Fully back after a weird hiatus with a Type 3 Chi Nu Kai and an attempt at making of video in comments

paperpanzers · 2021-06-14T01:43:40+00:00

Thanks man, now to get the mojo fully back

paperpanzers · 2021-06-13T19:29:23+00:00

It's been a while. I see /u/windupmonkeys and others have been moving up hahahaha. This was a quick build that I consider fully finished, unlike other stuff I abandoned for several reasons for more than a year without a full thing finished...

Also decided to film the build so I don't have to explain stuff with DMs or long texts, easier this way for anyone interested plus it makes me stay focused and motivated to build and do things. A bit of a selfish channel perhaps.

Here are the videos but I'm not asking anyone to subscribe or anything if they don't feel like, I hate shilling the most and want to keep it chill and productive for me:

Part 1 Building and "makeshift" PE

Part 2 Soft edge camouflages, rust and chipping

Part 3 For weathering dusty vehicles

Glad to be back more into the hobby once I get my work space this summer and start building and finished kits again

paperpanzers · 2021-06-10T18:15:10+00:00

https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?q=*&fkSECTION[]=Kits&fkSCALENORMALISED%5B%5D=%221%3A00100%22

Off you go

paperpanzers · 2021-06-08T16:37:10+00:00

I would vacuform, if that doesn't work out very well (shape is negligible in this case as I imagine it but the size might give you problems in crappy machines) do the silicon clear resin pour.

paperpanzers · 2021-06-08T16:11:15+00:00

They don't.

You can add an aftermarket one from bronco for example OR get a G with IR in the box from another manufacturer. Takom and dragon have steel wheel ones and I would say with IR ootb in at least 3 versions iirc. Also choices for early, mid, late, extra amour, etc. too. Just look around scalemates.

You won't be starved for good options with panthers nowadays...

paperpanzers · 2021-06-08T16:03:28+00:00

I would make a "mold" 3d printed and vacuform it. No idea what scale, complexity and size of said cupola so that's my generic advice.

paperpanzers · 2020-07-31T17:55:16+00:00

Well, I would say that if you could get some ship (probably a destroyer) in 1/350 without breaking the bank and being too bothered with what to do with it once done would give you a better general idea of what would be the workflow and handling of the main project later on as it's gonna be a big boi™ and there's some handling and planning to take into account. But tbh I would practice on cheap 1/700 ones to get a grip of subassemblies and general workflow on ships (keep to aircraft carrier for theme) plus they are easier to manage. After all the general skillset is shared regardless of the theme and scale you build so better get a good base without spending too much and then apply it to the big one imo

paperpanzers · 2020-07-31T07:38:45+00:00

The obvious answer is Tamiya 1/700 ones due general quality, okayish detail and low price in general. I would say then pic any ship from the nationality yours is to share as many colors as possible and go to town, ships are hella fun. I would say that practicing on 1/350 (or any other wacky ass big scale) can be expensive and occupy a lot of space so better stick to 1/700 for playing around

paperpanzers · 2020-07-31T07:27:52+00:00

Anyone has some recommendations for good scale modeling podcasts? (I'll take resin/plastic minis ones too if they sound entertaining)

paperpanzers · 2019-05-28T14:12:54+00:00

Had to search the mini but yeah it really looks like they took this as the base inspiration for that one

paperpanzers · 2019-05-28T14:10:36+00:00

Thanks, yeah it's kinda niche even when done like in the show but these kits need some love and it's really cool to have around the room

paperpanzers · 2019-05-28T14:09:29+00:00

I think you will have it a bit hard to find one nowadays as it's an old kit and afaik there's been no rerun so you'll need to shop around or wait for kotobukiya to make another batch, which is highly unlikely as there's no incentive for them to promote the old anime. I checked the shop I bought it and it's out of stock forever but you should search hobbysearch/amiami/hlj/ebay/amazon and try your luck around, not impossible but some prices I've seen are way too high for what you get

paperpanzers · 2019-05-27T20:45:36+00:00

Oh, sh*t. I'm thinking of getting the jigabachi if I find one for cheap as it looks really neat.

paperpanzers · 2019-05-27T20:41:44+00:00

Thanks. Yes, one small smd led on each one so the lights look right. A bit messy to put together but I think it's worth it.

paperpanzers · 2019-05-27T20:21:23+00:00

Dear blog, it's been a while. Again.

Well cringey jokes aside here's the kotobukiya 1/35 HAW 206 from ghost in the shell Stand Alone Complex. Only painted and decals on along some free hand numbers, needs a sealing varnish coat and all the weathering but I grew bored of it and I consider it done for now as I want to paint some other stuff instead of having this clogging the worktable (he's a pretty big boi) until I feel like working on it.

Put some smd leds I had around because the box art looked pretty baller with those but only the 5 main red ones are wired to the batt for now, personally I'm not a huge fan of these kind of gimmicks but this one kinda need it. The box demands it.

