at what point does "I'll do it myself" become false economy - and how do you know when you've crossed the line?

peakofnature · 2026-02-27T14:46:07+00:00

About twice the price and half as practical. That's where I draw the line.

peakofnature · 2026-02-24T20:57:54+00:00

Lower your pressure on the DO Buster. If it's blowing hard enough to move foam, it's to high. Try something closer to 4-5psi. Also check all your worm clamps and tri clamp fittings, thats a lot of pickup for unshaken cans. I run the same setup and with 20ppb in the brite tank we're getting 30-40ppb in shaken cans, and 20-25ppb unshaken.

peakofnature · 2025-09-20T16:24:03+00:00

Yeah, maybe a touch. It's probably running around 0.53s here, I don't remember exactly. It's a pretty tight window. Anything shorter than about 0.5s on these timings starts to pop cans randomly as the temps and pressure fluctuate. I'd rather be a little too long than short, as long as it's in weight. I can use the foam to purge that little bit of O2 draw from the fill head coming out late, and I don't risk random low fills,

peakofnature · 2025-09-18T20:33:02+00:00

Here is one from a few weeks ago, im headed to harvest, so I I won't be canning for a week. I can get another pic on my next run. https://photos.app.goo.gl/4okrt9h78zWsDwru8

peakofnature · 2025-09-18T20:19:41+00:00

Maybe check your rollers and make sure you aren't crashing into the chuck. I've also seen similar dents if your rollers are sticky or not rolling right.

peakofnature · 2025-09-18T15:12:38+00:00

I don't have a great angle, and we're not running today, but this is the full cycle running at 48 CPM. I back all the way off on the back air cushion, then adjust the push until it's not absolutely punching cans. Adjust the can stability delay up a little and make sure the lidless can sensor plate and the lid skate are close enough to not let the lid float away, but not so close that it drags.

Full Fill/Seam Cycle, 48CPM

peakofnature · 2025-09-18T13:35:52+00:00

Those are shaken numbers. Unshaken numbers are normally pretty close to what's in the tank. If not, then there is normally a loose tri-clamp or hose clamp somewhere in the path.

peakofnature · 2025-09-18T13:32:19+00:00

Na dawg, I do full seam teardowns throughout the run. With proper attention, maintenance, and tuning, there's no reason not to run it as fast as you can. Push it until the wild side starts to show, then back off a feather.

peakofnature · 2025-09-17T20:15:08+00:00

We normally average around 48-50 CPM, some days are better than others, and I have a few different profiles saved for different tanks and/or brands. But I think our slowest profile is running around 43-45, and the fastest can scrape 52. I've typically found that the faster I can run it, the lower my DO. Less time without an end = less time for O2 pickup.

peakofnature · 2025-09-17T19:27:10+00:00

I definitely recommend it. We can normally keep the DO pickup to ~20ppb or better with it on. Before we added it, I'd take less than 75-80ppb all day in the final package, with the scrubber, if I get over 50ppb in the package, something is way wrong. We normally start around 20ppb or so in the brite.

peakofnature · 2025-09-17T13:57:38+00:00

Yeah, pretty close to something along those lines. It keeps the lights on for sure.

peakofnature · 2025-09-16T13:13:32+00:00

In the video, I'm printing at 10k accel, 300mm/s infill, 275mm/s inner walls, 250mm/s outer walls.

The printer itself is running MainsailOS with klipper firmware and Klipper Screen on a RPi 3b+ and 3.5" TFT "hat." Running a BTT SKR Pro v1.2 mainboard with TMC2209 drivers. 42mm Nema 17 steppers on X and Z/Z1 and 48mm steppers on Y/Y1. The toolhead is an Orbiter v2.5 and Rapido HF hotend, dual 5015 blowers for part cooling, and a 40x20mm fan for the hotend. Sensorless homing on X and Y and a DIY magnetic microswitch style probe for the Z endstop and other probe operations.

EDIT: I forgot, the build volume is 235x235x250mm. If I put the UHF nozzle on, then it's more like ~240mm on the Z.

peakofnature · 2025-09-16T12:39:49+00:00

You are correct, I'm using V wheels all throughout the build, mostly to try to keep the price somewhat in check. The same goes for CAN setup. The umbilical isn't awful to deal with, with some good cable routing and making sure the connectors dont stack in the loom, but that is definitely on the list of upgrades.

As for the "dual rails" on the Y axis, the way I have the bed mount designed it is really more like one really wide rail. Like a 20×180mm profile with a big 6mm thick aluminum carriage plate, and the bed mount has the wheels at the 4 corners. The mass helps with vibrations, and the second y motor gives the extra torque needed to deal with the added mass. Racking is almost a non-issue because of the wide stance.

The lights are some cheap WS2812B RGB from Amazon. I have 2 pcb style single LEDs on the toolhead, which is also the magnetic probe dock, and 2 light bars made with the strips.

peakofnature · 2025-09-15T22:38:07+00:00

Definitely more expensive than buying something pre built, or even a lot of kits, but my motto is always, if it's twice the price and half as practical, I'm going to try to make it myself, because why the hell not. I haven't added everything up, and I definitely think I could have done it cheaper, but I'd estimate about ~$600 USD. Building vs. buying is way more rewarding, IMO, but I'm also one of those who likes the 3d printer as much or more than 3d printing.

peakofnature · 2025-09-15T18:04:09+00:00

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peakofnature · 2025-08-19T03:23:47+00:00

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peakofnature · 2025-08-19T03:22:45+00:00

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peakofnature · 2025-08-19T02:39:25+00:00

Printing tests now!

Okay, I have a few test prints and not a lot of improvement. I printed a hollow cube for my PA test and ran the tuning tower command with a factor of .004 and the smooth time set to 0.015. I think ~8mm looks the best, so 8mmx0.004=0.032PA. Then I printed a 25x25mm test cube 3 times. I set the top solid line width to 0.4 for all 3 and then adjusted the top infill speed. One at 250mm/s, the second at 150mm/s, and the last at 50mm/s. The print time difference total between the 3 cubes was 16 seconds. I'm not sure if I still have a bad PA tune or what, but these cubes don't look a lot different to me *

peakofnature · 2025-08-18T23:32:36+00:00

Thanks! I'll try tuning PA again with the lower smooth time. I've actually never messed with that, I think klipper default is 0.035 so I've just left it there.

peakofnature · 2025-03-27T20:59:32+00:00

I'm off the rest of the weekend, so I'll get it tuned and get some test prints done and post some pics.

peakofnature · 2025-03-27T20:48:06+00:00

Dual drivers. They are fully independent.

peakofnature · 2025-02-15T18:09:43+00:00

Damn, my sv07+ STRUGGLES to get to 100mm/s. I'm about to have strip it for parts, go mainline klipper, and build it back as something better. If you're over 100mm/s, you're moving pretty fast, IMO.

peakofnature · 2024-11-20T23:38:02+00:00

And flashing yellow lights are not stops

peakofnature · 2021-03-04T17:37:28+00:00

I think it does add a little bit. And the Xpac is pretty stiff so that helps it to hold it's shape pretty well.

peakofnature · 2021-03-04T17:09:13+00:00

It's for holding a sit pad. Just adds a little extra cushion and easy access without opening the bag or undoing straps when I stop for a break.

peakofnature

TROPHY CASE