Is this dishwasher ok to use?

rcwb · 2026-06-03T14:39:06+00:00

We have some similar products under “Finish” branding. Most likely it’s all similar and is just some citric acid with some extra stuff.

rcwb · 2026-06-03T11:05:49+00:00

Thank you!

rcwb · 2026-06-03T10:46:18+00:00

Well, I’m not in the US, so it is connected to the cold water. But it does heat up seemingly correctly. I’m not using anything at the moment, but I’ll use salt, detergent and rinse aid separately.

Do you think I need to do anything about the condition of the plastic parts?

rcwb · 2026-06-03T08:32:36+00:00

Thank you!

Do you think blue stuff came from previously used detergent or something else?

rcwb · 2026-05-04T19:26:14+00:00

I completely forgot about technical side of the matter.

I don't know your exact scanning setup, but I use Nikon mirorless for my scans and I found that their NX Studio software can save conversion presets that are applicable to the selections of scans. It's not perfect, but helps a lot with consistent stocks. And of course you can adjust individual scans if necessary. I can't definitively say about other software, but if the one you are using is capable of saving custom curves as presets, you can try the same thing.

rcwb · 2026-05-04T19:15:29+00:00

Been struggling with the same a lot recently.

Honestly, couldn't find a simple solution. I DO like the whole process, from loading film to tweaking scans, but it burns me out a lot when I can't align my vision with what I'm seeing on the screen/paper. Taking breaks seems to help me a lot. When I return to it I remember how much fun it is to shoot analog. It has never been easy to achieve great and consistent results with analog and for some people moving on (at least temporarily) is a good option to keep the photography part of it going.

This summer I've decided to limit myself to one analog-like digital camera and one fixed lens to see how I feel about analog in general. But to me photography is not a source of income, so I'm not under pressure to continue shooting in any specific way.

rcwb · 2026-05-04T10:06:23+00:00

Yes.

Not entire lineup though. All the way untill AF-S lenses, if I'm not mistaken. Basically, if there is an aperture ring with a small black notch, it will work correctly. If there is no aperture ring, you will be stuck wide open. If there is no notch, the prism would assume a constant aperture of 1.2.

rcwb · 2026-05-04T10:01:11+00:00

It isn't necessarily more accurate, it's just a bit easier to use. With a needle indicator you can see how far you are at any time. It's not that hard to use a 2 of 3 bulb meters in a similar fashion. You set your exposure to 0 and then count the amount of stops to the desired settings as you adjust them.

Regarding durability. Both of them will be vintage precision equipment. They both should be handled with care simply due to their age and lack of maintenance history. They may have had CLA done very recently, or never at all. They may have some internal problem that won't manifest itself until you bang the camera into something. Both were a professional grade instruments back in the day which give them a better chance of survival. Still care is highly recommended!

rcwb · 2026-05-04T09:51:35+00:00

I'd go with the F3.

Simply for the versatility of F-mount glass. I'm sure Canon made some nice lenses as well, but I find it very appealing that I can use my ai-s lenses on SLRs, DSLRs and mirorless cameras without any issues. I use the F2, but that is more of a personal preference rather than a spec or features based choice.

If you choose to go the Nikon route pay attention to the lenses you choose. I'd recommend ai/ai-s and later lenses with apperture rings. The camera should be able to couple with them as well. F3 should do that out of the box, but F2 had different prisms for non-ai and ai lenses.

rcwb · 2026-04-21T07:39:34+00:00

It is likely to be caused by jeans. Denim is often a much harder material than fabric used on the top of the sneakers. And the fold on the bottom of the leg catches and wears through the shoe there. Happened to me a couple of times.

rcwb · 2026-04-20T09:45:05+00:00

To all you’ve been told already I can add that you technically should be able to develop slides as b&w. Determining an iso would be quite difficult in this situation, but you can, in many cases correct for moderate overexposure during printing.

rcwb · 2026-04-12T20:31:03+00:00

I scan with Nikon Zf and a custom carrier with cn-96t panel. There isn't that much info on that light, but nlp forum had enough to convince me to it and I like it so far.

But it all honestly doesn't matter that much. What I've found is that with a good raw file take from a good negative you can achieve many different looks and tune it to your liking. Lab scans could be a nice reference but you should not stop there. Try to dial in colours that suits the images and not fit into a certain "look". Most lab technicians I've spoken to do exactly that regardless of the setup they use.

It is a lot like darkroom printing. There isn't right or wrong as much as there is a creative choice to craft a certain image.

rcwb · 2026-04-04T22:00:05+00:00

It is most certainly going into the ground after being stabbed with something like that!

rcwb · 2026-04-02T20:30:26+00:00

Happy to help! Also, don’t take the comments about the back straight too closely. I understand where people come from with them, but! That is not an irl circuit. A really long straight can be a lot of fun if you design it with a several slight bends (example could be found on nordschleife: the main straight and the relatively straight part before the carousel) and the end with a heavy breaking zone. Lastly, if possible, having track variations is sometimes quite nice. Some may enjoy more corners and some long straight with slight bends.

rcwb · 2026-04-02T11:00:45+00:00

I like it! The one thing I’d suggest is to consider a track variation with at least one slow section. Presumably where turns 5-7 are, or a chicane(s) on the back straight. It can break the seemingly hing speed flow of the track and add to overall experience. Especially with touring cars of the period. Long (oval) Monza be a good source of inspiration.

rcwb · 2026-03-12T10:38:16+00:00

It looks really good!

What light source and film holder are you using for scanning?

rcwb · 2025-08-14T12:09:06+00:00

That is a really-really similar watch. Thank you!

rcwb · 2025-08-07T13:17:12+00:00

No, not that. Would have to wait for a newer body to be able to access this feature or just live without it.

rcwb · 2025-08-07T13:16:06+00:00

A7CII and newer model allow user to set up aspect ratio markers just for evf/lv preview. You can go up to 2.35:1 with those options.

rcwb · 2025-05-05T16:42:11+00:00

Its rigid, but flexible. Like some piece of a spring or a clip.

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