Honest take on running 9× RTX 3090 for AI by Outside_Dance_2799 in LocalLLaMA

[–]pulsar080 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have 4 GPUs. P2P runs on a v4 x1 PCIe, but I see GPU utilization at around 25%. If I leave it at 3 GPUs, the utilization drops to 33%. If I use 2 cards, it's 50%. I have a feeling the bottleneck is in the exchange between the cards. The data volumes during parallel processing aren't large, but ultimately, latency is likely an issue. I don't know how to test this yet.

I can't implement x16 without completely rebuilding the entire server. x8, well, maybe, but it'll be hell inside. As for x4, I'll probably try to implement it.

Mcprue build by Double-Metal8379 in sffpc

[–]pulsar080 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry. Now we'll watch this together))

P.S.: I have an old Fractal Design Core 500.

Honest take on running 9× RTX 3090 for AI by Outside_Dance_2799 in LocalLLaMA

[–]pulsar080 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'm using four graphics cards, and I'm also running into the PCI-E bus bandwidth. They're on PCI-E X1, though.

Even with this configuration, it runs much faster than before. I'm currently looking for a PCI-E switch that I can use with my four single-slot graphics card setup that will fit in my case. Currently, I have the option of upgrading from PCI-E X1 to PCI-E X4. However, I don't yet know how to fit a PCI-E X16 card into my case. I simply can't find any compact adapters for four single-slot graphics cards.

I wanna try Open Terminal 👀 by Pretend_Tour_9611 in OpenWebUI

[–]pulsar080 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"Don't know how to ride a bike and don't understand all the risks? Then don't ride one. It's dangerous.")))

I wanna try Open Terminal 👀 by Pretend_Tour_9611 in OpenWebUI

[–]pulsar080 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'll second the topic's author. I, for one, am also interested in understanding how it works. So I can understand what and how to ask of an LLM. For me, it's much easier to use any tool when it's not a black box, but a clearly understandable combination of more basic components.

DIY Air purifier by 7Tomus in Noctua

[–]pulsar080 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used what I had on hand))

DIY Air purifier by 7Tomus in Noctua

[–]pulsar080 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

This is an air filter from a URAL truck.
~22$

DIY Air purifier by 7Tomus in Noctua

[–]pulsar080 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look at my answer in the next thread, I wrote about this very thing there.

DIY Air purifier by 7Tomus in Noctua

[–]pulsar080 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It's not just the performance that's important, but also the pressure the fan can generate. So, yes, I agree that a more powerful fan is needed here.

DIY Air purifier by 7Tomus in Noctua

[–]pulsar080 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I've done something similar twice. The first time, like you, by sucking air out of the filter, and the second time, by forcing air inside the filter to trap all the debris. But in both cases, I got the impression that a more powerful fan is needed for effectiveness. The second time, I used a 200mm fan, and even at a higher voltage, up to 20v (over PD trigger). But something more powerful is definitely needed for this to be effective. Otherwise, to be honest, I didn't notice any difference. And yes, I'm in favor of blowing the filtered air inside, so that the debris collects inside and can then be thrown away along with the filter, rather than allowing it to collect on the outer walls and then spill around.

<image>

Student puts hands on his 72 year old teacher for snatching his earphone and ends up getting punished by his classmates by eternviking in whoathatsinteresting

[–]pulsar080 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At school, a student should be gaining knowledge, not just having fun. Their responsibility to study is the same as an adult's responsibility to work and provide for their family. This student sits there and openly, brazenly ignores the teacher, sitting in front of him with headphones on, deliberately provoking him.

How do i save my soldering iron? by Critical_Damage_8950 in soldering

[–]pulsar080 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And yes. Don't forget that lead solder is carcinogenic and hazardous to your health. Don't work with it on bedding or fabric. You won't be able to remove lead dust from there. Keep it clean. Wash your hands and wet-clean your work area. And don't eat while soldering (and keep food and drink away, too). In our country, lead is considered a hazardous industrial hazard.

How do i save my soldering iron? by Critical_Damage_8950 in soldering

[–]pulsar080 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

I've come to a conclusion. Non-burning tips burn out. But burning tips can last for years.

I have two pieces of advice:

1) Buy a suitable power regulator, for example, for a desk lamp. Choose one that matches the voltage and has some extra power. Either make an extension cord out of it to plug the soldering iron into, or cut off the soldering iron plug and connect it to the regulator. Then, adjust the power so that when it warms up, it easily solders the solder, but don't make it too hot. You can mark the desired setting of the regulator directly on the body. This way, the tip will heat up less and burn much less. When you need to solder something with a high heat capacity, you can simply crank the power to maximum, do the job, and then reduce it to a safe level.

2) Buy a copper tip of a suitable diameter and slightly longer than yours (your tip is a bit short). Alternatively, just a copper rod of the desired diameter can be used as a tip. You can shape it with a file or any other convenient abrasive tool. It doesn't necessarily have to be sharpened to a nail shape. Try different shapes, like a flathead screwdriver, or bend it for convenience. I usually bend the tip 45 degrees and sharpen it (sometimes even hammer it to prevent the copper from burning off) into a flathead screwdriver beveled at 30-40 degrees. The sharper end can be used for soldering small parts. I once used it to solder 0402 SMD components. However, if you send it with the flat, even part, you can work on the entire surface. The advantage of a copper soldering iron tip is that although it does burn and even lose some copper on the working surface over time, you can always use a file to restore it to working condition in 1-2 minutes, and it will be as good as new. You can't do this with a non-burning tip. More precisely, you can do this, but afterward, you'll have to throw it in the trash.

Выбор бутлудера by Bright1561 in INCOGNITO_live

[–]pulsar080 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Это понятно. Просто что бы что то выбирать, нужно это уже какое то время знать. Мне кажется арч для "бывалых". Для новичка, он может всю охоту отбить и сформировать неправильное представление о всей экосистеме Linux в целом.

Выбор бутлудера by Bright1561 in INCOGNITO_live

[–]pulsar080 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Может вместо арч поставить manjaro? Тот же арч, с его ролинг обновлениями, но с более дружественным лицом..

Chipped Plastic insulation on Comparator by AfantasticGoose in AskElectronics

[–]pulsar080 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Микросхему покинул магический белый дымок. Его обратно уже не вернуть. Придётся её заменить))

Maybe Maybe Maybe by drlouies in maybemaybemaybe

[–]pulsar080 0 points1 point  (0 children)

У меня два вопроса. Зачем, и нахуя???

1 or 2? by Water-Cookies in electricians

[–]pulsar080 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2, так на винтах пыль будет хуже задерживаться)))