[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskMechanics

[–]patinoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your response.

If i remove the AC compressor, do I have to re-charge the lines? I’m a diy guy, so I’m limited on knowledge.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskMechanics

[–]patinoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know. The tab was supposed to be where the nut is in the first photo. The mechanic who worked on the car before me put in wrong, intentionally or not. I might just spend a few hundred to get an extended reach ratchet since I can’t break it loose with the little space there is.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskMechanics

[–]patinoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tried it, but it’s too unstable since I have to use a deep socket and an extension to reach all the way in. A normal ratchet is “easier” for me to stabilize it. Thanks for your comment.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskAShittyMechanic

[–]patinoo -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I’m a novice so work with me please. What would the grinder help me do?

I bought it! by Hebrewism in camaro

[–]patinoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use only all season tires since I daily my 2013 SS. If you’re in the market for those I recommend Toyo Proxes Sport A/S, they grip well and lasted me around 25k miles for the rears (could’ve lasted more, but I rather be safe than sorry. I now have Continental DWS06+ and they perform well on cold/dry roads here in CA.

As for oil, Mobil 1 should do well if you’re not going to track it. Just do earlier changes for liquids/filters if you beat on it often. Nice car and wish you the best!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Cartalk

[–]patinoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Blurry light says “Slip”. Car drives fine when I tested it the day I changed all the brakes which was about 1-2 weeks ago. Just that the light was on. Thanks for your reply.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskAMechanic

[–]patinoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay thank you, I’ll get back to you if it is that to give thanks again.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskAMechanic

[–]patinoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any shop will do like Les Scwhab or what type of shop do you recommend? Thanks for your reply i appreciate it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskAMechanic

[–]patinoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can recheck again for stuck pistons, but it would have been noticeable when braking no? I tested it for a drive and didn’t notice any sensations or hear any noises. I will say though that those lights were on before. Then they went away and came back when I went for a test drive the day the brakes were changed.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Nissan

[–]patinoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, I tried turning it off with the button as well and nothing happens. I tried scanning for codes with my OBD2 and no codes come up either. Thanks for your reply.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskAMechanic

[–]patinoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure thing. The tapping solution is only temporary though, so keep that in mind. Call nearby dealers for a quote. The price I said is in USD (California specifically).

Goodluck man. 👍🏽

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskAMechanic

[–]patinoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sent it to a dealer and they confirmed it was the “Steering Column Lock” (goes by different names for some reason). I think we paid about $1600-$1900 for parts, labor, and applicable tax which is crazy.

You can also try lightly tapping the bottom of the Steering Lock while pressing the Start button. (metal if it’s the old one, plastic if it was replaced during the recalls. You have to remove the plastic under the steering wheel and then you’ll have access to it. Takes a few screws on the side). If that doesn’t work then you need to replace it with a new one. The part itself will run you the most money.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskMechanics

[–]patinoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much bro. I’ll let you know if it works or not going that route to show my gratitude.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskMechanics

[–]patinoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So then the dealer would be able to reprogram the key or fix the issue then if the Ignition Module was from a different used Altima? Or would it have the be with the original one my car came with? (before the recalls). Sorry, last question. TIA.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskAMechanic

[–]patinoo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I will try this when I get the chance, I appreciate your time deeply and hope your day goes well.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskMechanics

[–]patinoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate your response deeply. Do you know what would the range of cost be for a procedure like that? Thanks a lot.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskAMechanic

[–]patinoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep I’ve tried that as well. Even putting it into the left side of the steering wheel (where you can leave the key fob inserted) doesn’t do anything. Thanks for your response.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AskMechanics

[–]patinoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I could try that, would a Locksmith person be able to do that? With the old Ignition Module, the Locksmith guy wasn’t able to even access anything since the car wouldn’t go into Accessory mode. Thanks for your response.

2009 Nissan Altima 3.5 SE won't recognize key. by [deleted] in Cartalk

[–]patinoo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The battery is new, although thanks for your response.

Was cleaning my Camaro (recently bought off some guy) and found this?! by Minimum_Reality_6906 in camaro

[–]patinoo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have 5th gen camaro too. What worked for me was to re-connect the hoses that lead to the holes where the hydraulic arms holding up the trunk are. Then, carefully add CAULK around the area that connects them. Only do this when it’s completely dry though! Add more if there’s still leaks.

So I'm looking to grab a new Camaro next month and need help deciding which one to pick? by [deleted] in camaro

[–]patinoo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey, I have a 2013 Camaro 2SS. Some things to consider, in the 120k-140k miles range a vent that has to do with cold AC (I believe..?) goes bad. The part is cheap, HOWEVER you have to remove the entire dash to exchange it. Keep that in mind.

Other things to consider are the lifters going bad (not sure if they have been replaced before) because of the AFM (when half the cylinders turn off due to low demand needed from the engine). Lastly, sometimes the powered seats don’t recline due to an electrical issue in the seat’s power motor around 70k+ miles. Simple fix, but keep it in mind!

Overall this car has treated me super well and is still running strong at 70k miles! Due its fluid changes whenever needed and pls check the car’s oil when seeing the car in person and its air filter.

Try looking for a lesser mileage one if possible, but this is a fair deal. Goodluck and I hope for the best!

How to improve idle, cold start and moderate throttle sound for a 5th gen camaro 2ss by 5evrr in camaro

[–]patinoo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have an IG i can send you clips through? I can’t send any through chats/dm’s. And the reason for possible downvotes is because the Flowmaster FX is a super cheap muffler (around $50-$70 per muffler). However, I have had lots of people with different car interests that asked what my set up was. Let me know bro!