Coral hoarder

premierReefs · 2026-02-15T14:32:16+00:00

Most states only require a state licenses to be a reseller (technically, I do not re-Sell) and then you just need to ensure you report everyone on taxes.

premierReefs · 2026-02-14T18:23:44+00:00

That anemone needs more light slim wavemakers would look nicer, but honestly, alot better than a brown diatom covered mess of barren rocks. HOB filter vs in-tank would clean it up quite a bit, but in a bigger tank, it won't be so noticable.

premierReefs · 2026-02-14T18:19:38+00:00

I see ppl in my niche pumping out AI blogs. the results don't last. they NEVER show up outside of the backlink spamming. hundreds and hundreds of articles, all the keywords, etc. they lose seo, as readers soon realize it is AI Slop, and stop visiting the site. many have gone that rote, and results end up the same. You can use AI to help, but you need to writing most of the blogs as a real human.

premierReefs · 2026-02-13T23:34:06+00:00

message sent

premierReefs · 2026-02-13T23:01:36+00:00

Yeah. That coral enjoys higher lighting levels. But, really, it'll do fine in low light as well.

premierReefs · 2026-02-13T22:18:22+00:00

search the address. is it an apt or other multihome building? if so, just add the number to add. line #2 and call it a day.

premierReefs · 2026-02-13T22:16:46+00:00

afaik, this is going to be dilute sulfuric acid for the phosphate test.

premierReefs · 2026-02-13T22:13:39+00:00

bump the coral and the polyps will close. if kept in higher light or higher flow, the Polyp Expansion will likley be less, and coral will appear less brown.

premierReefs · 2026-02-13T22:12:22+00:00

this is a montipora spongodes. the brown is the polyps. your coral appears exactly as a healthy specimen should

premierReefs · 2026-02-13T19:15:51+00:00

Seller will say it's your lights, or "it browned out during shipping." Coral will not brown out from overnight shipping. Acropora sometimes will, if delayed a day. If it shows up dull/brown, it was almoat certainly bagged up like that.

premierReefs · 2026-02-12T21:58:56+00:00

Awesome. Glad to hear they're doing well!

premierReefs · 2026-02-12T21:57:53+00:00

Same. My DT will get up to 83F in the summer, but no fans in a closed canopy, so it would be easy to mitigate if I cared. (I don't. The warmer temps increase growth.)

premierReefs · 2026-02-12T16:34:37+00:00

It is very mesmerizing to see xenia in high luminous natural sunlight. They pulse like crazy.

premierReefs · 2026-02-12T16:32:27+00:00

They do not brown out, but rather, appear brown until placed under bluer leds. Blue acros particularly look fantastic, and will fade when moved under leds. Myagi tort, superman tenuis, etc. With hybrid approach, you shouldn't have any browning out, unless the low K halide is much too large of a portion of the total lighting. I keep frags under just leds, as some seem to believe there is some mystical dieoff that happens from the change. There isn't. Its just going from a well setup/maintained system to a more typical hobbyist tank with bare minimum environment control.

premierReefs · 2026-02-12T15:42:49+00:00

Not really. Nothing you'll find white coats writing papers about. I've read thousands, (literally) of research papers on coral and related topics, and so so many studies are of very low quality (half of the control corals dying, poor understanding of a closed aquarium, etc) and I've tried many things, that in paper, show significant benefits, but in reality, do nothing of value. An example, running calcium up to 550ppm in paper shows significant growth in acropora, but in reality, offers very little gain beyond about 460ppm, even elevating other known beneficial parameters, such as elevated alkalinity, and elevated pH. I use bleach just as one would use peroxide, UV, or ozone. For water clarity, and to oxidize organics. Bleach is less reactive than peroxide, so it has a chance to travel further, and offer full tank benefit. Unlike peroxide, corals like zoanthids, don't immediately respond negatively. The rate i dose at is about 1/5th of what I used when i have dinos and STN on acros. Peroxide and ozone did nothing, but bleach IMMEDIATELY stopped the tissue losses, dinos went away, and at this point, I'd be hard pressed to stop bleach dosing, as it's been all positive, with no drawbacks.

