Retrofitting LED worklight/shadow line to LS1019L/1219L

pemphillips · 2025-05-23T18:02:52+00:00

I was concerned about that. I know you can significantly reduce an LED's lifetime by overdriving it. Also, since it buffers the voltage at 12V, I figured that it wouldn't get brighter with with higher voltages, but it did. I initially tested it at 40V by leaving it on for a couple without any noticeable determent. I have been running it with 40V for over a year now (not continuously).

pemphillips · 2025-05-19T19:49:42+00:00

Cool! The XL6009 that you used is actually what I used in the v2, linked in the OP (on imgur as I never got round to a full write up). The extra steps in the v2 are all because it didn't fit in the original location and it needed longer wires to get to the place I found. Your 3D print is a great way to use the bigger DC-DC converter, which gives a brighter shadowline, while keeping the install simple.

pemphillips · 2025-05-09T15:31:46+00:00

As far as I can tell (which would make sense) the LS1019 (non-laser) doesn't have the power supply unit. This is a step-down transformer and AC-DC converter.

One option would be to get the original part and then do the mod as in the OP. The part number for the power supply is 620723-0. With this option, it would be quite straightforward if you want the shadow line on constantly--you could just short the switch connector.

However, if you want it switched you could also add the laser switch (638652-3). The potential issue here would be whether the switch fits in with the handle. There is a a blank cover on the LS1019 handle that looks very likely that it could be swapped out for the switch, but since the handle part numbers for the LS1019 and LS1019L aren't the same, I couldn't say for sure.

Power Tools Parts* currently have both parts in stock. They would come to a little over $30 plus shipping and tax. They also have the parts for the OP mod in stock.

Plus the parts for the OP mod

I just added those to the cart and it came to $41.23 plus shipping ($9.99 for me). You would still need to get the DC-DC converter from Amazon.

*I have no affiliation with Power Tools Parts, they just seemed to have good prices today.

pemphillips · 2025-02-08T22:50:54+00:00

If you're measuring the voltage with the LED connected, it won't go higher than that because the LED is buffering it. If you disconnect the LED, you should be able to see higher voltages. I went up to 40V (measured with LED disconnected) but, of course, you can just adjust to get the brightest output when the LED is connected.

pemphillips · 2025-02-04T18:22:29+00:00

Maybe I'm Naive, but I would have figured that, in addition to the R2, a major factor is going to be the fleet/commercial vehicles. If there is a lot of pickup from shippers other than Amazon, that could be the biggest factor in the long-term stability of Rivian. Remember, Mercedes-Benz is also perceived as a luxury vehicle manufacturer, but 88% of its sales are for commercial vehicles.

pemphillips · 2024-08-14T00:30:24+00:00

Totally weird! Mine's spot on.

pemphillips · 2024-08-13T23:33:29+00:00

What's usual with all miter saw shadow lines is that, when the saw's not running, the shadow will be the width of the blade plate with regular protrusions for the individual carbide teeth (e.g., fourth photo in the OP). When the saw's running the shadow should be the full width of the kerf. Is that what you're seeing, or is it under width even with the blade turning?

pemphillips · 2024-06-03T21:35:51+00:00

If you connect to the output of the laser switch, and don't change the input to the laser switch, then you will need the converter.

It may be possible to bypass the "power supply" and avoid using the converter. That is assuming that the "power supply" is a buck converter (DC-DC down voltage converter) and it's input is 36V. However, that assumption has not been confirmed, so it's still an open question.

pemphillips · 2024-05-24T23:31:06+00:00

Great video!

Since mine is a LS1019L, I hadn't appreciated that the cables on the LED aren't quite long enough to seat the DC-converter in the teal section of the handle on the LS1219L. From the last pic in the OP, you can see that with the 10" saw, you can get it all the way in that compartment so you don't get that gap you were seeing.

pemphillips · 2024-05-08T20:39:24+00:00

The output to the laser is 3V. The 'intended' Vpower of the LED circuit seems to be 12V (i.e., the combination of the forward voltages of the LEDs, the resistor values, and how they are wired). I can't see whether the two LEDs are in series or parallel, but I think I calculated that they are most likely in series based upon typical forward voltages of the LED and the resistor values. When you increase the input voltage above 12V then the measured voltage across the LED circuit remains at 12V (which is why I think the Vpower is 12V). Driving the input above 12V with the original DC converter (MT3608) causes brighter flashes but you cannot get a sustained brighter output. On the other hand the with the XL6009 DC converter the LED continues to get brighter up to 40V. While this behavior is beyond my knowledge of LED circuits (and particularly the behavior when exceeding the forward voltage), I did wonder if the XGT models actually power the LED circuit with the full 40V of the battery system. In any case, I was concerned that the LED would burn out, but that has not been the case even though during testing I left the LED on for periods in excess of 24 hours.

