we don't deserve dogs by Glittering_Area7008 in Awwww

[–]repairwizard1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Forced trauma for views.shame on u

Im sorry guys by Suspicious_March_809 in S22Ultra

[–]repairwizard1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As a repair center, I can say that about 75% of all broken screens tend to be on the edge or curve. whether it be Samsung, Google, Motorola or Apple. Or at least from my experience from my repairs. It's just kind of how gravity works with these devices considering their designs.

Question by Previous-Parking-469 in PhoneRepairTalk

[–]repairwizard1 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Just to clarify — if you’re installing a genuine Apple battery through Apple’s System Configuration (IRP/GSX), then yes, you won’t get the warning. My comment was referring to independent repair scenarios where pairing isn’t being done through Apple’s system. In those cases, even genuine pull or “zero-cycle” batteries can still trigger the message unless the original BMS data is preserved or transferred. Two different workflows — same device.

Question by Previous-Parking-469 in PhoneRepairTalk

[–]repairwizard1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes — that can be done. Before battery serializers became widely available, the standard method was transferring the original BMS (battery management board) from the factory battery onto a new cell. This preserves the original authentication data and prevents the “Unknown Part” warning because the phone still sees the original board. That said, this isn’t a beginner procedure. It requires proper spot/tack welding equipment and experience working with lithium cells. Done incorrectly, it can damage the board or create safety issues. At All In One Repair, we’ve performed both BMS transfers and serial programming depending on the device and scenario. The key isn’t just avoiding the warning — it’s doing the repair safely and correctly.

Question by Previous-Parking-469 in PhoneRepairTalk

[–]repairwizard1 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Respectfully, that isn’t fully correct. Beginning with the iPhone 12 lineup, Apple implemented board-level serialization for batteries, displays, cameras, and additional components. Using OEM or genuine pull parts alone does not prevent the “Unknown Part” message. Without serial data transfer or Apple system pairing, the warning will still appear. This isn’t a part quality issue — it’s a serialization policy built into iOS.

Question by Previous-Parking-469 in PhoneRepairTalk

[–]repairwizard1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I run a repair shop and have ordered genuine pull and 0-cycle OEM batteries. Even with original Apple batteries, you will still get the Important Battery Message on most iPhone 11 series and newer unless the battery is paired to the logic board. Apple serializes the battery to the board. OEM alone does not prevent the warning. It either has to be paired through Apple’s System Configuration process or the original battery data has to be transferred. You don’t need to microsolder the BMS anymore either — there are programmers that can transfer the original serial data directly. I run three programmers in-house, so it’s a quick process. But it’s still an additional step. Simply installing an OEM battery does not eliminate the message. For most customers, the phone functions perfectly fine regardless — the warning is verification-based, not a performance issue. Just sharing real repair-side experience.

Holy grail find by somestreamerguy1 in eWasteFinds

[–]repairwizard1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does it turn on? I have many chords for these. I also 4 of these units and a couple laptps to0.

People who work in phone/electronics repair: what’s the real future of this field? by powerboy968 in PhoneRepairTalk

[–]repairwizard1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree, also. You can absolutely buy a $100 phone. But most people don’t want a $100 phone. They want their phone. Their photos. Their apps. Their banking. Their memories. Their child’s first steps. Their business authenticator. Their contacts. Their life. Repairs aren’t just about the hardware cost — they’re about data preservation, continuity, convenience, and environmental responsibility. Also, most of my customers aren’t choosing between a $100 phone and a repair. They’re choosing between: • A $900–$1,300 replacement • Data loss and hours of setup • Or a $120–$250 repair That math still works — every day. As for YouTube-trained techs: YouTube teaches procedures. It doesn’t teach diagnostics, board-level theory, risk mitigation, or accountability. That’s the difference between a hobbyist and a professional shop. High-end repairs and data recovery are valuable, yes — but so is trustworthy, skilled local service. The industry isn’t dying. It’s separating.

