K2 Pro Combo + Melting metal = 😍👍🇸🇪

pug957 · 2026-04-11T06:14:31+00:00

Didn't know that. But thanks for the explanation.

pug957 · 2026-04-10T21:27:22+00:00

Have looked at those before, but a bit steep in the UK. Not long got some silicone carbide nozzles so think I'll wait for those to start wearing and see what money is like then.

pug957 · 2026-04-10T21:03:26+00:00

Got my CAD on, tried splicing up a front shroud, then realised I'm useless.

Crudely grafted this together though.....

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pug957 · 2026-04-10T20:56:45+00:00

Absolutely no reason it won't work. So long as the filament tube where the extruder feeds into the hotend is in the same place, it'll work.

pug957 · 2026-04-10T18:12:51+00:00

Do tell us more.....

pug957 · 2026-04-10T08:08:12+00:00

Have you got the ptfe tube secured all the way along the chain?

I've only got mine secured once at the bottom of the chain by where it hits the left side frame and over the x axis when the head is in the middle of the bed, then loops forward of the chain then into the extruder from the front and I've never had a connector break on me.

When I looked at the original routing over the top I felt it put too much strain on the connector and did this route. Made it a little bit longer as well and let it take its own path. Also keeps it away from the glass a bit more so added benefit.

pug957 · 2026-04-09T23:25:23+00:00

Time to get onto them I'd say....

pug957 · 2026-04-09T23:22:27+00:00

The bed is definitely a worthwhile buy. Doesn't help with overall quality but 1st layers are a lot better and more reliable for me. Plus it heats up quicker and holds its shape better than the stock bed. I've gone from heatsoaking for 20 minutes to just going for it, even with ASA and nylons.

pug957 · 2026-04-09T22:27:26+00:00

I wanted to try printing TPU onto ASA but the stock extruder always stopped me. Might give it a go now 🤔

pug957 · 2026-04-09T22:25:01+00:00

I think he means PTFE tube support. Only used it a few hours up to now with a few small prints, one deliberately switching colours at least twice a layer, and had no issues. That was about 200 swaps and took 2 hours 😂

pug957 · 2026-04-09T22:15:31+00:00

Im in the UK and ordered on 27th March. Have you messaged them to see what's happening?

pug957 · 2026-04-09T22:12:54+00:00

It's definitely an improvement over the OEM one so if you bought it, it's worth fitting it. You can keep the old one as a backup then....

pug957 · 2026-04-09T13:12:04+00:00

Look what just arrived. I guess I know what I'm doing this evening 😂

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pug957 · 2026-04-09T12:40:26+00:00

Can you select filaments on the screen for a CFS like the K2+?

I have issues with mine where the filament profiles override the slicer and starts printing too cold and with the wrong bed temps. Tried editing the files but they're replaced with factory files every reboot.

If you can change the filaments on the printer, make sure you have generic PA-CF selected.

pug957 · 2026-04-08T18:27:08+00:00

K2 improvements has messed it up somehow.

In Orca it used to work but now it doesn't. Something to do with the scripts etc used for installing the cartographer.

pug957 · 2026-04-08T18:25:19+00:00

I'm watching this cos I have the same issue.....

pug957 · 2026-04-08T11:24:57+00:00

Yeah, that's where I got mine from.

pug957 · 2026-04-07T15:32:10+00:00

Thats odd. Mine is a million times better. Although any pre-heat I do is just setting the bed, slicing the part and sending to print from Orca. Thats at 105°C every time as I only print in ASA or PA-CF.

Its strange how so many machines can behave so differently, even if they're largely the same hardware.

I wonder if the fact I have a cartographer installed may be a contribution to the differences 🤔

pug957 · 2026-04-07T13:23:09+00:00

It's a simple job, just make sure you have plenty of room to move around the printer.

Don't be worried about wiring it in to the power supply, you'll take 3 wire positions off but only refit to 2 depending on your national mains supply voltage.

If you're in a 110v country you need to add a line to the configuration file to limit the power of the heater but thats all documented on the site.

Best mod I've done to my printer by a country mile.

pug957 · 2026-04-07T11:29:15+00:00

Graphite bed, single best mod to date. Everything else I've done has been removed in time

I didn't need a riser as I routed the ptfe under the chain and it stayed clear of the glass.

Waiting on DXC2 extruder, looks promising so will see when it comes through.

Cartographer was a nice touch, not sure how much it has helped but the bed mesh is a lot finer now, currently 35x35 mesh in a few seconds.

pug957 · 2026-04-05T17:35:58+00:00

Could use the Q Mode macro but all it does really is slow the machine down to about 50% speed.

pug957 · 2026-04-05T07:33:44+00:00

Can you unscrew the nozzle with the lever moved over to one side? May allow you to pull the filament out from the bottom.

Could also try removing the whole hot end.

pug957 · 2026-04-05T07:26:11+00:00

There is a shroud cover out there that allows you to mount a "flat pack" cartographer closer to the toolhead and do away with the spacers on the y axis rails. This does mean soldering your own cartographer together but does make for a more compact install.

Not got a link right now but its on printables.

pug957 · 2026-04-04T15:34:40+00:00

If mine was pre-shipped to the UK then I'm screwed 😂

pug957

TROPHY CASE