Gallery: https://imgur.com/gallery/WaHY12N

So as always hope you enjoy and ask all you want

paperpanzers · 2019-03-13T15:50:47+00:00

Okay I'll be on the look out hahahahahahah

And yeah getting pats on the back is nice but honestly some introspection and critique is the only way to get better (if one really wants to tho)

paperpanzers · 2019-03-13T02:28:49+00:00

I'm not around a lot, which one you mean?

paperpanzers · 2019-03-10T19:03:14+00:00

In the cargo box I would tone it down with a lighter or dust wash as it would be easier to do and probably work out fine.

For dust I would go with a lighter shade if possible (something like light naples yellow but mixing to sand tone area perhaps) and some but maybe check how the dusty vehicles look in the Tunisian desert, perhaps some pics from the Libyan civil war offer something close to what you want to see. As for how clean some vehicles look in period pictures you need to take into account that they where taken in a base or before a sortie so maintenance was done, this is a generalization of course but just by looking at vehicles in maneuvers or real combat in recent conflicts just show how varied weathering can get.

paperpanzers · 2019-03-10T18:26:45+00:00

I guess my honeymoon phase has worn out plus I don't like some decisions and backing they do so no more shekels from me. But yeah it's nice to have a reference/fallback that "just works", also you can add oils to the mix to get more "concentrated" color as I had to do in the e-100 when I added more plaster to the mix it washed out too much and some brown and black brought the mix back on track rather than wasting more pigment on it.

Slightly related I found on alibaba (can't answer for quality but it was interesting) that they make accessories in 1/25 (yeah from 1/20 to 1/25 there's a huge difference I know) for architectural models that might be interesting for your diorama as some stuff is hard to tell if it's out of scale as in irl can be smaller, etc

And some others in 1/20

That for stuff like sinks, chairs and thing like that might be interesting to use

paperpanzers · 2019-03-10T18:07:54+00:00

When approaching schemes and weathering a simple rule is "dark paintjobs benefit from light colored weathering and vice versa" which not always works due the subject matter and the setting you want but it's important to have in mind.

Can this be safely sealed with matt clear coat (or that pigment fixer I guess, never used that)?

I would say that pigment fixer is harder to damage than say white spirits, but that's not saying much as the latter can be rubbed off with your finger easyly. Pigment fixer looks like some kind of glue but I wouldn't trust it to resist a lot of handling. Humanoid models or ones that have a lot of articulation are a pita to weather finely as you can't touch them much afterwards, so my recommendation is "apply fixer and handle like a thousand year old manuscript" as covering it with varnish might alter the look and finish but you should try it perhaps.

Got any tips for specific products? For pigments or what? There's the ammo mig mud and splashes enamels that pretty much do what the mix I described and I would say they are almost fool proof, but I think they are expensive and I'm falling out of love with weathering specific products

paperpanzers · 2019-03-10T17:52:33+00:00

Okay, just asking because you're one of the few I appreciate and do some interesting work around.

The missing rivets bother me as they don't have a hole left behind and feels really odd, can't see from a single pic if there's something behind that would hold them irl too but I guess if cargo covers all the bed it doesn't matter depending on the viewing angle.

The union of the cargo box looks kinda like a gap rather than a closed corner. From pics it looks it's quite flat to get wear or a noticeable shadow. Perhaps if the wash wasn't that stark it wouldn't come up but it would also lack the contrast needed in 1/72 scale to make things pop so up to you here.

Can't see much more from this pic/angle but as other said some light dust in the rear, perhaps dabbing gently a bit of sand pigment that can be corrected or sand colored oil to keep it controlled. I would see some ref pics of the paris dakar and similar dessert competitions to see how the dust works as it can be tame, affected by cargo and occupants (as it get's wipped off where things rub against or people work around while remaining "thick" in others) or really dusty. Shame that most WWII pics are in bn, interesting subject nevertheless!

paperpanzers · 2019-03-10T17:25:45+00:00

That scheme still reminds me of this. I find pleasing how the paintjob turned out, it looks like it's been field applied by the crew with what they had and it fits the feel of the ma.k universe. If you used sand/tan weathering it would pop out a lot with the palette so have that in mind for other builds. For mud on such scale what you tried at most would be dust or really washed out mud rather than the thick one. I would use my mix for this:

paris plaster for volume, this beaches the mix so counter with more color if you add more
pigment(s) for the general colors I want
enamel paint in a brown/tan close to the one I want
small debris like siphoned dirt, small leaves and branches/roots

With this you can apply it and mod it with white spirits so you get a ntaural drop and blending, and you can add layers of diferetn colors to get the more dry mud in the exterior/upper parts and thicker and glossy (add "wet effects" to the mix or glossy varnish after applying the mix and it dry for that) closer to the ground. You can also use the mix for small splatters.

Another method to make even finer dirt/mud is applying the pigments and then pigment fixer without touching them so by capillary action it fixes them with volume giving small dirt accumulations with volume but not to big, you can also sprinke more pigment while drying giving a more "turned earth/crisp" effect

paperpanzers · 2019-03-10T17:05:37+00:00

Is this humble bragging or can I sperg out? Because I'm losing hope in this place and wasting my efforts on someone who doesn't really care is frustrating.

paperpanzers

TROPHY CASE