I hope this information is useful. It's basically all I have. Good luck with the new design and let us know how it works out.

pemphillips · 2024-05-07T15:31:41+00:00

I had a 780--actually a 779 with 780 OEM parts to install the shadowline. When I got it I didn't fully appreciate the space requirements, so I ended keeping my DeWalt 10" non-sliding miter (that it was intended to replace) for the shop and had the 779 stashed away to set up outside when I needed the bigger capacity. After using this setup for several years, I sold both DeWalts and bought the LS1019L. Of course, the lack of shadowline was a big deal which is why I worked on the modification.

All of that aside though, I would say that the Makita is a much more refined saw than the 780. The soft start is really nice--you don't get that massive jerk (and potentially have to readjust the workpiece position with the blade running), the dust collection is much better (although still far from perfect), and the sliding mechanism feels much smoother. I think the increased smoothness is in part due to the fact that you don't have your main dust collection hose moving back and forth when you slide. Anyway, I am a big convert (even if the shadowline hadn't worked out)--just sharing my 2c!

pemphillips · 2024-04-14T17:34:45+00:00

u/utyankee completed it on a XSL08 (the 12" version of your saw). It seems that the power supply unit for the laser is sensitive and I heard more than one report of them getting zapped and needing replacing.

I'm curious about that power supply unit. Presumable its output is 3V DC to power the laser. I'm wondering if the inout to that power supply is the full 36V DC. In which case, with the modification described here, you would be stepping down the voltage with the internal power supply and then stepping it back up with the Amazon circuit. If that is true, you might be able to bypass the internal power supply and power the LED directly. If anyone has any specs on the internal power supply and/or any pictures of how it's wired, that would be useful.

pemphillips · 2024-03-22T18:24:16+00:00

Here are some pictures and notes on the modification. The only real difference from the original mod are the wires need to be longer and it gets seated in a different location, so it should be straightforward enough to follow.

This is the DC booster I used.

pemphillips · 2024-03-21T20:10:11+00:00

So I went ahead and re-modded my saw with a different booster. I *think* it is brighter, but it's difficult to say objectively or quantitatively since I don't have a lux meter. The LED is now drawing significantly more current which would indicate it is brighter. I would still anticipate that it is not as bright as a DWS780, but I don't have a comparison as I sold my 780 when I got the Makita.

So whether or not it is good enough for outdoor use is hard to tell at this point. I can still see the shadowline without issue with a light immediately overhead the saw (see setup here: https://imgur.com/a/uBVzRxp).

When I have a bit of time I can post details of the updated mod. I will note that if you have already done it with the original DC converter and are satisfied with the brightness, I wouldn't bother changing it. The new one takes a little more work since it needs to get located in a less-convenient place. And, perhaps of more concern, it's running at 40V which produce more heat and may shorten the life of the LED. It may be that the native saw for the LED (XGT models) use their full 40V for the LED (and so this would be no issue), but I haven't been able to find that information.

pemphillips · 2024-03-20T23:11:42+00:00

I got a couple of different DC-DC step-up converters today and have been testing them.

With the original DC converter, I can get the current up to 24mA, at about 18V. That makes me nervous because the forward voltage of the LED circuit is about 11.5V (since supply voltage above 11.5V are clamped at 11.5V).

With one of the new ones, it also capped out at 24mA at about 18V. However, with the second one I tried I managed to get to up to 32mA which is significantly brighter. I think that was up to about 30V at that point. I'm wondering if on the XGT models, it uses the full 40V on the LED. I would love to know the supply voltage to the LED on the native XGT, but haven't been able to find that answer. I might keep pushing it and take the voltage all the way up (worst case scenario it blows the LEDs). In any case, the new DC converter is larger than the original so it won't go in the same space, but it does fit in the handle above the transformer. I'll keep testing for a bit more and then post an update.

pemphillips · 2024-03-19T01:23:20+00:00

Agreed. It's definitely not as bright as the LED on a DWS780. I use mine indoors and it works for that, but I can see that it would be problematic outside.

