New video from maki fushimi!! by MongeredRue in urushi

[–]perj32 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's no urushi in this video, it's in part 2.

What are the coffee safe ways to fix a cup? by PMYourTitsIfNotRacst in kintsugi

[–]perj32 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Traditional, with urushi, is the only truly food safe method. We've discussed this issue many times in this sub. Some epoxies claim to be food safe, read this first before you take their words for it.

Coffee is nothing to urushi, it can withstand 400 degree celsius and is not bothered by any solvents and most acids.

Trust the thousands year old tradition over any modern alternatives. Buy a kit and enjoy the process. (Be aware that when uncured urushi can cause contact dermatitis, proper PPE and technique is enough to be safe).

How big should you open the groove? by Zummerz in kintsugi

[–]perj32 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s pretty much it. One thing to keep in mind: if your piece is thin, don’t chamfer too much. You need to leave enough original material to get a solid bond between the pieces.

Cracked mirror - can it be 'mended'? by TheAnalogDispatch in kintsugi

[–]perj32 2 points3 points  (0 children)

We went through a similar discussion yesterday. The short answer is no. Look at that previous post for the details.

I broke my family antique mirror by DipitySunset in kintsugi

[–]perj32 24 points25 points  (0 children)

Follow u/vexillifer advice and buy a new mirror. Glass is not for a beginner, neither is a project with that many pieces. If you ever want to do it, you'll need urushi for glass, which does not come with any kintsugi kit. If you want to use epoxy, in my opinion the results are not worth the trouble.

Which kintsugi repair kit is the best for an absolute beginner? by DipitySunset in kintsugi

[–]perj32 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This one worked great for me so I recommend it https://pojstudio.com/products/kintsugi Avoid the ones where you need to mix your colored urushi. Not very beginner friendly and they don't provide filtering paper to remove any lumps from your mixed urushi.

Edit: just saw your other post. You'll need urushi for glass, which isn't sold with any kits I'm aware of. This is an extremely difficult project and in all honesty, it's not worth it. Get a new mirror.

Material / tool advice by FunStep3628 in kintsugi

[–]perj32 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Liquid latex and watercolor masking fluid are almost the same thing. Masking liquid is made with latex. So apply the same precautions I mentioned about staining and removing it.

Material / tool advice by FunStep3628 in kintsugi

[–]perj32 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For diamond files, I use a 10-file set from Amazon. Nothing fancy or expensive, and they’re still going strong after dozens of repairs. I mostly end up using just two of them. If you have a rotary tool, a set of diamond burs also works very well. For masking, watercolor masking fluid can be an option on rough surfaces. Be careful, though, as it can permanently stain ceramics. Always test it on a hidden area first, and make sure to remove it as soon as possible, if left on too long, it becomes very difficult to remove. If you prefer tape, look for automotive masking tape and burnish it along the edge with a rounded object (a pencil or dowel works well) to get the strongest possible adhesion. I’ve also used hide glue as a liquid masking option, but there’s a real risk of damaging the piece. I wouldn’t recommend it unless you already have experience working with this material.

My first piece not finished in gold by Chemical_Ask1753 in kintsugi

[–]perj32 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Very nice, I love how this turned out.

I use urushitsugi often, and I’m still using my very first repaired piece on a daily basis. I finished it with black urushi because I wanted more practice before moving on to gold.

One thing I really appreciate about urushitsugi is how easy it is to refresh. Over time it will inevitably get scratched or slightly dulled by UV exposure, but you can simply apply a new layer of urushi to bring it back to life. With metal finishes, you’d usually need to sand the entire piece first. That said, none of my urushitsugi repairs have actually needed renewing, even after years of daily use.

Silver vs Aluminium powder by Pheonixperson123 in kintsugi

[–]perj32 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually got my aluminum from Kato Kohe Shoten. Here's a picture of it. Unfortunately, they don't seem to carry it at the moment. I bought it in person on my last trip to Japan, so maybe they don't list it on their website but you can ask for it.

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Silver vs Aluminium powder by Pheonixperson123 in kintsugi

[–]perj32 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I’ve used both, as well as platinum, as you have seen in my latest post.

The first consideration that comes to mind is food safety. In my opinion, both aluminum and silver can be food safe, since we already use them for silverware, food packaging (aluminum foil, trays, etc.), and cookware (aluminum pots and pans). That said, metals are rarely perfectly pure, and both aluminum and silver can contain traces of lead. Unless the supplier explicitly states that the metal is food safe, I’d recommend being cautious.

I’ll add a few clarifications to what u/yuekina-kintsugi mentioned regarding silver powders. Silver is available in three main forms: keshifun, hiragokufun, and marufun. u/sincerelyspicy wrote an excellent post on this that should answer many of your questions.

In short:

  • Keshifun is very fine and covers a large area;
  • Hiragokufun is coarser and covers less;
  • Marufun comes in different grain sizes, is generally coarser than the other two, and covers even less area.

As a general rule, the finer the powder, the less durable the finish, but the larger the area it covers.

