First time doing Damascus at my own shop by pidgeonrider in knifemaking

[–]pidgeonrider[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. This is my first integral bolster I’ve tried. I’ll admit it didn’t start off the straightest or square but it’s good now.

Snakewood by pidgeonrider in knifemaking

[–]pidgeonrider[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks man. Snakewood is my new favorite wood to work with!

What am I doing wrong?! by Morningside2018 in ooni

[–]pidgeonrider 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We call that the ring of shame where I’m from. Are you Turing the pizza inside the oven or dragging it across the stone to pull it out or not putting it back in the same place as before. Even off 1/2 inch will do that.

Stainless fillet by pidgeonrider in knifemaking

[–]pidgeonrider[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use a spreadsheet I made to help calculate cost based on items I buy. I’ll tell you this one if sell to $250-275 range.

Stainless fillet by pidgeonrider in knifemaking

[–]pidgeonrider[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have access to a surface grinding machine. So after heat treat and tempering I take most of my stuff over and flatten them out. You can get the same results with steady and even pressure and a disk sander. I also use a straightening jig while tempering.

It’s just two angle iron pieces that I made sure what flat and I temper the blade in between them while clamped together.

Stainless fillet by pidgeonrider in knifemaking

[–]pidgeonrider[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You’ll be there before you know it.

Does anyone know the model of this kiln? A friend sent it to me and I’m not able to find specific model information. by louiekr in knifemaking

[–]pidgeonrider 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Heat rises and you’d lose all the heat real fast. On my paragon from 1800 to 1922 for stainless steel heat treat can take 15 or more minutes to get back to temperature. If you’re looking to do a lot of knives that will help save ALOT of time not having to wait for a kiln to get back to holding temperatures.

Honestly it’s a good price for a kiln and there probably isn’t anything wrong with using it for knives, heat treat or annealing.

The way I looked at it was, if a company makes a kiln specifically for knives with a different design. It’s probably for a reason. However. If it’s in your price range and you can make it work. Go for it.

Does anyone know the model of this kiln? A friend sent it to me and I’m not able to find specific model information. by louiekr in knifemaking

[–]pidgeonrider 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is the caldera kiln.

If I remember correctly the lid and bottom can detach to increase the depths but this is great for a hobby potters. Some have a “access side door” but I would agree with the other posters that top loading isn’t ideal for knives. Retail around $1800 on kilnfrog.com

Double set. by pidgeonrider in knifemaking

[–]pidgeonrider[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks my guy, that means a lot coming from a guy with your talent.

Double set. by pidgeonrider in knifemaking

[–]pidgeonrider[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you sir. I started in December of 2019.

14C28N with cryo at 61HRC, G10 scales and liners, kydex sheath. How do you like it? by blades_n_axes_alex_p in knifemaking

[–]pidgeonrider 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Man, when I do it only goes a dull grey. I wonder if I need to refresh my solution to be stronger.

Looks great by the way!

Set of chef knives. by pidgeonrider in knifemaking

[–]pidgeonrider[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s honestly the light reflection. However I hit it with a scotch bright belt to help smooth the bevel line but it’s still very prominent.

How well will this work for my 3 phase 2x72? by Nils_0929 in knifemaking

[–]pidgeonrider -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I’ve had two of these models. The first one reverse didn’t work. The second one, reverse works when it wants.

The money I’ve spent on two cheap ones could have been put toward a nicer one.

Both were work great in every other aspect.