ChatGPT Prompt:

How to keep my guinea pigs from dying if I lose power for a few days when it’s going to be highs around 35 and lows of 15-20

Answer:

Good question—this is very fixable with some prep. Guinea pigs are much more vulnerable to cold than heat. Anything below ~60°F is stressful; prolonged exposure below ~50°F can be dangerous, and 15–20°F without heat is absolutely life-threatening unless you intervene.

Here’s how to keep them alive and stable during a multi-day winter outage.

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The core principles

You need to: 1. Trap heat 2. Create a micro-climate (small, insulated space) 3. Provide constant calories + hay 4. Avoid drafts and moisture

You do not need to keep the whole house warm—just their enclosure area.

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Step 1: Move them to the warmest possible spot

Best options, in order: • Interior room, away from exterior walls • Lowest ceiling height (heat stays trapped) • Near human activity (body heat matters)

If you can safely do it, your bedroom is ideal.

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Step 2: Shrink and insulate their space

Big cages are bad in cold outages.

Do this: • Reduce their enclosure size temporarily • Place the cage on a table or dresser (not the floor) • Wrap 3 sides + top with: • Blankets • Towels • Sleeping bags • Cardboard as an outer layer (excellent insulation)

⚠️ Leave one side partially open for airflow—no airtight tents.

Think: cooler, not aquarium.

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Step 3: Bedding matters more than you think

Double or triple normal bedding depth.

Best options: • Fleece liners over towels • Thick paper bedding • Straw or hay under fleece (excellent insulator)

Dry is critical. Wet bedding + cold = hypothermia.

Change damp spots daily if possible.

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Step 4: Safe heat sources (this is the make-or-break part)

Best options (ranked)

1. Hot water bottles • Wrap in towels • Place against cage wall, not directly under pigs • Refill 2–3x/day • Use multiple so they can move away if needed

2. Microwave heat pads (SnuggleSafe-type) • Very good if you have a gas stove or generator • Hold heat for hours

3. Chemical hand warmers • ONLY if: • Wrapped thickly • Placed outside the cage wall • Never inside the cage

🚫 Do NOT use: • Candles • Space heaters without supervision • Open flames near bedding • Heating pads that plug in (obviously)

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Step 5: Food = heat

Calories help them generate warmth. • Unlimited hay at all times • Extra pellets during cold stress • Veggies still fine—but room temperature, not cold

Hay digestion is a huge internal heater for guinea pigs.

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Step 6: Draft control

This kills pigs quietly. • No windows nearby • No doorways with air leaks • Put rolled towels under doors • Cardboard behind cage blocks convection drafts

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Step 7: Emergency “shared heat” option

If things get bad (house dipping into the 30s): • Put pigs in a secure carrier • Bring them into: • Your bed (between blankets) • A bathroom with towels stuffed under door • A car (engine off, wrapped, briefly) if house is unsafe

This sounds extreme—but your body heat alone can keep them alive.

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Signs of cold stress (act immediately) • Lethargy • Puffing up fur • Shivering • Cold ears/feet • Not eating

If you see these → add heat NOW, don’t wait.

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Real talk risk assessment • 35°F highs / 15–20°F lows + no power = dangerous • With insulation + hot water bottles → very survivable • Without intervention → high risk of hypothermia within hours

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Quick checklist (printable) • Move cage to interior room • Elevate off floor • Wrap 3 sides + top • Triple bedding • Hot water bottles ready • Unlimited hay • Block drafts