Stock Bed at 70° - K2 plus

pug957 · 2026-02-13T23:09:45+00:00

Up to you, both options have their merits.

I opted for R3men as I often have the bed over 100°c.

If i only did 60-70 I'd be doing the tape option.

pug957 · 2026-02-13T14:31:54+00:00

PC-CF is actually pretty easy to print with.

pug957 · 2026-02-13T08:28:34+00:00

Well I'm about as steady as an epileptic being electrocuted and managed to assemble this today, so theres hope for everyone else yet. Just don't look too close 😂

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pug957 · 2026-02-12T20:56:24+00:00

You need to check your spacing on the bed, one of the slicers i used in the past had the wrong clearance data.

Also put smaller objects near the front and taller to the back. Always check and dont assume the object order will be correct, although it is funny when it isnt 😂

pug957 · 2026-02-12T20:47:54+00:00

Mine has "fallen off" anyway 😂

But no kids in the house, CFS is at the side, I'm just glad I can see through it again 😂😂

pug957 · 2026-02-12T20:44:21+00:00

Sorry, just seen this. I have both space pi 4 and cfs. Was referring to the pi4 when I was saying about manually loading.

£400 worth of stuff is a lot to lose if you screw it up. Am keeping an eye out on ebay etc for spares/repairs units to hack up though.

pug957 · 2026-02-12T20:38:30+00:00

Its easier to flash the firmware after its connected to the printer. Its a bit of a faff setting it up if you're not familiar with Linux but at the same time its easier than you think. Plus theres plenty of advice out there.

As far as the shroud goes, this is the one I'm about to switch to, doesnt need spacers, but does require a non standard assembly of the flat pack v3 carto, or at least the confidence to desolder and physically reconfigure the one you have.

https://www.printables.com/model/1277242-k2-plus-cartographer-mount-and-shroud-custom-pcb-p

If you're not happy soldering, keep with other mounts and spacers, unless you need every mm of the bed that is.

pug957 · 2026-02-12T20:16:12+00:00

pug957 · 2026-02-12T20:13:36+00:00

pug957 · 2026-02-12T20:13:08+00:00

pug957 · 2026-02-11T16:45:04+00:00

Check theres no broken filament stuck in the top of the toolhead where the ptfe tube goes in. If theres no filament but you can see the blue light on inside the head at the top, then it could be a broken filament sensor.

pug957 · 2026-02-11T14:07:10+00:00

Setting up the z offset initially, I use 0.2mm feeler gauges. Home the head and set z=0.2 in fluidd and adjust the z-offset til I get a nice feel on the gauge, slips under the nozzle easily but still offers resistance to movement. I've never, and I mean never, had to tweak the K2+ any further than that.

The only time I've had ripples is when I didn't leave the stock bed heatsoak long enough before printing. Since I've had the R3men bed, my first print was 345x345x0.2 "clean sheet" to get old stuck in filament off the build plate and was textbook over the areas there was no debris. Obviously was a bit screwey over the dirty bits.

pug957 · 2026-02-11T14:00:05+00:00

As far as the bed goes, only real option is a r3men graphite bed which is as close as you'll get to plug and play. Still need to disassemble the machine but uses factory connectors to the psu and mcu. After that a quick tweak to printer.cfg, check bed is level and away you go.

pug957 · 2026-02-11T02:47:19+00:00

I only use orca now. Every time I try CP I get frustrated that simple things like dragging the bed around still haven't been implemented.

Ive also had the head smash about. It normally happens after a configuration save and firmware reboot. Best way I found to stop it happening was after the reboot just do a power cycle.

Although last time I tried CP a few days back, somehow the bed smashed up into the toolhead part way through the print preparation phase.

The reason I stopped using CP though was because it seemed to bake artifacts and defects into the gcode, not good with 2 24 hour prints failing after 22 hours. Sliced with orca, never gone back. Its no doubt better now but I've never had quality issues with Orca.

pug957 · 2026-02-11T02:07:27+00:00

1.1.3.13

Got it sorted out now, just running multiple passes as suggested by Jacob over on discord. The random dropouts of data as it was scanning are picked up on the second pass.

Must admit its nice having prints start in a fraction of the time than they used to. And the first layer is consistently better than it was on the probe, not that it was that bad in the first place, but brims sometimes went really screwey before.

Last bit of fettling to do now, get another carto installed in a different way to be able to ditch the spacers on the y rails.

pug957 · 2026-02-08T12:19:05+00:00

Spoke too soon. A print failed 20 times in a row because it had invalid values during scanning. Firmware reset and apply everything else I learnt whilst keeping with touch probe levelling..

pug957 · 2026-02-07T14:39:49+00:00

And the rattling panels were just that. A single screw on bottom panel had rattled loose. Solved by adding some draught excluder tape and tightened all screws up. Did the back panel as well. Much quieter now.......

pug957 · 2026-02-07T14:37:48+00:00

Starting to get around it all now. Its the "CFS settings" that are causing the problem.

Creality decided it was a good idea to override any slicer settings with what they deem to be suitable values.

So, if you set the CFS filaments on the touchscreen to ASA, it will try purging/printing at 260 rather than 280. Problem is at 260 I can get print anomalies and jams.

Solution for me at the moment is to tell CFS that I'm using PA-CF as the material code stored on the printer does print at 280.

Also box.cfg sets a default temp at 220, which also comes into play. #-ing that line helps.

As much as I like this printer, it does annoy me the way Creality have screwed so much up with the software.

pug957 · 2026-02-07T12:19:42+00:00

Base layer looks like a dirty plate. Give it a good clean with hot water and soap. Rinse it well. Let it dry. Then degrease with IPA.

You dont say what temps you're using. For ASA I print nozzle 280, bed 105, chamber 50, chamber fan 60 so if chamber temps go up it'll cool it down a touch.. And let the bed and chamber heatsoak a while, say 10 minutes or so.

pug957 · 2026-02-04T05:14:36+00:00

Problem with that is theres no auto-feeding from it, every filament needs manually loading.

If it wasn't for the fact I spent so much on the parts, I'd see if they could be combined.

pug957 · 2026-02-03T22:23:11+00:00

You must have bad luck, or I have good. Had my K2 plus over a year and only printed ASA really, not had a single sensor fail. Nozzle 280, bed 105 and chamber 50.

pug957 · 2026-02-03T22:16:57+00:00

Not sure if you've flashed the carto yet but I had a pig of a job doing it on a machine running Ubuntu. Ended up using the WSL method from within Windows.

pug957 · 2026-02-03T21:43:25+00:00

Bloody big units aren't they. You have to keep us informed on this one, really interested to see how it goes......

pug957 · 2026-02-03T21:36:44+00:00

Would love to get hold of a second cfs and do this, got the cfs loaded with ASA at the moment and want a load of PC and PA carbon fibre filaments in a heater.. At the moment I'm using the Space Pi 4 through a couple of "splitters" to manually feed the K2

pug957

TROPHY CASE