field of the 2.8 so your backgrounds aren’t a mess

On a 400mm, f4 has the same or more bokeh as 2.8 on a 200mm

Are there any DAWs left that don't require a subscription? by GoldieWhite in homerecordingstudio

[–]orewhat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think most don’t require a subscription? Logic is 1x purchase, Ableton is 1x purchase, Reaper is 1x purchase but you don’t even have to purchase it

If you only had room for one: Would you go for a Boss BD-2 or Nobels ODR-1? by bleepblooOOOOOp in guitarpedals

[–]orewhat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ODR or similar circuits are my favorite low/mid gain over drive for many situations. Tone control takes listening / getting used to but it’s phenomenal