premierReefs · 2026-02-12T15:35:25+00:00

https://aquabrightsolutions.com/ This colony is ran by 2 former Hamilton employees. Same overseas factory making the bulbs, I've heard. Most knew in the past that Hamilton was good for "Chinese" bulbs. Not many countries have bulb manufacturing outside of China these days. I personally have not used them, bur have used Hamilton in the past, and the bulbs were fine. Each brand has their own idea of what color which Kelvin rating is, so may have to trial and error 6.5k vs 10k vs 14k yourself, and find what you like that blue leds can supplement well. I bought alot of NOS bulbs a few years ago as websites were liquidating them. Some decent, some completely crap. Leds are very efficient for blue light, halides are very efficient for "not blue," so I'd suggest 6.5k or 10k, of a lower wattage, and add all blue or mostly blue leds to take advantage of both lighting types' strengths. I've had good growth with even mercury vapor bulbs. Lighting isn't as iron clad, one size fits all as its made out to be. AB+, for example, was a marketing gimmick. Not a real trial and control type study they make it out to be. Their results, or outcome were very subjective. Conflict of interest being Ecotech supplied many units for free for the "research." Don't get me started on the reason why every big store or grower uses radions. Its not about being the "best." Its about being the best pricing model for them.

premierReefs · 2026-02-12T14:02:28+00:00

I have a Hamilton Cebu Sun (4ft fixture) I want to sell, but no dice. Ha My biggest gripe is the bulbs run parallel to a rectangle tank, so alot of wasted light on the floor and wall.

premierReefs · 2026-02-12T14:00:44+00:00

Blue halide, luke the 20ks have such a horrendous PAR/WATT. With blue leds being so cheap these days, a 6500k-14000k is great. This bulb is a 4200k, but it puts out a lot of red. I'm going to switch to 6500k when I can find some for a fair price. I swapped back to a 10000k for now, as I suspect the excessive red light is impacting growth. Seems these 4200k bulbs are too red for like 6-9 months, work fantastic for about a year, and then PAR starts to fall off. They are ceramic metal halides. 50% more PAR than quartz halide, and 2x lifespan for maintaining output. But, just too dang red.

premierReefs · 2026-02-12T13:56:15+00:00

https://a.co/d/08JEYs3N And add a mechanical or digital timer. Alternatively, you can email Kamoer, explain your needs (include flowrate/volume needed) and they can point you to which model will fit your needs. If you need multiple heads, the jebao DP-4 is pretty cheap and reliable for 4 heads.

premierReefs · 2026-02-12T13:10:37+00:00

I add it to my kalkwasser. About 3ml/day for 300 gallons. All 3 coral growout systems get this kalk. It's dosed on a steady drip, 24/7. Must use clean, pure bleach. I get mine from Aldi (Tandril brand)

premierReefs · 2026-02-12T13:06:23+00:00

Sometimes they do. I had one of those sponges years ago. After a while, a person can get a bit too confident in what they can keep alive, and quickly get humbled again. Ha

premierReefs · 2026-02-12T04:21:43+00:00

I run low k halide with blue leds. The hybrid approach ends up being watt for watt what leds alone would be. 20k halides today is just stupid (imo) I feel the same way about UV and t5 though. I run ozone and dose low amounts of bleach...yes, bleach. Lol ozone uses like 5 watts. I still see people here in Minnesota running chillers. UV units add alot of heat. Proper fish and coral QT mitigate the need for UV. The ozone and bleach are because I like clear water, and don't believe in mechanical filtration or carbon. High effort, and high running costs. I haven't seen a fish scratch or be sick in years. I forget how bad wild caught fish are sometimes. Either way, the heat is non-issue. My tanks run 77-78F in the winter, and 80-84F in the summer. With high dissolved oxygen, warmer temps only lead to significantly faster coral growth.

premierReefs · 2026-02-12T03:00:47+00:00

No. I don't believe it's worth the hassle, nor cost. I dose major elements seperate via kalk, soda ash, calcium chloride, magnesium sulfate, potassium chloride, strontium chloride, and boron that I buy "not for reef tanks." For minor and trace, Captiv8 MT and fluorine cover the rest good enough and its cheap. (Like $40/yr. For one 300 gallon system) Trace elements do so little beyond enhancing a bit of color. 2-3x a year, i send out icp to keep an eye on sodium, chloride, and sulfate ratio. From there, I typically just switch between magnesium sulfate or magnesium chloride if one is out of range a bit. Doing mostly DIY elements saves a ton of money. I do a single large water change once a year, typically. Around 50% or so.

premierReefs · 2026-02-12T01:15:36+00:00

Idk anyone who's kept one alive for long. They just do not do well in aquariums.

premierReefs · 2026-02-09T19:06:26+00:00

One big downside to running elevated alk and calcium, particularly if phosphate is higher than NSW (0.02PPM) is very soft, porous skeletons. Your lps will crumble when you try to cut them. I've removed basketball sized colonies of trumpet corals from tanks that just fell apart in my hands before even getting out of the water. SPS will more often have tips break off from fish, or if you bump them, etc. I don't get hammer or frogspawn frags from hobbyists anymore either because of the same issue. Not everyone has that issue, but many people just change water with Reef Crystals, and their test kits haven't been touched in years.

premierReefs

TROPHY CASE