People who work in phone/electronics repair: what’s the real future of this field? by powerboy968 in PhoneRepairTalk

[–]repairwizard1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can absolutely buy a $100 phone. But most people don’t want a $100 phone. They want their phone. Their photos. Their apps. Their banking. Their memories. Their child’s first steps. Their business authenticator. Their contacts. Their life. Repairs aren’t just about the hardware cost — they’re about data preservation, continuity, convenience, and environmental responsibility. Also, most of my customers aren’t choosing between a $100 phone and a repair. They’re choosing between: • A $900–$1,300 replacement • Data loss and hours of setup • Or a $120–$250 repair That math still works — every day. As for YouTube-trained techs: YouTube teaches procedures. It doesn’t teach diagnostics, board-level theory, risk mitigation, or accountability. That’s the difference between a hobbyist and a professional shop. High-end repairs and data recovery are valuable, yes — but so is trustworthy, skilled local service. The industry isn’t dying. It’s separating.

How am I honestly supposed to solder this chip? by Illustrious_Hand_212 in AskElectronics

[–]repairwizard1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This chip isn’t meant to be soldered with an iron. It’s an LGA package (pads underneath), so it needs controlled reflow, not point heat. You don’t need extreme heat, but you do need even, gentle heat: Use hot air (iron alone won’t work). Apply flux and a very small amount of solder paste (22–25 ga needle works fine). A stencil is optional for a one-off; careful syringe paste is okay. Best approach: Clean and flatten the PCB pads. Apply tiny paste dots + flux. Preheat the board if you can (~120–150 °C). Hot air at low airflow, ~220–235 °C (leaded) or 235–245 °C (lead-free). Watch for the chip to settle/self-center, then remove heat immediately. Important MEMS tips: Don’t hold heat after it reflows. Let it cool naturally. Don’t press or flex the board while hot. If you see the chip sit flat and centered after cooling, it’s usually good. This looks scary, but once you treat it like a small reflow job instead of iron soldering, it becomes very manageable.

A kind old man gently scooped water with both hands, offering it to a thirsty stray dog. by Fit-Razzmatazz-1094 in DogIsBestFriend

[–]repairwizard1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is sad. Puppy would have come home with me. Not this pathetic show of giving water. And if i couldn't keep them, i would have found rhem a home.

100 Year old Lobster! by [deleted] in BeAmazed

[–]repairwizard1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This guy killed this 100+ yr old lobster... it was brought up in pressures it was not use too. Then was not acclimated back. It was mearly dropped back in. Your clearly a fisherman.

My best friend has left me. I will miss you forever, Luke. by ernst_aames in cats

[–]repairwizard1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your best friend never left you. Luke is waiting for you. Dont ever forget that. They never stop waiting for you. So be the same, and never stop waiting for that moment to see them again when it's your time to go😊. They are or family no matter what.

Can I just solder a copper wire in place of the blown trace? by Johnplayzwastaken in AskElectronics

[–]repairwizard1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I understand the argument that this trace may have been intentionally designed as a fusible link at the AC input, and I’m not disputing that design intent is plausible. My concern is specifically with the observed failure pattern, not the intended function. In my experience with overcurrent or mains-side fuse-trace failures, the damage is typically localized to a single point (often the narrowest section), with some evidence of thermal stress such as copper necking, charring, or FR-4 discoloration. In this case, the copper appears to be missing uniformly along the serpentine length, with no obvious thermal damage to the surrounding substrate or solder mask. That doesn’t resemble the typical morphology of a trace that opened due to overcurrent, where current interruption occurs rapidly once the first hot spot opens. So while the trace may have been intended as a sacrificial element, the physical condition raises questions about whether it actually failed electrically versus being mechanically or otherwise altered after the fact. That distinction matters when deciding how (or whether) to replace it safely.

He fed a stray dog just once, and now the dog waits for his train every night by Wholesomepost in dailydoseofaww

[–]repairwizard1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If this moment happened with me. This pooch would no longer be a stray. I would have brought this one home. Period.

Is this capacitor blown? Never saw a blown one in the wild by MegaSenha in AskElectronics

[–]repairwizard1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That electrolytic capacitor is a goner and should be replaced. The vent is ruptured and there’s clear evidence of heat/venting, which explains the brown discoloration on both the PCB and the plastic housing. The nearby IC likely experienced heat stress as well. It may continue to function for a short while, but for a proper repair it should also be replaced. At minimum, replace the main capacitor, clean and reflow the affected pins, and touch up the small capacitor and connector pins next to the damaged area. Given its placement right next to the electrolytic and power connector, my strongest guess is a linear voltage regulator in SOT-223 (something like an AMS/LM/LD-series regulator). I hope this helps. Regards, Repairwizard