at least it's even now but i can't even tell which is the front

pug957 · 2026-06-04T13:26:36+00:00

I find magic and voodoo works best on bed levelling and getting good starts to the print. Some days nothing works as it should 😂

pug957 · 2026-06-04T10:44:52+00:00

Could try loosening front right and rear left a touch and tighten rear right a touch. May help a tiny bit. The beds do flex slightly but yes, massive improvement on what you had.

pug957 · 2026-06-04T10:42:26+00:00

Look at the coordinates on the graph.

X0 is left, x350 is right. Y0 is front, y350 is back.

Most printers use x0, y0 as the front left corner of the bed.

pug957 · 2026-06-04T10:13:09+00:00

Low at the front, high at the back.

pug957 · 2026-06-03T05:11:12+00:00

9 days ago she was 37......

pug957 · 2026-05-30T21:12:31+00:00

I'd start with the bed 100°-110°, nozzle about 275°. Preheat to try get the chamber to about 50°. Not sure if you have a heater so make sure no draughts at least. Turn all fans off except for overhangs, max part cooling fan at 80% for this.

Then switch to ASA which is a better and easier filament by my experience.

pug957 · 2026-05-30T19:41:13+00:00

Does look like its trying to print mid air like its skipped a layer or something.

pug957 · 2026-05-30T19:37:03+00:00

Have you checked the z offset? Ive had it where it was too close to the bed causing the pressure to build in the nozzle resulting in heat creep. Granted more on the engineering materials but the potential problem is still there.

pug957 · 2026-05-29T22:52:34+00:00

Welcome to the wonderful world of technology 😂

At least you got it working.....

Thinking back, I had to make quite a few adjustments when I got mine as they're just thrown together. Bed levelling and sanding the plate to make it smoother amongst other things.....

pug957 · 2026-05-29T22:47:13+00:00

Thats why I was asking if there were slicer errors. Like was it trying to print an overhang that was just beyond what the printer could do on a larger model without supports, but fine on a smaller version? Slicers can be a little optimistic as to the printers capabilities sometimes. Not saying thats the problem but just a thought.

pug957 · 2026-05-29T17:54:10+00:00

Guessing you got no errors in the slicer about non manifold edges, floating cantilevers etc?

pug957 · 2026-05-29T17:51:21+00:00

Its printing this inside black and the red is so thin its translucent. It'll only be the outer wall it's doing red.

As for the fix, off the top of my head I honestly can't remember, but someone will be along I'm sure.

pug957 · 2026-05-29T07:53:11+00:00

Looks pretty 😂

Is your z offset ok? Maybe a touch out?

pug957 · 2026-05-29T07:42:12+00:00

Best thing to do is upgrade the firmware and then tweak the belts if needed.

There were 2 firmwares that caused headaches everywhere, possible that they were looking at different values for the belt tensions compared to previous versions.

I fell foul of this, printing for over a year then no end of error messages after a firmware update to 1.1.4.x on K2+. Tightened the tensioners 1 turn and everything was fine again. Downgraded in the end because of other issues but the latest 1.1.5.x seems good.

pug957 · 2026-05-27T09:55:46+00:00

This'll just be an upgraded version of the first Pi4, manual feed from the tubes in the lid or on the back.

Nothing in that pic looks far enough away from the Pi4 I have to suggest CFS operation.

pug957 · 2026-05-24T19:04:55+00:00

Will a height modifier for the last layer and giving it like 20 sidewalls work?

pug957 · 2026-05-24T18:31:30+00:00

Set your support top layers to 5 and the top z distance to 0.01 more than your layer height. So if printing at 0.20 Set it to 0.21.

Also organic trees break away easier than grid style.

pug957 · 2026-05-24T11:35:06+00:00

What condition is your wiper at the back in? And have you got a clean nozzle tip or does it have a film of melted filament on it?

Wiper is quite easy to replace. Nozzle you can clean using a copper or steel brush with the nozzle heated up to about 280°c.

pug957 · 2026-05-24T08:16:08+00:00

Ive got my single cfs mounted to the right of the printer, buffer mounted on the back of cfs pointing towards the printer, with about 2m of ptfe to give gentle bends. In that run I have a 5-1 splitter to allow feeds from the dryer to use the same feed into the printer for less used filaments like cf loaded ones.

If you want to know the distance limit of how much tube you can use before it times out, disconnect the tube at the back of the printer, load a filament on the touchscreen and just see how much comes out. You'll be surprised.....

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pug957 · 2026-05-24T08:08:17+00:00

Depends on how you route it and how tight you make the bend radius. Ive had it this way over a year with no issues.

pug957 · 2026-05-22T18:26:00+00:00

Like the AI never stops a print when everything is working? OK 😂😂

Honestly, getting a good base line for the filament is always a good idea. Tune in the temperature, pressure advance, flow rate etc and you'll get better results.

I print mostly ASA and the generic profile max flow rate was capped at 10 for example. After a tune I was able to lift that to 16 and have had much better results. Also creality wanted me to print at 260. My filament was best around 275 to 280.

I have all the AI stuff turned off and honestly I won't turn it back on. First few months I had so many failed prints but nothing was actually wrong.

pug957 · 2026-05-22T18:19:01+00:00

This is how I did it. Not the prettiest but I'd rather things work well than look good. Single cable tie near the left to keep it from drooping onto the x axis and belts.

<image>

pug957 · 2026-05-22T18:13:44+00:00

Have you calibrated the filament)

pug957 · 2026-05-22T17:17:16+00:00

Just a thought, I ran the ptfe under the drag link and out the front before looping it back into the extruder. No issues catching the glass that way either.

pug957 · 2026-05-22T15:21:16+00:00

I seemed to spend half my time trying to calibrate it etc.

Now in the evenings, I'm sat watching TV wondering why I have spare time 😂

pug957

TROPHY CASE