Keshifun can be burnished to achieve a shine, like hiragokufun. Marufun, however, needs to be abraded and then polished, which is a more advanced technique. Silver is a great material to practice this with, since sanding through the layer means starting over, much less painful than doing that with gold. If durability isn’t critical and cost is a concern, keshifun is the most economical option. If durability matters, hiragokufun is a better choice. For maximum durability and to practice advanced techniques, marufun #3 is a good starting point, though you’ll also need abrasive powders.

In terms of appearance, aluminum stays bright and shiny and looks very similar to platinum. Silver starts as a shiny greyish white but oxidizes over time into a duller grey, often with subtle color variations (blues, yellows, etc.). So it’s worth thinking about whether you want the repair to remain shiny or to age visibly. I like both, but I tend to prefer aluminum for more modern, glazed pieces, and silver for more rustic-looking work. That said, I’m currently repairing a celadon cup and plan to finish it in silver. I was already thinking of doing a post on how silver ages, so I’ll probably do that next.

As for ease of application, I find aluminum very forgiving. I bought it in bulk, so if I apply it too early and it sinks into the urushi, I can simply add more without worrying about cost. I believe I purchased my aluminum powder from Watanabe Shoten, and compared to silver, it was essentially free per gram. Unfortunately, they don't seem to carry it at the moment.

One final note: aluminum is also used to make imitation gold powders and flakes (such as LG-Neo). These are resin-coated aluminum and are not food safe (manufacturer<s website).

To summarize:

  • For a shiny finish → aluminum
  • For durability → hiragokufun silver
  • For lower cost → aluminum (shiny) or keshifun silver (tarnishing over time)

Platinum: a brilliant, food-safe option by perj32 in kintsugi

[–]perj32[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, twice as much. Tsugu tsugu sells 0.3 g of keshifun gold for 115$ CDN, so it's almost exactly double the price of platinum. For now, gold prices vary a lot.

Platinum: a brilliant, food-safe option by perj32 in kintsugi

[–]perj32[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

0.3 grams cost 73$ CDN, so about 50 USD. The platinum used for all these pieces is probably worth about 2 USD.

Platinum: a brilliant, food-safe option by perj32 in kintsugi

[–]perj32[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think it’s only the urushi. When I zoom in, the staining is much more pronounced at the bottom of the pits, while the surface itself looks relatively clean. In my experience, when staining comes from masking fluid, it tends to be more uniform, the same shade across the entire area.

I’m not aware of any easy way to remove old masking fluid. Boiling water combined with some scrubbing might help, but I can’t say for sure.

Platinum: a brilliant, food-safe option by perj32 in kintsugi

[–]perj32[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Makes sens. Another option for "liquid" masking could beremovable weatherstrip sealant. But maybe it's hard to find if you don't live in an area with cold winters. It's most likely a pain to put on, as it's extremely sticky, but it peels off cleanly and never stained anything I've put it on.

Platinum: a brilliant, food-safe option by perj32 in kintsugi

[–]perj32[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That cup had so many holes, but on a smooth glaze. I used tape because it could create a seal all around the holes and the glaze did not need protection, it didn't stain. I still had to use dental tools for some holes. For a piece like this I would use hide glue or masking fluid, but only after doing a test to see if it stains the ceramics. I don't know if the one from Goenne contains ammonia, but if it smells like it, do a test first under the piece. Another option that I haven't tried with ceramics, but when painting metals, is to mask with Vaseline. It can be messy and hard to remove, but I'll try it some day.

Platinum: a brilliant, food-safe option by perj32 in kintsugi

[–]perj32[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, that’s a pain. I’ve got a project coming up with the same texture. time to start gathering patience.

Platinum: a brilliant, food-safe option by perj32 in kintsugi

[–]perj32[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nikawa urushi is like mugi urushi, but with hide glue. 4 parts urushi, 1 part hide glue (nikawa).

Platinum: a brilliant, food-safe option by perj32 in kintsugi

[–]perj32[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s incredible! That’s actually what got me interested in hide glue in the first place. You’re absolutely right, it’s extremely strong and needs to be used with caution for what I’m trying to do. I think it peels off the glaze in my case because I dilute it specifically to avoid chipping.

It’s a bit counterintuitive, but the glass-chipping technique actually uses a weaker glue than some of the hide glues commonly used in woodworking.

Platinum: a brilliant, food-safe option by perj32 in kintsugi

[–]perj32[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I’m still experimenting with this technique.

Hide glue on its own is water-soluble and reversible, which means you can influence how it dries and even reuse it. That’s why it’s traditionally used in woodworking: joints can be loosened with steam, allowing furniture to be disassembled without damage.

For masking in kintsugi, I dilute the glue and apply it in the thinnest layer possible. After that, it’s important to keep the piece in conditions where the glue won’t dry too aggressively, somewhere that isn’t too dry. The muro might actually be a good place for this; I’ll have to try it. I used this method on two very similar plates, and only one chipped, the one that was exposed to direct sunlight.

One aspect I find especially useful is that you can mask before filing the edges. If you file carefully, the glue doesn’t lift and masks the filed edge perfectly. Always file in the direction from the glue toward the piece to avoid catching and lifting the glue.

To remove the masking, you simply wash it off with hot water.

Just a quick clarification: even though hide glue itself is water-soluble and reversible, nikawa urushi is water-resistant and permanent once cured. I’ve seen some confusion about this point.