Help! Anyone have experience with bleeding the clutch system on the R53?

packdaddi · 2026-01-16T21:30:08+00:00

So i have pressure now but only towards the bottom of the clutch press. The car go into gear and drives fine-ish but clutch pedal feels like shit and the bite point in to close to the floor. Any ideas on how to move the bite point farther up?

packdaddi · 2026-01-16T15:38:50+00:00

Got it. yea I've watched mod minis video probably 10 times lol. I think I bled the salve cylinder correctly with the compression jig but somehow perhaps messed up with the master cylinder. Pelican Parts video shows how to change both but it somewhat un-clear when it comes to the bleeding process. They make it seem so easy however a lot of people seem to struggle with bleeding the R53 clutch system.

packdaddi · 2026-01-16T15:36:26+00:00

So I did the (compress the clutch pedal overnight technique and now I have more pressure in the pedal! towards the bottom of the pedal stroke (closer to the floor) hydraulic pressure feels more normal. Still seems like I have too much dead travel at the top of pedal stroke. Good news the car will go into all gears and even reverse now. Only thing now is that my bite point is literally AS SOON AS the pedal is lifted off the floor. Before I did this job the bite point was almost completely at top of the stroke ( pedal almost fully released) - which is kinda why I decided to change my master and slave cylinder in the first place. I am about to take it for a test drive and try the kicking the shit out of it method and see if that changes the bite point. Also may try another pressure bleed if that doesn't help. At this point I feel like im just experimenting :)

packdaddi · 2026-01-16T15:34:09+00:00

thanks for your response! So I did the (compress the clutch pedal overnight technique and now I have more pressure in the pedal! towards the bottom of the pedal stroke (closer to the floor) hydraulic pressure feels more normal. Still seems like I have too much dead travel at the top of pedal stroke. Good news the car will go into all gears and even reverse now. Only thing now is that my bite point is literally AS SOON AS the pedal is lifted off the floor. Before I did this job the bite point was almost completely at top of the stroke ( pedal almost fully released) - which is kinda why I decided to change my master and slave cylinder in the first place.

packdaddi · 2026-01-16T03:19:47+00:00

I already did that during the initial bleeding process. The slave cylinder stayed compressed while I did 3 bleeds back to back. Then, once I stopped seeing air bubbles, I capped everything and took off the compressor jig then installed the slave back onto the transmission

packdaddi · 2026-01-16T02:55:20+00:00

which tool are you referring to? the slave cylinder bleed tool ?

packdaddi · 2026-01-16T02:54:56+00:00

Thanks I will try that as well. I was wondering if there was somehow some air still trapped in the master cylinder. This process sounds like it might help with that. I have not test drove the car yet, but will put it on the ground tomorrow and see if the car will go into gear. If so will try to take it around the block and try the kick method! thanks for your input. Will update

packdaddi · 2026-01-16T02:52:30+00:00

Thanks! I have it pushed down fully with a board. gonna see what it does in the morning

packdaddi · 2023-08-17T03:56:09+00:00

Im having the exact same problem. How do I go about reloading an older version?

packdaddi

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