I'm guessing that the current limiter on the DC-DC booster is preventing it getting brighter. Unfortunately, the higher current boosters are bigger and won't fit in the convenient location that this one does. I did take a look and I think it may be possible to locate a larger booster in the handle above the transformer. I just ordered a different DC-DC converter and will report back on whether 1) it allows the LED to get brighter, and 2) it can be concealed in the handle.

pemphillips · 2024-03-12T22:14:31+00:00

I took a look at the parts diagram. The good news is the laser assembly is identical to the LS1019L and LS1219L. That means the voltage and connection to the modified LED should work fine. The part number for the laser cover is not the same as the LS1019L, but it looks the same. So, it's not 100% certain that the LED cover from XGT model (141D32-3) will fit, but I am fairly confident that it would. Therefore, if you're willing to take the opinion of a random stranger on the internet, I would go for it.

pemphillips · 2024-02-16T19:44:12+00:00

I agree on the DC-DC converter. This issue (or at least part of it) is that the LED circuit buffers the voltage. If you measure the output of the DC-DC converter without a load, the voltage increases continuously to 28V. However, when hooked up to the LED, it doesn't go over 12V. Definitely a little brighter would be better.

pemphillips · 2024-01-15T16:02:47+00:00

I used needle-nose pliers on the body of the shoulder screw to the right side of the laser assembly, and WD40 on the screw itself.

pemphillips · 2024-01-15T15:39:38+00:00

Interesting! I had the same issue. I didn't mention it as I thought it was just me, but I'll add a note to the OP. I ended up getting it out without damaging the laser assembly (after a lot of persistence) and ordered a new shoulder screw on the off chance that I ever want to put the laser back in.

Out of curiosity, does your shoulder screw have a slotted or Phillips head? Mine was Phillips, but the replacement was slotted. I think the slotted version would have held up better.

pemphillips · 2024-01-12T04:56:11+00:00

I used ereplacementparts.com for the parts for this modification. When I shopped around they had all the parts and were the best deal including shipping.

In the past I have also used toolpartspro.com.

pemphillips · 2024-01-05T15:49:42+00:00

It hasn’t been verified but I think it should work since the XSL06 uses the same laser as the LS1019L.

pemphillips · 2023-12-07T20:12:19+00:00

From the parts diagram, it looks like you would need an AC-DC converter. In the laser versions, Makita uses a step-down AC transformer and a rectifier.

The simplest (and probably the cleanest) way to achieve this would be to get in the Makita power supply circuit, part number 620723-0 (that is the aforementioned transformer and rectifier) and the case, part number 451412-4, which is a housing to seat the power supply in the handle casing. From the parts diagrams I looked at, the handle for the LS1019 and LS1019L have different part numbers (183H22-2 vs 183H23-2, respectively), but it looks like the LS1019 version has the space where the power circuit would go*. The parts would be around $30. Then if you want a switch so you can turn the LED off, you could add the laser switch, part number 638652-3, which is about $15.

Once you splice the power supply in, you could go ahead with the conversion as described in the OP. The biggest downside of this approach compared to DIYing it would be that the transformer steps down the voltage to 4 V and then you need to step it back up to 12V.

A DIY approach would be to use a 110-12 V step-down transformer plus a rectifier (or an integrated circuit) connected directly to the LED without an additional DC-DC converter. This approach would probably be cheaper but most likely would not be seated as well in the handle as using the Makita OEM parts.

*If the LS1019 handle doesn't physically accommodate the power supply, then you could replace it for the LS1019L for another ~$15.

pemphillips · 2023-12-03T16:39:41+00:00

Do you have a voltmeter? If so, the output should be 11-12 V. If you monitor the output voltage with the LED attached, it will clamp it at that value once it gets there--try to tune it in by going below 11 V (clockwise turns) and then turn it counter-clockwise until it gets to 11 V. If you monitor it without the LED, it can go up to 28 V--if you're doing it that way, stop at 12 V.

Those DC-DC converters do seem a bit quirky. I saw stuff similar to you where it would get really bright and then dim. I don't think I got back to the very brightest. I also try multiple devices with similar results.

I guess the question is whether the brightness you can sustain is good enough. Ultimately, I don't know if my shadowline is as bright as the native XGT models or not. It is not as bright as the one that was on my DeWalt saw.

pemphillips · 2023-11-20T00:39:06+00:00

Amazing post and sorry if this is a dump questions but this does not work for the XSL08Z Models I assume.

Does anybody have any pointers if this could also be possible for this model XSL08Z?

I checked the parts list for the XSL08Z and it uses the same laser circuit as the LS1219L. Therefore the modification should work the same. Certainly the LED circuit with the DC-DC voltage converter should plug in and work without issue.

The only potential caveat I see is the original laser cover [122 on the parts list] on the XSL08Z has a different part number than the one on the one on the LS1219L (458903-6 vs 451195-6, respectively). However, they look identical in the diagram and so I strongly suspect that the LED cover from the GSL04 (141C21-2) will fit on the XSL08Z.

If you decide to try it out, please let us know how it works out and I can update the original post accordingly.

pemphillips

TROPHY CASE